DJKOR

If you are interested in the QFM HPX pads, give Greg at GSL RallySport a call (1300 884 836). He deals directly with QFM so you'll definitely know if there are any delays. When I first got my set of pads, they were on a manufacturing backorder but after that, they seem to have decent stock of them. I had to change my front pads just the other week and I simply called him up and ordered them. Because he is located in Brisbane, they were in a courier van within a few hours and I got them in the afternoon on the same day. That is for the HPX pads though. The A1RM pads are usually harder to come by, but if you have a few weeks available, you can order them and then you shouldn't have any issues. These pads though are mainly track pads, so it's only something to consider if you like to race your car. I can safely say that for the Aurion, the HPX pads can take quite a beating at a track day and will keep functioning to the point that your brake fluid will give way before the pads. They will wear much faster than the stock or Bendix pads when giving a hard run on slotted rotors, but for the performance of them, this is a justifiable trade-off. My preference for QFM pads is fairly biased considering that I've only got the stock pads and Bendix General CT's to compare with though. I haven't taken the opportunity to try other pads mainly because I want to keep using the same pad for the life of my rotors. From my experience though, the QFM HPX pads are indeed a good pad with great value. If you have your own pad preference, definitely look further into it.

I personally would recommend QFM HPX brake pads for the Aurion. They use Bendix product codes of DB1474 for the front and DB1475 for the rear. These pads can be obtained for $79 per axle set plus shipping from GSL Rallysport. Otherwise, for a good general purpose pad, the Bendix General CT's are alright, however they cost around $80-$90 per axle set. If you can find a place that still has stock of the Bendix Ultimates though (as it is now discontinued in that pad design), those would be a good one to get as they shouldn't cost much. The price that you got quoted for the DBA4000 front rotors seems to be about what others are getting quoted these days for them (the slotted variety BTW). I wouldn't expect that you could get them much cheaper than that. The DBA4000 for the rear though seems to be a bit harder to obtain. Not too long ago they were currently on backorder.... I'm not sure of the status of them now. I desperately need to change my rears though, so if they aren't available, I'll just ask if they have the 2000 series slotted available instead.

Was a good day. A big thanks to Mish, Mark, and Pete for the organisation of it all. Had quite a lot of fun but was greatly embarrassed due to that stupid squeaking brake pad. I hate it when things aren't running like they should. Yeah... I get a bit carried away with mountain runs so I apologise if sitting on your a** gets a little annoying. Was good to meet some of the Sydney members as well.

And what gives you that impression Brad? I personally don't think he is a bot. He communicates with us just like a normal person would... for example: As far as I'm aware, a bot isn't that appreciative. On top of that, he even used my name in one of his posts: By the way, thanks for the praise Alfred :D

Can't help out with a place that you can get them rather than online, but do you still have the stock wheel nuts? If so, you shouldn't have any issue with corrosion on them and changing them out is probably pointless... except for adding bling.

The best way if you want to do that is to go to the 'Members Rides' section and create a thread there. You can host your pictures at an external site like ImageShack, TinyPic, etc.

Welcome mate. You should definitely come and join us on one of our weekly meets. Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 9pm 8pm)

I manage about 8.2-8.4 l/100km per tank when I do interstate driving averaging 110-120km/h with several full throttle overtaking manoeuvres. From what I have found, driving at 110km/h doesn't help you get better fuel consumption.

Just go into a Toyota spare parts department or try with an automotive installer. They aren't that expensive for the convenience of getting them. This is what you are looking for from Toyota (thank you djc for the code): Spacer: Left - 86221 52050, Right - 86221 52060 ($16.60 each) If you go to an automotive installer like JB, you can even get them for under $20 for the pair.

From my own experience, I have found there to be barely any difference between regular 91 octane unleaded, 95 or 98 octane premium unleaded, or E10 ethanol... when doing sedate highway driving. For that kind of work, when the engine just keeps on running at around 2000 RPM and doesn't accelerate hard to keep the revs as low as possible, either fuel works just as well. E10 though would be the most cost efficient for this scenario. But as I said, this is from my own experience. Your mileage may vary (no pun intended).

