DJKOR

I have my doubts about those bulbs. I personally would choose HID over them mainly because the two are completely different in terms of technology involved. The HID gives off a more clean and pure light as well. Those HOD bulbs (seems like a stupid name to me) look very similar to a well tested halogen bulb design known as HIR. These new HOD bulbs are quite questionable about their performance (need to test one first I reckon) compared to the HIR bulb, which is a GE design and actually does work. The high beams on my Aurion use those bulbs (comes standard with them), and I find they are much brighter than normal halogen bulbs of the same wattage. Some more reading on HIR bulbs: http://hirheadlights.com/ I personally would stay away from the HOD bulbs. It seems like they are cheap Asian made bulbs and Autobarn is trying to talk it up.

As SecaBoy said... I would safely say this was more than likely to be your ABS. The ABS actuator makes quite a bit of noise itself and the noise and vibration can also travel through the brake lines. Since it is located on the right side of the car, this can make it more louder on this side of the car. To give you some education on the subject: HowStuffWorks "How Anti-Lock Brakes Work"

The way I would do it is to remove both the front map lights and the dome light firstly. Then tap into the dome light wiring and extend some wires forward to the front. Then put a diode in line (to prevent the map lights from turning on the dome lights), and then a switch to override it, and then connect the extended wires directly to the map lights. That would do it. It is quite simple to access both lights as well. P.S. I edited my post from a few posts up. Contains my better answers.

That's alright. I guess everyone searces differently. In the FAQ, I have the link to the thread "LED and HID and Kangaroos". There you will find the answer: Yes it is quite possible. You simply wire the map lights in parallel with the dome light with a diode in between. Only issue is that even if you turn the dome light to off, the map lights will always come on when you open the doors. You can get around this by integrating a switch if you can find somewhere to cleanly mount it. There are quite a few ways you could make this all happen if you really wanted to.

One of the links I have in the FAQ will lead you here: LED and HID and Kangaroos". There you will find the answer: Although, a more useful answer of mine would be: I spent a total of $25 for all my T10 LED's (parkers, door lights, map lights), $29.95 on the main dome light ( 12VDC Auto Interior LED Lamp Kit ), and $24.95 on the light in the boot( 12VDC Flexible 21 LED Lights ). For the festoon style bulbs, Jaycar has them but they are a bit more pricey. As well, there is a limit as to how bright those festoon style replacements get. That's why I used the one that I have linked above. It comes with a fitting that allows you to put it into a festoon style base. This is a picture of my dome light setup and boot light. They are surface mount LED's. You'll need a soldering iron if you want to change them.

Edited: Noticed that the old link video was removed when I went to watch it again. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

This thread has gone a little quiet. So who else will definitely be there? A bit late to mention this, but the other week I faxed in my form so I am a definite.

You should probably state which PPQ style you are going to choose Evan. It's the difference between a $415 plate and a $2,295 one.

eBay LED's are a hit and miss. Some last, some don't. They are relatively cheap though, so I tend to stick with them... even if I have to replace one or two after a few months. Also, don't get those T10 repacements that have just one large LED; the ones that Repco and the like sell. They are fairly dim, and will not be satisfying. As for the colour, I'd suggest sticking with white. In my photo, mine look rather blue. In person though, it's actually a pretty clear white. It also appears as bright as the original bulb when looking at it. Due to the characteristics of LED's however, it doesn't project as far, but the visual intensity is there. Just be aware that if you use an LED that looks more blue than anything else, the police might not approve of that as it says on the Queensland Transport website that blue lights are only allowable on emergency vehicles.

You can obtain a copy from Toyota. They will charge you like $30 or something like that for it though. That mode button you are referring to is the speed alert. It cycles between: OFF -> Preset One -> Preset Two -> Preset Three -> Freely Ajustable -> OFF On any of the preset modes, you hold down the mode button for a couple of seconds then use the arrow buttons to set you speed alert. When you have reached the value you want, you hold the mode button again for a couple of seconds to set it. In the freely adjustable mode, you just use the arrow buttons to change the value without having to hold down the mode button (I'm pretty sure... I haven't done that in a while and I don't have my car with me right now).

