DJKOR

Feel free to keep looking an looking, but if you do a bit of research, you may find that the supercharger is already running close to it's maximum efficiency. In other words, you won't be getting any gains out of a smaller pulley. Why do you think the pulley is already so small in the first place?

Mate, without seeing any documentation about your throttle controller, how on earth do you expect us to help you? Without pictures or diagrams, we can't just simply tell you how to wire everything up.

Location: Browns Plains. .... no comment. Even if there was some sort of tune that they personally could have gotten their hands on, I have my doubts about it being able to put down that much power at the wheels with the factory intake which is still fitted. The factory intake is quite a restriction and is noticeable in the higher revs... on a stock TRD.

You are approaching this the wring way from the sounds if it. Making any changes to the power going into the throttle controller by means of a switch or relay will do absolutely nothing. If you're saying you need to press a momentary button on the throttle controller itself to turn it in every time you start the car, then you need to open the throttle controller and modify the switching for the switch. This is beyond a simple relay/switch combination.

I just saw this on TV then. Always liken Penn & Teller. Just goes to show how good Penn's memory is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLMoGkHEsVA

Did you get it checked WHILE the light is on? Because if it's not on, then having it read is kinda pointless. I find it hard to believe that it will show no codes if you had it read while the light is on. It could be any number of things so we'd only be clutching at straws when giving suggestions.

oh i meant over 100,000k ^_^ Anyone who puts an fuel injector cleaner adaptive into their tank and claims immediate changes is definitely experiencing the placebo effect. These things usually take about the entire tank before you start noticing any real changes. This is essentially what Ronnyboy meant.

Notice the 55D23L on the White sticker on my battery. Shows that the Toyota OEM battery is no different to the standard Century battery so they haven't done a dodgy on us. That said, even the standard Century battery is quite reliable. I still have the factory one and 4 years and 4 months on, it is still going strong and starts the car flawlessly.

My G** people are getting lazier and lazier these days: If you still don't understand and don't know how to research, read here.

http://dba.com.au/4000-series Thanks for the quick reply! I'm assumig its the second one, so if i get these rotors its as easy as taking off the old ones and replacing it with these. And no nods needed for the rotors to fit? Cheers! Have you followed this thread at all? Go back a page and read the post from Greg (gslrallysport).

Ouch George. That's pretty f***** up. Today at 5:53pm, spotted Dee at the intersection of Beams and Handford Roads.

My tire wear is pretty much even all round, with the exception of the front left wearing slightly faster than the front right due to the nature of the car. I have not had a single wheel alignment on this car for 115,000km. Should probably consider getting that checked one day though.

30.3mm. It's not much.

The same one that came with it.... which is no different to a normal Aurion. Or any alternative battery that fits an Aurion according to your budget.

Can I do the above to replace the fog light unit? I assume they are just held on by four screws? Thanks. The fog light assembly itself is secured by either 1 or 2 Phillips head screws. All you need is a #2 Phillips head screwdriver to remove it.

Damn that is fine. ..... Girl and her rack were alright too.

Damn turbo spool sounds wicked.

Looks many many times better in real life. Top effort mate.

In.

Spotted George (GDU88) at 10:12am heading inbound on the Pacific Motorway around Mt. Gravatt.

The streets aren't a racetrack.

For long trips where you are going to spend a lot of your time in the low revs while cruising, in my opinion you won't really reap the benefits of a higher octane fuel. If you are happy with the E10 and reckon you have good results with it, then by all means stick to it, otherwise regular unleaded or premium will work fine. If you are like some of us (myself included) and tend to think that BP Ultimate is good for your engine, then by am means feel free to use that. This is more for the 'cleaning' properties of the fuel and not for its octane.

Hallmark are actually doing the same sort of thing with some of their greeting cards. Like a birthday cake with flickering candles, etc.

Having lower air pressure in the back seems to be a little on the reverse logic of things with a FWD. Remember that the rears tend to not get as 'heated' from driving as the fronts do. As a result, the front will increase in pressure more than the rears. If using different pressures, you should be going for higher on the rears than the fronts (cool pressure). I would be aiming for a 2 PSI difference. I run the same pressure all round when measured at warm/running temperature and don't find it to affect the handling in any way as some would imagine with the rear being lighter than the front. 32 PSI is a little on the low side for tires anyways. You should go for at least 34 PSI for better tire wear.

36-38 PSI is a good number that will work on 16's, 17's and 18's for the Aurion. For 19's I'd be aiming for 37-39 PSI.