v8toy

yeah first is one of my single cab all shiny and second is of my dually next to a 2'' lifted triton others are of the 1uzfe v8 and the other is the snakeracing kit the singlecab cocking a wheel

mines in got 2 12'' subs in a twin box with the 2 amps screwed to the back of the box were u can see them and they stay cool enough they then slide between the wheelarches in the boot and face out good sound not rattles once i fixed the no. plate rattle lol and looks the part too and still have plenty of room for the shoppin and eskys/motox gearbag

woohoo telstra sponsered lets milk that one properly lol me and the missus wanna get to brissy shes in the army so we wanna get posted there then we can hit lmp and all the other awesome areas. we also race quads so thats bigger over there. i got a 1990 singlecab lux originally had the 22r petty in her and 5 speed but turfed all that and put a vp v6 and t700 engin/box combo plenty of power and awesome offroad but still the stinky old pushrod and castiron block so i didnt like it justy typical holden problems all the time. its got 6'' lift with 33's i made the 2'' extended shackles and 2'' body lift but bought and installed springs and steering gear myself and tyhen the useall **** factor like 6 big spotties uhf's and stereo gear etc the others a 1993 dualcab lux when i got it it was dead stock apart from white wheels and highway tyres the guy nearly died when i took it back to him with the 6 '' outa the single cab and all the lights etc lol he asked if i was gonna treat it nice and i said yes lol (toyota v8 is treatin it nice i reckon) this has the v8, prado 5 speed snake racing lift and same **** factor as the other with the a 3'' exhaust giving some note hehe. pm me or anything if u need some help/advise on these beut trucks hopefully soon ill have heaps of spares for comps (oneday)

u might just have to hunt around to find someone that'll do it places like tjm and arb etc only like fitting there kits and dont go to anything to extreme either ya best bet is prob a small suspension place maybe but depending were u live snakeracing do the installs and places like superior engineering (www.superiorengineerig.com.au) there the hardcore guys i love lookin at those sites especially snakes site i think i got about 6 or so windscreen stickers now between the 2 luxs but i dont think thats a bad thing rite lol p.s. if i was in qld mate id give ya hand but then again if we could afford the fone bill id be able to tell ya everything over the fone lol

haha trust me mate if u name a bolt i could tell u the length, type and what it holds on i have been jammed in a hilux engine bay so many times its not funny lol i do no the headlight wirng colours but cant think of them at this time as i have totally rewired my engine bay

not sure if u wanna know guys but heres a quick rundown on spottie wiring done heaps on my luxes got 6 lightforce 240 blitzes on bothe u could say it pumps out some light lol but here it is from dipping wire on headlight (positive its the top wire on the 3 pin plug) to either no. 85 or 86 on the relay doesnt matter 87 on relay goes to spotties if using a five pin relay use one for each light and if 4 pin relay tap in to one pin for two lights 30 on relay is 12v positive from either alternator or prefered battery remembering to run a waterproof fuse in line to this and either the 85 or 86 which ever is left to the switch then outa the switch to earth this enables u too isolate spotties and just use factory lighting or if u put it from realy straight to ground/body spotties will work whenever highbeam is selected (the authorites prefer a switch lol) i prefer to run a wire for earthing rite from the spotties to the battery just to make sure it works properly the drawing is a bit primitive but it looks similiar to a hilux engine bay haha