Ignore my dirty engine bay since this was taken ages ago when I never really cleaned my engine bay. This is on the drivers side looking towards the front of the car. I mounted your HID ballast near there as well if you can remember.

Okay, well maybe my hearing is probably fked When listening to both drive by at the same speed though (while not being under heavy load, which would obviously make a different exhaust note), I have noticed no difference in note except for the sound of the restriction on the S/C. Yes it does sound different when presented with sufficient load but then in this scenario, the engine is much different due to the boost. For justification, I find the note is very similar with the TRD. The volume of it and the RPM in which it makes its noise however is not, and this may be thought of as a different note, but I find it similar. For example, a N/A Aurion makes the best note past 4,000RPM; where it starts to make good power, this is presented as a nice deep note. On the TRD however, it makes its power nice and early and in return, you start to hear it earlier. That said, I still believe that if you put the TRD stock mufflers on a N/A 2GR, it will sound like any other Aurion, simply because the effect the S/C has on the exhaust. Putting it on is not going to cause it to sound deeper much earlier than normal.

The mufflers would be pretty much identical. What you get that contributes to a slightly different note is due to the effects of a supercharger even doing minimal work. Essentially, the S/C adds an extra load to the engine, and as you know, an exhaust note can sound different when under different loads. Same principle basically. Then as you add more engine speed, the extra air flow from the S/C changes the note even more. Maybe my hearing isn't quite the same, but standing at the rear of a stock Aurion and a TRD Aurion, I can barely hear any difference in the exhaust note.

Well to make a contribution: DJKOR/Daryl And to revive an old thread for continuation: Your screen name, tell us what it means... Each to their own. I would imagine that this method wouldn't work so great with a decent sized crowd. Usually at meets, the best way to remember a person's name is to meet and greet. Then again, I am a practical person and learn differently.

That's alright. You will only be seeing it for a short time before he pulls away from your charged 1ZZ

Very good and quite a true comparison.

That removable piece only seems to be on the ZR6, Presara, and TRD SL.

Well things like caster, camber, and toe can be modified during a wheel alignment. Unless Toyota specifically have certain parameters that the SX6 and ZR6 use, then they aren't really that different, especially when every car can have slightly different alignment values.

Fancy that... same here Hope Lorne is not too cold for you Daryl. I'm in Sydney this week (weather very pleasant), and in Melbourne next week. Hope it isn't too cold... The weather is quite pleasant actually. Good enough for shorts. Just the annoying bit of rain and strong winds now and again. That's pretty funny because I'll be in Terrigal (NSW) next week.

You will drive it hard in no time.

True. Good point. Completely went over my head. That exhaust is a catback minus the resonator which flows to twin Borla mufflers. That said, there is still no gain to be had by simply removing the resonator and changing to free flowing rear mufflers. For those curious about the TRD exhaust, photos are here: Rear exhausts

What would make you think that? The part numbers for the springs and shocks are exactly the same for both the SX6 and the ZR6. I wouldn't imagine anything in-between to be any different. Front Shocks Right: 48510-09Q10 Left: 48520-09J60 Front Coils Right/Left: 48471-06020 Rear Shocks Right: 48530-09M30 Left: 48540-09770 Rear Coils Right/Left: 48231-06450

Fancy that... same here

As far as I'm aware, these files are supplied to distributors and installers of such Eclipse units. Your best bet is to ask one of them if they can provide you with the file. I hear that they get a special CD that they put into the head unit and it loads up with the appropriate customisation.

I would personally unplug the head unit completely and let it sit overnight then plug it back in the next day and see if it is still playing up. Worth a shot in my opinion.