We have various threads, just search 'debadging'. Nothing really to see there though. Just the same advise all over again. Heat them up gently with a hair-dryer (or park in the summer sun) then using fishing wire, put it behind the badge and while pulling away from the car, use a sawing motion to free the emblem. Then you can clean up the remaining adhesive residue with a citrus oil glue remover (or eucalyptus oil). Yes there are two pins on the back of the emblem... just work the fishing wire around it. They aren't clips, just straight pins to help position it.

I actually had an electrical fire in my old Camry thanks to a neon inverter randomly failing. After that, I carried a fire extinguisher in that car just in case. For $20 or so bucks, it wasn't a big hassle.

I can't remember the name, but it was a dark plum colour. I originally got it for my engine cover, but then thought I would do the rear emblem at the same time. So it's not exactly black, but I quite like the appearance in my opinion. Removing it was relatively easy... similar to the other badges. Putting it back on was a different story. I didn't really trust the way that the 3M adhesive was attached to the emblem (mostly hollow on the other side), but that was easily solved with some black gasket silicone. It's going nowhere anymore.

I wonder how that got there Thanks for letting me use your garage though. I don't think I would have managed to make the trip back to Canberra with that embarrassing brake squeal.

I firstly drove her on a dirt road just out of the ACT to get to a friends place. Was fun to slide around. Then drove her into Sydney and gave her a good bath. Then went out for the meet/cruise that was going on. The drive to Sydney also managed to push my rear brakes over the edge; most likely existing issue that didn't show it's bad effects until now. My rear brake pads had developed cracks throughout and as a result made this G** awful squealing noise.... sorry to the guys on the cruise. Then I headed back to Mish and Mark's place after the meet and replaced my rear brake pads and the squeal is now gone. Then I drove her back to Canberra.

Like said, spray your own ones. Don't bother with the Camry Sportivo ones:

So I'm guessing that is one of the 101 uses for Coke then?

:o Oh my! Even my Mum and Sister who barely know a thing about a car at least know about the radiator. I think you should step away from you car until you at least do some learning: HowStuffWorks "How Car Cooling Systems Work"

They made the front number plate holder the wrong size. I really noticed that with the one I looked at. It's like they want you to put a Euro plate on it... otherwise it just looks out of place.

I must admit, I did see that coming. I had a good feeling that your current sub wouldn't be able to take the punch of your nice new amp.

Oh dear... this seems to be pointing in one direction. Let your car cool down (just in case), and then open your radiator cap and see if it is empty. If it is not, there could possibly be a blockage somewhere in the line.

That is providing you have the same connectors. As I said before, without seeing it first and, I can't say that the wiring is exactly the same. As for the steering wheel controls, this guide by Mikeyboy should help you out. I'll be away from home for a little bit, so I can't really give you a hand: Steering wheel audio controls

In addition, having not worked on the stock navigation unit, I'm not sure if my previous post with reference to the wiring would be of any relevance. There is the possibility that your head unit might be using an already known wiring pattern. Take a look at the following service manual from page 49: http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen6/2GR-FE/Navigation.pdf The connector that you took a photo of seems to match up with connector 'F10' as per the attached service manual. If that is the case, you should have that 24 pin connector there as well. You did remove your entire head unit right?

I am aware that the one you have shown is a 20 pin connector. I just made my above statement because usually you will find that your stock head unit will have at least 2 different connectors that plug into the back of it. On the previous model Aurion, you have at least 3 connectors. One carries the steering wheel controls (details below about the DISP button functionality), another carries the power and the front speaker wiring, and the other carries the rear speaker wiring. I wasn't aware of whether or not you have connected everything yet or have just disconnected only one of a few connectors there. I would be guessing that you have other connectors there (because the one you have shown does not have all the required wires on it) and it would be useful if you could also show what they look like. From just looking at that one connector alone, it appears that your stock wiring harness is definitely different*. That said though, from visual inspection I may be able to guide you as to which wires you would be most likely to test. This is why I was asking to see what the other connectors are like. As for the DISP button functionality, for the previous model when changing to an aftermarket unit, it was as simple as following the next procedure. Without seeing your wiring myself, I can't make judgement: * Just so you can compare the differences, this is what the previous model harness looked like... not including the navigation specific harness (where the reverse camera wiring is located):

When I had mine in the Camry, I had it mounted at the very rear of the driver's footwell. Made for easy access should the emergency ever occur. It looked similar to this, just on the driver's side and smaller: Another place I would suggest is the passenger footwell mounted against the centre console section like this: