DJKOR

At least it retains a sleeper style :P There has been a bit of discussion on the issue: M_M

If you have to go this path, may I suggest the Lucas additives. Have had many good experiences with them. As said though... only for temporary assistance. DIY FTW

incorrect. you cannot have your foggies on at all (regardless of any other lighting combination) unless the weather calls for it. but whether or not you get busted for it is at the discretion of the cop or rta officer you get spotted by. Correct and correct. Despite the law, if the sun is setting and I can make it home before needing my headlights, I drive around with just my parkers and fog lights on (so other road users can see my car on the road). I do this quite often and have passed many cops and haven't been pulled over for it yet. Doesn't make it any more legal... just shows that they aren't always that picky.

I can imagine Mick going to a self serve car wash and the paint coming off with the gerni Jokes aside, that is looking pretty good mate. Fairly decent rattle can job.

Have you visually inspected all fuses yet? In this case, I would also take a good hard look at the fusible links in the engine bay fuse box (the big long blue ones). Quite possibly something is playing up with your charging system. Not particualrly the alternator, but can possibly be. Does your charge light on the dash stay illuminated once the car is started? If you aren't confident doing some troubleshooting with a multimeter, I would suggest to have someone look at it for you.

It depends on how you feel about it all. I personally just don't like Castrol oil (which is what my service department of choice most likely uses) and have better peace of mind bringing in my own fluids. The only fluids I'd let them use is the ATF and the coolant.

There is no need to do a wheel alignment again. Changing the tires will not undo any previous wheel alignment work. The only thing that has to be re-done is a wheel balance for the ones that get the tires changed... but that is usually included in the tire price and is standard practice.

Don't get overly concerned if the 'Check VSC' warning comes up since most of the time it will come on when another fault is present. In most cases, the VSC is fine, but you should still get the car checked to see what the actual fault code is. Still haven't figured out why the VSC warning comes up, my guess is that people would more likely take it in to get checked if presented with that message rather than a check engine light.

Slightly off topic (while bumping the thread), I'm seriously still trying to find that ad. No one seems to know about it so I'm glad you remember it. I think it was Converse. Got them in black? Any Blacker? Blacker? Someone has to have it.

It didn't have any slits cut into it, and neither did it appear to have any special stitching around that area. If subjected to an airbag blast though, I'd imagine it tearing through it though. The material is easier to break than the plastic on the steering wheel/dash. Can't guarantee it would work 100% though.

So do I... ... with a side of beer battered chips.

+1... especially the bold part.

you mean rego fees? if so then yeah we do. cant really remember but it cost me somewhere between $650 to $700+ a year! i agree that the prices are too steep! He was referring to a yearly fee to have personalised plates. In that case, for personalised plates in Queensland, it is only a once off fee.

The process goes something like this: 10 minutes to completely vacuum the interior and dust down plastic surfaces 40 minutes to completely wash and dry exterior 20 minutes to wipe down door sills, door jams, hinge areas, boot surrounds, engine bay 10 minutes to clean interior and exterior glass 10 minutes to wipe down all wheels and tire shine So all up it can take me around 1.5 hours to completely clean my car. It sometimes takes less, sometimes takes more. It all depends on how dirty it gets. The interior doesn't get too dirty, but the door sills get quite dirty. In the Summer months, my fortnightly waxing adds a good 3 hours to my cleaning process. I love keeping my car clean though. That said, the interior surprisingly stays pretty clean with the windows down. It's not like a dust storm going through the car or anything. It's just habit for me. The moment I start the car, my immediate first thing to do is put the front windows all the way down. Anyways watersmj, to keep a response to the original question so as to not deviate from the topic much, try looking into tires designed as a touring tire. Those are usually aimed towards comfort which also results in lower road noise.

Looking pretty sleek and stylish. You need some personalised plates. The state issue ones are ruining the look

toyota website says "All models come standard with Air Conditioning including a pollen filter." though I usually get a lot of airborne dust everywhere I drive thanks to the roadworks nearby. My pollen filter gets dirty in about 5,000km with the vents set to fresh air 90% of the time. When I drive with the windows down, the car gets a little bit dustier inside and is noticeable on the dash. I clean my car inside and out at least once a week though, so this isn't an issue for me. I clean it inside to about this standard every week: I've even gotten into the habit of cleaning the hinges etc:

hey man, i did as those instructions said but it doesn't work :( it says "insert the already registered master key in the key cylinder" but it doesn't state whether to put it on "On" or "acc" or "start", so i'm confused....i tried doing it exactly as it said but no luck .... i'd ask you how you did it, but you have a different car...thanks for your help anyway man.. From reading the instructions, I would say you don't turn the key at all. Just insert/remove etc. It should pick it up I would have assumed. You can tell it detects it because when you take the key out, the security light starts flashing and when you insert the key, it stops flashing. Then if you take an unchipped key and insert it, the security light still keeps flashing. Anyways, sorry to hear it didn't work. It was worth a shot I guess. Bit of a bummer. I guess the US ones program differrently because they seem to have success with the procedure: Key Question (Searched) Upon searching more, it seems like it is a hit and miss. Some people say it works, some say it doesn't.

Waits for Ingres. He has some nice leather like seat covers. The fitment may not be as good as a full re-trim, but it comes in really cleanly.

Have a look from page 26: http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen5/73_...d_Door_Lock.pdf

Sorry, just have to quote Clerks 2: Dante Hicks: You wouldn't wanna be with a girl with an oversized c*? Randal Graves: No, 'cause the next step is a guy with an undersized d*.

With the unit that Alfred has posted, the fascia is PART of the head unit. There is no need to buy a fascia kit as you would with a standard double DIN unit.

Looks much different when put onto the car doesn't it. It's because most likely when he showed you the film, there was close to equal amounts of light on either side. Take the light away from one side and it makes a huge difference. That's screaming to be pulled over by a cop. That's nearly like the limo tint.

As mentioned by lateralus, you do indeed have a Gen 6 Camry. The ACV40R and GSV40R are both Gen 6's. In the States, the ACV40R is the I4 Camry, and the GSV40R is the V6 model. Here in Australia though, the GSV40R is the Aurion. As for the spoiler fitting, the boot lid shares very close upper dimensions. The only difference between the Camry and Aurion boot lid is the overall shape and rear part of it. The Aurion spoiler will fit onto a Gen 6 Camry with no issues however. Just like how the Aurion can use the Camry lip spoiler. The Aurion spoiler mounting points sit in a tiny bit which allows for any variation as well.

SO WOT!!! A TIPTRONIC SKYLINE is GAY!! I'd buy one over a Corolla Ascent any day. Back on topic, you just need to really think about what your wants and needs really are. It's a tough decision, but hopefully you will figure it out.