DJKOR

Maybe he just got the wording mixed up. He could have gotten the TRD springs, such as the ones they use in the US for their Gen 6 Camry's. I would imagine that those springs should be a direct fit to our Aurion due to the similarities. If you look at the following thread from Toyota Nation, the height seems to be matching with the ones you're referring to. The Aurion you posted probably looks lower because of the larger rims and due to the tire profile they fill the space that slightest bit more. My new Mod: TRD springs and Pictures of my 2007 Camry (Damn this is one clean Camry) With the second one, you can see the rear is sitting slightly higher than the front. I'm guessing that the TRD springs he got were done not too long prior to the photoshoot, since I have heard a few people on that thread say the TRD springs will sag quite a bit in the rear.

Wouldn't the most simple explanation for the front having more gap be because the front wheels actually have to turn, and this is to prevent the tire hitting the arch. Seems easy and logical to me.

I get this feeling that it may not rain tonight. LOL. I guess we will be at the loop if these conditions hold up then.

Well most people get away with the simple method of adjusting it by ear. In this way you turn your gain on the amp all the way down, put your head unit up to about 3/4 full volume, then slowly increase gain until you hear some clipping, then turn the gain knob back slightly. This is how I've done it in the past, but I want to do it accurately this time around since I spent quite a bit on my sub. I've so far set mine up electronically using a multimeter which should get me fairly close until I can get my hands on an oscilloscope to make sure that it is correct. In the meantime, this is how it is running. The sub has nowhere near as much excursion as the one in the original video I posted at the beginning but bear in mind that my amp is rated at 300W whereas the sub can take up to 400W. The video doesn't quite capture it properly either; it does more a little further than shown. Either way, it would be good to see though how much more I can push it while still keeping it in its boundaries. I'm not a fan of the 'by ear' method since I'm not so good at hearing clipping at lower frequencies. As for the remote gain control, I've always had it mounted within an arms reach beside the A/C controls. I now leave this on 100%, and if the bass is ever too much, I can always turn it down.

Well a screwdriver and a 10mm socket/spanner will do the trick. You don't HAVE to take the bumper off to put the HID's in, but if you want to mount everything 100% absolutely perfect then yes, you're best taking the bumper off.

Yeh ill be out for the 1st time in ages...hey daryl can we meet up at hungries again on the way if that suits u?? cos i have no idea where the 'train' is cheers Yeah, no worries. I will be there around 8:35pm then. Just gotta hold off the temptation to buy food while I'm there.

Holy sh!t that looks f*cking hot!!! The colour and definition looks so sharp... especially with the angle capturing the shape of the bonnet on the right. Good site to take photos as well. The arc lamps and darker surrounding bring out the clean look of the white. Steering off track slightly, I think I my obsession with my Aurion has gone a little too far. Nearly every time I park it, I find myself turning back at least twice to get another look at it. I just can't stop staring at it, especially when parked amongst other cars. I've had it for nearly 8 months and I'm still not over it.

Yeah. Sorry about the diagram. I didn't quite fully understand you wiring description and just put that there to make sure everything is all correct. Did you get a pre-made relay harness or something? If so, then completely ignore that. That was only if you bought a relay and are doing the wiring manually.

A wise decision. Certainly is a little more gutsy than your 07 Corolla eh? And the Aurora Gold was one of the colours that was the primary marketing colour for the Aurion and only came on the Sportivo's; the first unique colour for the Aurion. Man I wish I had a sunroof as well.

I'll be there tomorrow night (which looks like it will be at 'train'). Bit of a bummer that this rain doens't look like it is going to stop anytime soon. I hate it when it rains then stops, rains then stops. I like to keep my car spotless.

As for your stock harness, the standard fuse for the headlights are around 10-15A per side. This is more than sufficient for the standard halogen and will be just fine for HID. When running, the HID's actually draw less current than the stock halogen, however the startup current is much higher for HID. The wiring and fuse in your car will be able to take this increase in startup current mainly because this happens for such a brief period of time. If you want the extra piece of mind though, you can go for the relay setup. Anyways, I've posted an answer to your question over in your thread: HID Problem

I can draw up a diagram for you, but I have a feeling that it will be slightly difficult to understand from my drawing. First things first, determine if your HID's are working. To do this, just connect the ballast directly to the battery. If the lamp flickers but doesn't ignite, then chances are that your lamp is blown. If when you connect the ballast to the battery and nothing happens at the bulb end, your ballast may be screwed. As for connecting it via relay, it isn't 100% necessary as the current draw of the HID's is less than the stock halogen bulbs. Yes it is true that the start up current is higher than the stock bulbs, but the period of this extra power draw is so short that it wouldn't make much of a difference. I use a relay setup on mine, but that is only because I don't want my HID's coming on when I flash my high beams with the headlights off. Regardless, you can never be too safe and for an extra $25 in wiring and relay, you may as well go for a relay. I'm in the process of drawing how to set up the relay. It will be rough as, but at least it should be easy for all to understand. Edit: I said it would be rough, but anyways:

