DJKOR

Count me in. I'd be more than glad to pay him to take some photos of my Aurion. Every photographer has their individual style, and I like tangcla's. 1. eSEXSIX - Aurion 2. (non forum member) - M5 BMW 3. ROL14 4. TRD Aurion Owner 5. 11TWO (maybe dependent on when it will be) 6. Evo7 - Corolla 7. DJKOR

^ Well... that explains your username :P

Like the_random_hero said above, if you are using the relay, there is no need to change the standard fuse in the fuse box. On a side note, if you are installing HID's and running them off the stock wiring and there is already a 10-15A fuse in the fuse box, DO NOT put a higher rated fuse such as 20A. The end result of this is that should anything mess up, your stock wiring will most likely become the fuse. With respect to the HID's, they do draw a higher current at start, but auto fuses are generally slow burning. The in-rush current will be for that brief of a period that a 10A fuse would be okay, even if the kit draws up to 15-18A in that peak period.

Ouch. Yeah, that hurts man. I lost 3 points in one go on my P's. Surprisingly I made it one whole year without clocking up any more points. My driving toned down at first, but within one week, I was back to my usual self. It was just luck, and a sharp eye that kept me good for that period. Then there was the kicker. You know how when you're on your opens, they say if you accumulate 12 or more points within a 3 year period you will have choice of suspension or good behaviour? Well, I thought after a year of losing 3 points on my P's that I would have them back, then it starts fresh with 12 points on my opens. Guess I was wrong. In the first year of my opens, I had accumulated 7 points, then I get a letter in the mail saying that I am getting close to my demerit point limit. Turns out they added on the 3 points I lost on my P's (now 2 years back) and I have 2 points left on my licence. Luckily though, that first offence was on the 17/01/2006. Six more days and I then have 5 points left on my licence. Haven't lost any on the Aurion yet. All from my Camry. Actually, my last speeding ticket was 3 days before I bought my Aurion. P.S. No need for captain obvious to come along try and give me a speech on my driving.

Looks hot. Just goes to show that a white car is not boring. Very clean on the audio setup as well.

A higher number grade of Dexron is backwards compatible with a lower grade. You won't easily find Dexron II on the market anymore, but as long as you always put a Dexron grade equal to or higher than what you car recommends, you will be fine.

Like lateralus said, it's all about stereotypes. Camry's gained popularity with those that wanted something that was cost efficient, reliable, and got them to where they were going. It just happened to be that a larger percentage of the market that were buying these cars were older people. They weren't overly concerned about how fast it got them there and how stylish the car was. Then as the years went on, the people made stereotypes, and they stuck. How many stereotypes can you think of that will never really change? It's just the way people are. We have had a Camry in the family since 1992 (which also was my first car), and I had always seen the Camry to be a car that was pretty basic, but did its job. I remember the introduction of the Camry Sportivo in 2002. When that happened, I had completely changed my mind about the Camry. The styling of the Sportivo was quite good in my opinion and I actually saw the Camry as a car that I wouldn't mind driving. As the years go on, the Camry is improving quite a bit in the looks department and is actually quite appealing to younger people now. It's just that it will always carry that stereotype and people just don't understand.

Good photoshop. Shame that it shows the car has absolutely NO potential. Edit: I didn't really get the best picture for the size of the car. I was thinking more along the lines of a station wagon. After seeing this video, it appears a bit larger than I though; not that it changes my thoughts on its style: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!And LOL, here is some potential: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

That was my thoughts too but if you check your service book or speak to your local dealer they do not replace the transmission fluid for at least 150000kms. The person i spoke (and the service book condirms this) say they will replace the fluid under severe conditions at 90000kms. Otherwise it is not replaced as part of the normal service. +1 on that one as well. Toyota has opted for some special WS (world standard) automatic transmission fluid. It only needs replacing after about 160,000km as far as Toyota is concerned. This has also led to the removal of the transmission fluid dipstick.

Hopefully they will last for a while. Only time can tell I guess. Shame that the Aurion doesn't simply have the shocks in cartridge form. Gotta change the whole strut. Monroe currently don't have any for the Aurion made for lowered cars. Only for the Fords and Holdens.

