DJKOR

Just the design that has changed. Still uses a traditional bulb for the indicator and reverse light just like the old model. I'm guessing not too many people realised that the last model had the same and now that everyone is starting to use them more in cars, Toyota are just making it more known. I guess throwing it in together with the list of other additions just makes it seem like there is so much more to the car than there is.

Well it's all pretty much been said already, but as everyone (including myself) has recommended, those SMD LED's seem to be the most suitable alternative. The eBay ones are starting to get better. Initially they had a fairly high failure rate, but now they seem to last a bit longer now. You can't really complain though when you can get them for much cheaper than Super Cheap/Autobarn etc.

Welcome mate. As I always say; great choice of car. Before you know it, you'll want to start doing things to it and lucky for the community here, you should have plenty of advice. You should upload some photos for the rest of us to gawk at .

The parking brakes in the Aurion are just the same as well. It's just the design of it unfortunately.

Your wheel size is within it's boundaries... but your wheel/tire combination is not.

You can just pick up a relay harness that can drive two bulbs from one relay and then replace that relay with a single TDR. So only one of each is needed. The TDR is rated for 10A continuous, so if you're headlights combined don't add up to more than 120 watts, then you will be fine. Good information supplied there chicken. Very handy for those that want it. I can activate this feature on my Aurion through the ECU, but I have serious trust issues with it . I can imagine coming back one day to a flat battery because something decided to fail.

It's going to be a tough call. As much as I want to support the good 'ol Rolla, I think this Colt has some track potential. Nebo runs don't purely depend on how good of a car that you have. Its take a fair bit of insanity to maintain pace. Remember, I was mostly keeping on Rowan's tail, but this involved me having to get my rear end to slide just to make it around half the turns. The Colt on the other hand had no slip or tire squeal whatsoever. This to me would indicate that there would be quite a bit more go left in it. Rowan... you need to head out to QR ASAP to help put an end to all the argument.

I'm with BG Pete on this one. Those that usually complain the most about a cop getting them for something are those that are definitely in the wrong.

Don't really need to ask, but you can if you want. I just made mine and posted it, then shot off a PM asking if it could be pinned. Was then pinned before the PM was even received. Go for it. Not like it's copyright or anything.

For sure man. I'll definitely give it another run. I was going a bit under my ability yesterday due to the fact that there were others on the road. That near miss with the rock wall as well kind of dropped my pace down as well. Not easy to slide your rear around a corner when there are cars coming the opposite direction. But yeah, the Colt certainly does move quick through the corners. I reckon given a proper clear day/night, I would most likely loose you. I am driving a boat after all.

Okay Rowan, after sitting on your tail today, I must say that I am more appreciative of the Colt's handling abilities. It does like to stick to the road fairly well, so I'll give you that much. Unfortunately I will never appreciate it's looks though, so that's pretty much where I stand :P

I would just start from scratch and connect the new harness to the stock Toyota harness. You can easily figure out what is what with a simple multimeter and a 1.5 volt battery to determine speaker polarity.

If you can hold the battery against the contacts and get it to work, then I guess if you have the ability, just repair the battery holder and you should be set. Your mate has got the right idea about taking it to one of those watch places if you can't manage to get the battery holder in place. Taking the battery out and leaving it for an infinite time will not reset anything. The remote is only built to transmit one type of code for it's entire life.

I would open up the remote first and look what you have broken. Maybe you would be extremely lucky and just snapped the battery off. If that was the case, a little solder/duct tape would fix it. But that would only be if you are lucky. There are barely any components inside the remote, just an IC, a crystal, and a few switches in electronic speak. More than likely you have snapped the circuit board because those components are that small that it's not that easy to knock them off without that happening, but this you can only tell by opening it up.

While I was working on updating our Aurion FAQ's and took a look through my thread again, I thought I would take some measurements and update this thread. Since I forgot to take before photos of my car when it was sitting on stock Sportivo suspension, I didn't really have a comparison photo. I did manage to find a thread however where I took original measurements so I now have something to work with. After having these fitted for just under 10 days, these are some before and after measurements. Stock Sportivo suspension: Top of rim to bottom of wheel arch: Rear - 145mm Front - 155mm Bottom of side skirt to ground: Rear - 205mm Front - 180mm TRD Aurion suspension: Top of rim to bottom of wheel arch: Rear - 130mm (15mm difference) Front - 142mm (13mm difference) Bottom of side skirt to ground: Rear - 182mm (23mm difference) Front - 161mm (19mm difference) Yes the skirts are lower to the ground despite the rim to arch difference, but that's how it measured. So overall the drop is not that much, but for me it feels like just enough.

