DJKOR

Why bother with the middle man? Just go down to Autobarn or the likes. That stock the mesh, and in black as well. like $20 for a 1200mm x 280mm section of it.

I'm a pretty stubborn individual. Once I have my eyes set on something, I will usually try to push forward with it. Me thinks I will find someone who can supply the Varex for a good price then I'll just jump in and buy it. I will then get work done around that I reckon. I have been payed out all my accumulated holiday pay from my last employer and am ready to spend. I'm on this two part thinking process right now. On one hand there may be the potential for gains with a properly designed exhaust, but I will always have the same note. I don't want quiet because I like it to have some grunt, but I also don't want it permanently loud because sometimes noise is not good. But I also don't want it to be average because I like to grab attention. If there is the potential to work around the Varex and have gains as well, then I will be more than happy.

True. I should have been a little more specific. I meant to clear the check engine light. Essentially though, if you clear the check engine light and drive your car for a bit (and the check engine light was your fault), you would then clear the codes after a bit of driving cause the car thinks everything is fine? I have cleared the check engine light twice this way and brought my car in for a service twice and they said they scanned the OBD and found no problems. So I figured the error codes were cleared. Two part answer I guess.

Is that were the 2 pipes meet? Having a hard time following it. Andrew... rotate the photo 90 degrees anti-clockwise and it should make sense. That appears to merge at a 'T'. If the Kluger has a neater merge and is rated at 201kW, I am starting to doubt the benefits of working on that section of exhaust.

I used the the original mounting hardware which were two bolts that held the original grill in place. Maybe the Sportivo grill has different mounts.

Looks like you got the version with the larger hole mesh. eSEXSIX got one like that as well. You need to change that mesh over so it's less see-through.

theres a chamber on the side that lets air out look on the xforce site if u wna know exactly how it works :) I'm quite concerned about how small that port is exactly. It looks pretty small in the photos (about 1 inch). That doesn't seem too healthy. Also, a question for you ApBPaul; when you have your the valve closed and rev the engine, do you hear a sound like air rushing (kind of like an exhaust leak). I'm concerned that if I got a Varex setup, it would sound like the exhaust is leaking when closed. Also, I did some measuring earlier, I would reckon that the 6x9 inch oval Varex would fit and the outlet would line up perfectly on the Aurion if placed right. Hmmm, the temptation.

What are you doing in Surfers DJKOR??? I'm doing a job at Mantra Crown Towers. Won't be done till the end of next week. The Coast just doesn't seem the same when you aren't on holiday.

Well, I just got paid out from my last job, and this sounds interesting. I think I'll take tomorrow off and swing by and have a word with you Drew. You are more than welcome to hoist my car up for a more in depth look.

I personally doubt that Rowan's rear muffler change would be accountable for his 14.4 second pass. A member here by the name of jess_w had managed a 14.5 second pass with a stock AT-X with its soft suspension. All Rowan has done is swaped his rear mufflers only, just like what some of us here (including me) want to do. Only in my case I want my rear mufflers to be Varex. Provided that they don't increase the restriction over stock when closed (one reason why I want the oval design), I don't see the harm in fitting them.

When I got a check engine light and a 'Check VSC System' warning after starting my car with the MAF unplugged, I pulled out all four or so EFI fuses and put them back in a minute later and it was fine. I guess each case may vary. Just to make sure it wasn't a once off, I repeated the procedure this morning. I have uploaded a video for reference, though I doubt it means anything. You can see Drew how the return to idle isn't as smooth as it should be. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

I should be there this Thursday. I may need to come from Surfers though, but I will still try to be there.

I'm not sure about testing different systems as I definitely want twin oval Varex mufflers at the rear, but as bad as it sounds (wasting money inappropriately) if this $950 rebate thing goes through, I know where I'm going. I just had a look, and X-Force now offer a universal style Varex with no fancy tip. I'm guessing this can be had a little cheaper. That's not my main concern though. The reason why I see this is as an advantage is that to have the oval Varex fit on the Aurion, the outlet needs to sit offset from the centre. I am thinking maybe if the Varex sits as far back as it can, a new outlet can be fabricated into shape so it fits where it needs to. It just means that I need to take the risk in buying it and hope that it can be made to fit.

Bearing in mind that this was a still air test. I would suspect you would get your error codes of the sensor wasn't placed in just the right spot and you had air forced towards it (ie. wind or air flow from driving).

Very nice. What size tip is that? It seems to be a little too big for the cutout in the bumper. You should post some photos as well. I still really want a pair of Varex as well, but I would only be satisfied with the oval shape mufflers. I guess I will have to take the plunge and buy a pair and MAKE it fit. And to make it easier for others: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

In reply to pegaxs, resetting the error codes are as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes (just to make sure), or taking out the ECU fuse for about 20 seconds. Now in this case, if someone's gotta do it, I guess it would be me. I opened my air filter box as much as I could with the little give in the hose, and started my car and revved it a few times, up to as high as 4500 RPM. No check engine light was thrown in the minute that I did all of this in. I did notice however that when I released the throttle and let the revs drop to idle, it went down to about 700 RPM, then in fluctuated upwards about 50 RPM more and kind of 'flickered' around that area for a few seconds after stabilising at about 700 PRM again. Also bear in mind that I have removed my activated carbon filter that sits in the upper portion of the air box. I would say if this were in place, it would even up a little bit of the air flow, so my case would be more 'testing' than a stock Aurion doing the same. That was as much of the air box that I could expose. If you need me to go even further and rotate things around, just let me know and I'll see what I can do tomorrow. They don't give much room to play around in that engine bay, and it's late at night and I should be getting some rest. Edit: I re-read your post and saw another side to your request. I'm sure you wouldn't mean to disconnect the hose from the throttle body right? That case would most definitely throw and error code as no air will pass through the MAF sensor.

Hope the Varex solution works out for you man. I'm tempted to save up the money for a full system, but I just don't think I could handle a car that ALWAYS sounds louder than stock. The Varex, despite it's negatives, is really the only way to have quiet and loud.

I haven't got photos, but I have had a look under my mates Kluger and found that the exhaush merges further back than ours and without that tight bend, more like a 'y' merge. I couldn't get a good look, but it appears to squish into a 2.5 inch exhaust like ours. Would need someone else to confirm this.

Depends on what part you are after exactly. Some little bits here and there they may have in stock out in the back or something, otherwise they just order it in from one of their main parts distribution as required. Even for newer models they sometimes have to do that as their warehouse can obviously hold more. My Aurion needed a part or two and that had to come from Sydney.

Are you referring to the 2GR-FE model of the Kluger? These engines are pretty well tuned, and I don't think you're going to get an extra 15kW out of an exhaust alone.

How about this: http://www.toyota.com.au/TWR/DealerSearch/0,4159,,00.html

Ahh, the good 'ol pipe and spanner. I always need to go that way every time I get my car back for a tire shop. Just make sure you don't do it when tightening. That may not end nicely.

Them 2JZ blocks are pretty tough. Really is amazing to watch that car launch in person. Not bad for a 3.0l engine.

The attached photo of apg39's mesh grill is the standard Thailand mesh grill being discussed all over this forum. They are all the same in regards to fitment. A simple swap and no modifications to the grill or the bumper are needed. As said, if it is marketed for the Asian Camry and you can see the shape if like that; it will fit. You will definitely know if you piked the wrong grill (normal Gen 6 Camry), because their grill shape is completely different.

That is a good idea I would say. With the look of the coilovers and how it sits at the mount, it doesn't look like camber adjustment would be easy in the first place. That would give it some odd angle.