I forgot the crucial question... How's the handling now together with the strut bar? Also, how does the Aurion tackle those angled gutters? My driveway isn't cut out so I have the 45 degree section of gutter to overcome firstly. For $450, it is extremely tempting. I need to figure out if it's something I will get over after a while.

Nice work. It's things like this that really tempt me into doing it. You need to get yourself a new set of rims though. I had a feeling that maybe the Aurion would look really good lowered on the Sportivo rims, but it looks like it doesn't complement the drop the best it can. Can't wait to see it in person.

Pretty much. It's her choice if she wants to. I agree to the advice from Silly-Karr though. That's the exact same advice my old man gave to my sister. I was always going to learn manual, so I just had to hear him try and convince her to get an manual licence. Seriously, it is a good skill to have and barely takes any extra to get it. At least you will have a manual licence for when it's needed and you can go and drive an auto all you want. I learnt to drive manual in a 1985 beat up Suzuki Swift. My Dad's words were "if you can drive this POS, you can drive a newer car easily". Since I got my P's, I've owned an auto Camry and now Aurion. It's just handy to have the skill there if needed.

Some of the alloy wheels for Toyota's here are made by ROH, an Australian wheel manufacturer. You will probably find that things like that are supplied to Toyota from an outside manufacturer and not made by them.

Genuine Toyota eyelids huh? Is that even possible, LOL. I am so up for a pair, though for AUD$100, they better be good quality.

It's not that simple to do so yet: 1) It is programmed into the ECU. The only way you are going to override it is to have someone reflash your ECU. I don't think anyone out there is capable of that yet for this car. I would be more than certain that Toyota's Intelligent Tester has some feature to do that, but unless you can find someone with this, I doubt Toyota will do it for you easily. 2) I would lean towards the NO side. This is providing you find someone capable of hacking the ECU. However, I'm not exactly sure on what Toyota do when they plug their system into the ECU during the service. If the system is meant to pick up on any abnormalities, then it could pick it up. It's hard to get a definite answer on that one. 3) So long as you leave the rev limiter intact and/or don't go above redline, the engine should take the extra speed no worries. Engines are most efficient when they are running at their maximum designed speed. Apart from that, they are also built to run within its entire rev range. It's not your speed that will contribute to engine wear, but more the RPM and the variations of it. Going fast isn't going to put much more stress on it than pushing it hard under moderate speed.

He didn't say it is the same price. He said, and quote: Which is understandable. With the fact that they would have the equipment for the job which is used on such a large scale that it is essentially no big cost for them, they can perform the required work at the factory without the need putting a mark-up on the mandrel bending. When you get mandrel bending done, it's not like the person operating the machine needs to exert a lot of effort. The machine does all the work. Operators of a mandrel bender can charge extra for the process simply because they can. In the factory scenario, it would barely make an impact.

As much as I'm not a fan of the style the the Avalon has going with it, the exterior sure has some pimping potential. The cruiser in the second photo is hot; so much so that I would actually drive one like that (minus the cop lights and decals): New avalons at sema (thread from 2005)

You mean lowering your car without changing your springs? That involves cutting your springs. That's something one should never do.

I can't care if its AWD. If it doesn't pass the style test firstly, then I'm not liking it.

Sort of reminds me of a Lincoln in a way. Definitely looks to be a car for an older person though.

Not really a fan of the body. It's proportions don't seem right. It definitely does need to sit lower. Looking at the side profile on the front page reminds me of the front half of the new Honda Accord, and the rear of a Holden Astra hatch.

Good theory there. For a majority of travellers around here in Brisbane, the only stretch of road we have that would be close to that one in your first photo, would be these sections we have of the M1. They opted for cement sections of road instead of asphalt and whenever you go over the joining sections (at 110km/h) you definitely feel a little bounce. Apart from that, our roads aren't too bad. There are some pretty bad areas though where the road just doesn't get fixed.

Sounds like a nice idea. We'll see what everyone is up to when we get there.

If we all make a contribution, I reckon your skills would be highly valuable at our 2009 Annual Meet. Something to keep in mind.