this is the kit i got X FLEX Pro Rock Stage 3 Click to enlarge The new "X FLEX" Pro Rock Stage 3 kit is the ultimate in out of the box components. If your wanting the the best that can be fitted to your solid axle Hilux this is the kit for you. Never before have all our components been put into 1 kit that will give you the ultimate off road vehicle. This kit will allow the fitting of 35 x 12.5 tyres and give the best in articulation and still allow on road driveability. 2 x front X Flex springs, 2 x rear X Flex springs, X Flex rubber bush kit, Front and rear braided brake line kit, X Flex extended greasable shackles, inverted rear shock kit, front shock hoops, 4 x Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks, 1 x Snake Racing rear wrap bar. 50mm dropped front X member, X over steering arms, rock rods, tie rod ends, new knuckle studs, X over pitman arm, steering shaft extension, IFS steering box fit up kit. Note - Supply of IFS steering box and longer front tailshaft will be required to complete and install this kit. The fitting of a 50mm body lift will be required to run 35x12.5" tyres. Note - The fitting of this kit may require other components to be installed on trucks with engine conversion or other previous conversions / modifications. Product Code: HLXFLEXPR3 RRP inc. GST: $5,500.00 AND U COULD GET SOMETHIN LIKE THIS DEPENDIN HOW MUCH U WANNA SPEND X Flex Econo Stage 5 Click to enlarge The Stage 5 Econo kit is a perfect way to get you lifted 50mm and get your solid axle hilux / 4 runner flexing. Front and rear extended greasable shackles, front tailshaft spacer, adjustable torque rod and adjustable dropped drag, rubber X Flex bush kit and front and rear braided brake line kit & front and rear adjustable Rancho 9000 Shocks make this the perfect way to finish of the suspension to your stock or lifted springs. Note - When ordering online 1 x purchase = front and rear ext shackles, adj torque rod, 25mm front tailshaft spacer with fitting hardware, dropped drag link, X flex bush kit, front and rear braided brake line kit and Front and rear Rancho 9000 Shocks Product Code: RRP inc. GST: $2,130.00 Go on this website mate www.snakeracing.com.au its pretty much straight forward to get were u want but make sure u click on solid axle hilux instead of ifs hilux (solid axle being the front axle being the same type as the back one and not in a wishbone setup) but there is heaps on this site and if u ring rhino or email him he is a great help and can almost tell u what u will need for your application and u can always make your own kit

hey man u said u were savin for the 4inch ifs lift i thought ours was a solid axle lux and i didnt think they made them in ifs in 91 in the dualcab and ute form

go on www.snakeracing.com.au stie and they have steering shaft extensions on there for under a 100 bucks i think got it on mine for a 2 inch lift u might also have to alter were the shaft enters thru the firewll a bit u can lift a hilux up too 4 " if u want just gotta do the appropriate mods with it but u will need a new uni joint and also check the one under the dash as well for damage the uni under the dash has about 2" of adjustment in it so undo that bolt and slide steering shaft up to fit new extension in down at steering box then tighten it al up and test but make sure u mod the firewall section first otherwise it will jujst bre again

yeah man they fit easy i got 6x9's in my doors of my single cab and 6'' splits in my dualcab they go down on the bottom left (drivers door) and bottom right (passenger door) if u pull the door skin off theres allready half the hole there so it just takes a bit of work with either a grinder or jigsaw or something to finish it of and the best part is the window doesn get in the way when its down, then cut the hole in the door trim, i drilled a 6mm hole in the inner door jams for the wiring and put sealed convuluted tubing and a couple of gromments to make it look neat and all done

lift kits cost as much as want to allow my six inch one i did on the cheap thru repco i just removed load carrying leaves to let in flex more in the rear just gotta watch the grip factor turning the whole axle around (axle wrap) but u should be right with standard engine. my 10" thru snake racing cost me $6000 to my door and is a wheel machined and put together package but that kit is custom front crossmember and cross over steering using a ifs model steering box it also relocates the rear shocks on one side of the axle for improved smoothness of articulation. the only way around stopping the tyres from rubbing on the front mudflaps is to get axle relocation plates from snake racing which repositon the axle forward 1" or 1.5" depending which way u put them i put mine the furtherest forward for when 35's are bolted to itas well as that u should get a dropped drag link as well for your steering it puts all steering adjustments back to standard position so u have a new range for spoke position adjustment ( relation of wheels to steering wheel) other than that u can get away with most things i would also reccommend puting in caster wedges as well to get the front axle rotated back to factory specs to stop wheel wobble etc unless your willing to do things and modify things yourself i would recommend buying a lift kit to suit your needs from a place like snake racing etc 33's will fit easily with a 3'' body lift u generally only need a 2'' lift to get them in I made my own extended shackles and modified my leaf packs, steering rods etc and brake line mounts depends how much u wanna get involved and how bigga jack u got to lift the sucker of the ground im always trying to get a higher lifting floorjack.

