pinzvidz

There's many variables to why she couldn't retrieve your details - sometimes it can be their computer system (if they use Reynolds & Reynolds, gawd help you!), sometimes the vehicle might not be attached to the customer due to operator slackness, most service receptionists are as dumb as dawgsheet and know nothing about cars, let alone know what they're doing. No, travelling to 12K before having a 10K done won't void your warranty. There's quite a misconception that a warranty on a new vehicle can be easily voided. If you travel 50,000km and don't get your vehicle serviced, and the engine craps itself, then the claim for warranty repair on the engine won't be honoured. Your new car warranty still remains in place for everything else that's not affected by non-servicing.

No prob. The remotes for those are sealed, btw. You can probably try and bust it open if you need to replace the battery, don't know if they're soldered in or not? We always replace them for customers. How to program additional master key; All doors closed, insert existing master key, lock to on 5 times, 5th time keep it on, open and close drivers door 6 times, remove key, insert new key, switch to on, keep on for more than 60 seconds, remove key, open door to finish procedure. So get your genuine key, get it cut, follow the above and you're all done!

Not all phones will show signal strength. I would ask your dealer to replace the head unit - they'll need to order one from Fujitsu Ten for you. But the replacement head unit will be a refurbished one though...

Most dealers are pretty hopeless when it comes to websites and "contact us" or "make a booking" forms. I would ring and confirm. As for Express Maintenance, only a handful of dealers have this as they are required to become TSM level 2 compliant before they can offer the service. Really, it's just 2 techs on your car at once. A 10K service is only minor, so whether it's done Express Maintenance or not, it's only going to take a ½ hour or so to get done.

My post relates to Toyota Smart Entry/Smart Keys, not standard keys as such in your Camry. But now you've asked, the key you refer to is about $75 (plus cutting and programming) for a genuine master key. You MUST have an existing master key in order to program a new master key (black in colour). If your key is a sub key (grey), you cannot program any more keys, the immobiliser ECU and possibly engine ECU must be replaced and matched to new master keys. The remotes are about $35 each, and are quite easy to program (key on/off 3 times, key on, security light on, hold remote near glove box and press to program, plus any existing remotes).

You really need to provide more information first... Is it an Ascent? If so, it uses a standard master key and depending on model year, a Vision sourced - Toyota branded remote. Key is about $70 plus cutting, remote is about $35, plus programming. If it's a Conquest/Levin/Ultima/Sportivo, then it will use a (Fujitsu Ten sourced) combined Toyota master key/remote. These are the dear ones ($278 list, by memory) so by the time you add on mark-up, cutting and programming, yes, you'll be looking at around $400 if yours is other than an Ascent.

Mate, you'd be surprised what type of testing Toyota do, let alone most other manufacturers.

I reckon Toyota's VSC is way too intrusive, too safe if anything! It locks the counteracting wheel really hard in hard oversteer/understeer situations. I shat myself in a KX-R when trying it out on a good, slippery and wet LH bend, really lifted up the LHR of the vehicle (probably wheel off ground!)

By memory the filter on those "slap on the side" Tarago motors is up the front of the engine, near the accessory driveshaft.

Nah, we loved our ZZE-122R Ultima hatch, but the new Rolla just didn't appeal to us, espeically in the looks department. We might have considered one if they'd brought it out with VSC and either the 2.4 2AZ-FE or 3.5 2GR-FE. The 1.8 is just too gutless, even if Toyota have made a fancy new dual VVT-i 2ZR-FE (which btw, should have a LOT more power and torque). We went down the 3 door Golf GTI DSG path, and we haven't looked back! :D

Might've felt slower because of all the extra weight they've put on compared to the ZZE-122R. Again, an excellent price, enjoy when you get it.

Excellent price! Must be an 07 plate (or a demo?). Toyota are doing good incentives atm for dealers who sell off 07 stock. Actually, I think it's closer to Genki auto territory at that price. Those dealers don't deserve your business. Shop elsewhere if they don't offer you a test drive. I work for a dealer that has Toyota and Mazda franchises. Are you in Brissie by any chance? The Corolla is a bit bland and boring to drive, whereas the 2 has excellent handling and I feel it also has better performance in the auto, when compared to a Corolla auto. You need to find some dealers who will be kind enough to offer you a test drive, so you can decide which vehicle you like best. Good luck!

Two different classes of motor vehicle here... Mazda3 matches up with Corolla more than a 2. However, one thing to take into consideration is the Corolla doesn't come with stability control as an option - the 2 does. I reckon a Maxx or a Genki are both excellent value for money and still fall well and truly under the price for an Ascent auto (around $25K). The old 2 was average, the new one is brilliant all round, and that includes build quality.

Don't lose your smart keys, they cost a bloody fortune to replace... Smart Key transmitter: $405.60 Manual Key to slide into transmitter: $247.15 (yep, just for the separate key - a flat bit of metal with a plastic end) Manual Key cut to suit: $30.00 Programming/Coding: $50.00 So, $750 or so later... Toyota should be reamed for outrageous pricing on some of their parts. And whatever you do, don't lose both smart keys, otherwise you'll be up for many thousands! That includes replacing certification, ID and steering lock ECUs. Nasty!

Mate you want the blue coloured wire that is a part of the 20 pin connector that goes into the audio head unit.

Nice buy! Thank gawd you didn't spend your extra $$$ on a glorified Sportivo TuRD Aurion. This applies top all vehicles with trip computers, not just the Aurion. The range is, and always will be, just an estimate. I've seen too many boofheads who either come into work whinging because their vehicle had run out of fuel when the range still read 40km, or the ones who come in with the range reading zero and asking why it hasn't run out of fuel. The reason Toyota make the low fuel warning lamp (or LED) come on early, is to stop fuel pumps from being burnt out. It also covers their ar_ses as well (to a degree) when it comes to warranty repairs.

Most seatbelts have a ball bearing in them used to lock the retractor if the belt assembly (or vehicle) is not sitting level. It's like a pre-safe type thing for when the vehicle is anywhere but sitting on all 4 wheels e.g. rollover. The ball has probably come adrift or something - old age normal wear and tear for old crappy Corollas.

No horn contacts in those mate, I'd say his clockspring for the airbag (and horn, btw) is rooted.

This is normal for all newer Fujitsu Ten stereos (early 07 onwards) in Toyotas (except Camry/Aurion/LC200 Sahara). Fujitsu Ten have decided that there should be fancy special effects to make the music sound better, apparently. In reality, it does sound like s_hit and this is one of the many reasons we didn't buy a new Corolla to replace our old ZZE-122 Ultima.

Your dealer should be shot for not showing you how do operate this in the first place... while the hours and minutes are flashing together, each press of the button will change it to 12 or 24 hour display. If you notice that the hours don't change, then it will be currently in AM time.