Definitely keep us informed of the progress should you attempt that. That's a pretty handy link there. Means you can get some really nice custom eyelids especially if you want to alter the shape a little.

You should really check out my signature or venture outside of the Aurion boards :P I will answer the second statement first: Yeah, not many differences, but doesn't make it easier (or cheap for that matter) if you were to buy every single different part and then fit it With the TRD brakes, they are a direct swap over. Even some guy in the States picked up a set of genuine TRD Aurion rotors and callipers and fitted them to his Gen 6 Camry (TRD Brakes Kit on the 2007 Camry). He mentioned he payed $488 per corner, which I would presume is in US dollars at the time he bought it. If you wanted to go this route though, I'd suggest to get some RDA rotors for the front like Ash (SecaBoy) and then some genuine rotors for the rear plus the callipers all round. Then use an aftermarket brake pad like EBC or Hawk. This would give you the best overall value. For more information, you can have a look here: TRD Aurion brake options And now for the first question. I'm not quoting out of rudeness, just doing this to make it cleaner. This has reminded me though that I have not yet updated the FAQ's to account for this. I will do that a little later and I have now updated the FAQ's to cover this: I opted for the slotted only because I plan to push these pretty hard down the track and don't want to risk damaging them. I've heard the cross drilled ones are only for Street Use. Anyways, I managed to pick them up for a whopping $220 a piece. Definitely not a friendly price, but my old rotors were FUBAR and I can't really put a price to safety.

You should find that even though the plug into the head unit is different, the colours of the wires coming out of it are the same. They use a pretty good standard these days. You just need to connect the new Pioneer harness to the stock harness wire for wire like the previous one. If that fails, a multimeter and a 1.5 volt battery is all you need to work everything out. I would have been able to give you a hand tomorrow, but Sam is hungry and now she's all excited when I said that she can eat some R.Colt's tomorrow :P

Evan... if you love your Corolla that much, make the FAQ yourself instead of suggesting someone else to do it :P

Drove it around quite a bit today to look at some open houses. Then picked up some rubber hose (needed a bit of flexibility) and re-made my upper intake resonator bypass. Last revision did not have that much flexibility and I wanted to make it a little different. Was running with my resonator in it's place for quite a while so it's nice to have the induction sound back again.

That's good then. Just to let you know, you have to have those two hoses connected that go down towards the bottom of the radiator if you want your car to run like it should. Your front engine mount uses vacuum to help reduce vibration at idle speeds.

Those bastards Daryl any endorsement fee from them? hahaha.. LOL. If only that worked. I'm kind of laughing at the situation mainly because these days they seem to be sending the grill out with mesh that has really large holes in it. My photo has the mesh that they used to supply on it... plus it has even more mesh behind it, so that photo is a fair bit misleading as it is.

Hmmm. I think you have the better of two evils. On the Auspack unit, if you are playing a CD etc, the music is stopped completely when it enters bluetooth mode. This means that if you were a couple of minutes into a song and get a call, when you end the call and it switches back to the CD player, you have to wait a good 10 seconds for it to load (like you just turned the head unit on), and then the songs starts up again at the beginning. Got really annoying when I would make a call and get a busy tone and then have to try again and again.... or when someone pranked my phone. Now I use an MP3 combined with the AUX input. No issues there now. The music just keeps on playing on the MP3 player, but meh. At least it now changes back to the music much faster. I was always a Sony Ericsson fan before this though. After buying a K750i when it first came out, I was completely hooked. I always kept upgrading getting the K800i, then the K850i. They were just so damn good at taking photos. Then I wanted something different and got a HTC. Took a bit of getting used to, but now it's all good.

My only real issue is the delay of the damn thing. This explains the situation: Similar problems. It goes something like this. Incoming calls: - Answer on phone; sound is routed through handset only. - Answer on head unit; sound is routed through head unit. Never did this with my old Sony Ericsson, my new phone is HTC Diamond. Outgoing calls: - Calls made from both phone and head unit are routed through head unit. That's basically it. Haven't had pairing issues since the first couple of months of getting the unit. I must say though, the incoming calls problem is now no longer a problem for me. It just means that if I have someone else in the car, I can now take the call without it going through the head unit.

All you do is press SRC and select what you want (in this case 'RADIO'), then once that is going, pressing NAVI will take you to the navigation software while the music plays in the background. This is how it is meant to work. Outside of this and something is not going right. Just a note, when in NAVI mode, pressing the NAVI button again will mute the music and the screen will say 'GPS 2'. Pressing the NAVI button again though will un-mute the music.