its really simple hey the other thing i thought off was get some high tensile washes as well from the bolt joint cause mine didnt come with washers (yours might have) and the original hilux ones are pressed on on one end u can get them of by smashin them of in a vise. good luck mate post some pics of it in the process will look good

done heaps mate but mainly 2 inch ones but also got a 6'' lift in a 90 model single cab and a 10 inch in a 93 dual cab but firstly to townace u do a body lift to clear bigger tyres like 35's and even 33's also if u look at a lux the sills sit close to level with the bottom of the chassis rails it gets them up so u can fit rocksliders etc without them getting to caught up and u also do it CAUSE U CAN OK but dj all u gotta look out 4 is the wiring coming outa the back off the cab (single cab i take it according to ya profile pic) the the biggest is the radiator hoses length uselly u can get away with just loosining the clamps on them and giving them 10mm each end once i do that u gotta pull the lower section of the radiator shroud its only like 3 12mm head bolts u can modiy it and refit it or just leave it of thats what i do then the mud and crap falls out easier. the next thing is the gear levers from memory u have more trouble with the 4wd lever but just get in there with a grinder or something and neatly cut it away then it may just need some silicon to seal it right. and lastly is the steering column under the dash theres a uni joint like at the steering joint undo that bolt and it has heaps of adjustment not sure if it will cover a 3'' but try anyway but if that fails snake racing sell steering shaft extensions and they fit really good. then u got the bullbar (if fitted to lift) i dont do it with a 2'' lift but i would do it with a 3'' thats prob the most involved thing to lift but not hard if u are lifting the tray as well u just got things like the fuel filler mounting however the tray manufacturers have fitted it cant think of much else with it they are prob the most simpilist body to lift just keep ya eyes open when doing it and look in every spot but i never had any other trouble with this mod good luck yell out if u need any more info im kinda mad on luxes im fitted a 1uz-fe into the dualcab at the mo so know them like the back off my hand

agreed forced inducion, big intake or one that suits, major exhaust AND manifold mods (intake and exhaust) then u'll be lookin at head work such as cleanin up the intake/exhaust then maybe even bottom end work to justify chipping it or replacing the ecu which could be a head *$#* with bcm's etc but possible u would have to do too much for the chip to be worthwhile (if replacable) im sure toyota would have there crap sorted with the vvti etc. would be interesting to see a bombed v6 though i think i'll stick to the minor zorst and wheel/suspension mods 4 now hehe

I recently drove from Darwin to Perth with the ORIGINAL springs fitted, cargo of one passenger and around 120kg of luggage in the boot and on the rear seat. The road was not all that rough but the odd dip in the road still caused it to scrub and it DID wear a hole through both rear inner gaurds. I have some rub marks on the front inners too (The tyres where fine). I think any size rim (18, 19, 20 etc) will have similar problems with a 245 or larger tyre fitted. so yours still rubbed even at standard height i just did that same drive but from perth to darwin via gero etc andwith my trailer on and loaded to hilt in the boot and back seat and only got srubbing coming on and off the bridges and some of the sharper flood ways i found even on the road between kunnunara and katherine (which i reckon was the worst stretch) it didnt do it that much and defiantly hasnt worn a hole in the guards

haha brother from another mother havent heard that for awhile lol i have to be hammering mine reasonbly hard thru some dips to get it to scrub without a load in it at all but it will do it but van guaranty it with my trailer on but mind u my trailer holds 3 atvs in it and unloaded weight is around the 850-900 kg mark but thats to be expected. on the other hand mine hasnt at all worn a hole thru the guards in fact its hardly made an impression at all just the odd bit of that furry crap hangin about but not noticable unless u stick ya head there. have u had all the camber etc reset just to be sure i got mine checked the other day as well as toe in/out and it was fine but the front left had +3 degrees on it the wheel joint i got it done last time didnt tighten the pedders camber bolt to right torque which is 125ft/lbs therefore rotating and flogging it out but its good now i couldnt tell u what offset my wheels are etc all i know is they dont scrub and the cars drives beutiful. but i'd do the easy things first b4 cutting springs, changing struts and even slammin the old ones back in id wouldnt think it should scrub that much.

mines got 18's and it scrubs aswell with lowered pedders srings the rolling diameter of the wheel/tyre combo is same as standard and it only scrubs with bumps and dips like u say and mainly when my bike trailer is hooked on but good on general driving at the end of the day its one of those things u get when u modify a car and the only fix is more mods yippe lol

i drove mine from kunnunara in wa to timber creek and the fuel gauge red way below empty and the distance to empty had said 0 for the last 10km's (still had another 15kms to drive) i thought i was gunna run outa juice in the middle of the kimberly when i refueled at timber creek i took on 63l's to the top of the filler before that i was gettin no more than 50l's to the filler dont know how much was left but i reckon another couple of kays and she woulda stopped. It also killed the wallet at nearly 2 bucks a litre it was quite pricey ill post a pick of the dash soon showing my ittle dilema lol

pretty sure they are either 45amp or 60amp i think the petrol model has the 45 amp one as i changed mine 2 a 120amp and from memory my 93 deisel lux has a 60amper

i'm probally the only guy that hasnt had any big warranty probs with my sx6 just going in for the cup holders for the 3rd time they havent been replaced yet they just keep lubing the gears etc underneath this time they need to be replaced. mine was a demo done 4400km's when i bought it on 8th jan 08 its now april and its done 15,000kms of kimberly and nt roads plus headin done motox track access roads not a problem at all no squeaks, rattles, clunks, clicks, leaf noises, leaks etc its lowered 42mm, staino rear mufflers and 18's subs and amps and still works perfect. the other prob i had is when i took delivery of the car they couldnt find the manuals and spare keys i took the car anyway promising me the manuals would be found/replaced no probs but if wanted to be nasty its illegal for them to let me take it without manuals for safety sakes but i was cool its now april 8th and just recieved replacement manuals in the mail after many phonecalls and also got a call saying the replacement keys had just turned up and will be sent asap. i feel sorry for ya blueaurionsx6 very unlucky owned a few toyotas now and same with my parents and not a problem unfair from the dealer obviously and toyota australia thought they'd be interested in keeping there good name intact but from me no queries.

has anyone checked their rear tyre pressures its a known fact that uneven pressures will cause it to steer of the road. Also check camber, if one front or rear wheel has negative camber and the other front or rear wheel has positive camber it could steer as well it would only have to be a little combined with tyre pressures and spoke position (relation of steering wheel to wheel direction). but i would also say i wouldnt bother taking it to the dealer take it to a good tyre joint and have them do it with a write up of the results etc and better yet watch them do it. yes its a little bit outa your pocket but these fellas do it day in day out and are much better at it (obviously). Ive had wheels fitted and lowered mine and had wheel alignments and camber adjustments to suit etc and mine steers spoton and never had a prob, bought mine on jan 8 08 its now done 15000km's and not a problem but not to say u guys are lyin or somethin but just a couple of things to consider i think

the best bet would be go and measure a 92 model like what angelo has seen and then measure yours and see where u r at i think the older luxs were a little to small for an easy swap like that unless it a 4-runner. I got a 93 dualcab 4x4 that i squeezed a 1uz-fe into without firewall mods but its tight for sure but works i also done a vn v6 in a 91 singlecab 4x4 and theres heaps of room in there but they are crap engines never would do it again

i got a mate thats done bout 3 or 4 of them 4 acouple of people cant tell u exactly which models but it can be done for sure ya best bet is to go onto the castlemaine rod shop website they'll give conversion parts 4 a range of celica models currently im putting one into a dualcab 4x4 hilux and have seen them in 2x4 hilux as well. Also go on the website www.lextreme.com they are pretty sure an nz based forum but there is endless conversions on there of the 1uz-fe and they helped me out in a million ways with mine

i know in wa its pretty much if u can turn the ignition key u can drive it my mate had an evo 2 lancer with cams, puter, exhaust and more boost the thing was insane he was on his p's, i had a hilux with v6 commo engine in it and that was fine and another mate had a gtr skyline with a little bit extra is it only wa thats like this