I'm not really mechanically minded, but I generally know that either a larger displacement, an increase in cylinders, or a combination of both will increase torque. My main question is then, what determines the point at which that maximum torque is produced. In other words, how come the 3.5L V6 in the Aurion produces maximum torque of 336Nm @ 4700rpm whereas for example the Holden 3.6L V6 produces maximum torque of 340Nm @ 2600rpm? Surely the extra 0.1L on the Holden V6 can't drasticallly affect the torque/RPM relationship by much right. That's a difference of 2100rpm for when maximum torque is produced. Yeah, I know being a FWD that the extra torque low down wouldn't be of much use, but I'm just curious.

Then in that case the silver works best. Hehehe. I still keep my vote on the Inferno though. Silver is good because it not only hides dust better than the darker colours, and dirt better than white. If you take car of the paint with a good polish and wax, you should be able to keep the silver colour looking clean with minimal effort. As for mine, yes that is Wildfire. The shine that I have it in doesn't come easy though. I wash it EVERY Thursday and then follow it with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax. Sidetracking here, I would highly recommend this wax for a deep shine. You car will shine with a much deeper colour and with excellent gloss. The only disadvantage is that it's protection doesn't last too long and the wax wears down fairly quick; hence my weekly wax. But the hour I spend applying it and the hour I spend buffing it is well worth it in the end. Edit: It's photos like these that make me envy owners of a well kept black car. Anyone addicted to Clay?

My opinions. Diamond White - For the given car, as you said it usually seems like a fleet car in that colour. For some reason however, the Aurion manages to pull it off so well that it is quite sexy in white. Even the Aurion cop cruisers look hot in white. Silver Ash - This is one colour that I really love on the Aurion's. It gives the car the right blend of sleek and sporty whilst giving good definition of its body. In my opinion, the Tungsten colour works better than the Silver Ash in this case. Black (Ink) - One of the sexiest colours for a car. When polished deeply, you can get a unique mirror finish that you just can't beat. Three things I don't like about black however. 1) You notice when it is dusty, 2) I absolutely hate swirls, and black shows them the most. Of course, good car can reduce these, but you can never really prevent it completely. I am really picky about the appearance. And 3) With the Sportivo's, the black hides some of the definition between the trims on the front and rear bumper. Inferno - A bit more unique and less standard than the other colours. Certainly stands out a little more in my opinion and the Mica metallic reflects the light nicely.

Well, guess I wasn't really looking hard enough. Turns out that my Aurion does 'point down' slightly. Measurements are as follows with stock 17 inch rims. Top of rim to bottom of wheel arch: Rear - 145mm Front - 155mm Bottom of side skirt to ground: Rear - 205mm Front - 180mm So I guess that if you were keeping the same drop for the front and rear, the front 'top of rim to bottom of wheel arch' should be 10mm more than the rear.

HAHAHAH... i was gonna say.. just leave it alone... dont worry about it... they can say all they want.. if ppl dont like it then they dont answer... u know? sometimes if u need things to kill time... then its time to read this kind of stuff?? ROFL MAUAHAUH Yeah. What's done is done. Eventually it will fall off into the archives and will be good for laughs when randomly browsing.

Sorry mate. Only had to go about changing the resistor pack over in a 91 Camry, 96 Lancer, and 95 Commodore. Pulled various dashes apart as well, but no Tarago's. As for the cable, they are usually attached over a circular stem which if you squeeze together, can be lifted off. Once again hard to explain without photo's which I don't have at the moment. If you can't remove it on the control end, then yes, you need to go to the other side of the cable. My sister's Mazda 3 can only be done this way.

Well this is where the discussion can divide. Are we looking at the best fuel for economy, power, or engine life? As well, when Toyota states that the power increases to 204kW with premium, do they mean 95 or 98 RON? Premium in my sense would be 95, and 98 would be like the premium of premium. On the power discussion, we need to get a dyno day sorted out. Have one Aurion on 91 RON, another on 95 RON, and another on 98 RON. That way we will be able to find out which fuel would be best for power. I'm sure a QLD dyno day shouldn't be too far off and we have enough Aurion's here to perform that test.

This is hard to explain without photos, but I will try. Usually my first point I check for an A/C blower that is playing up is the resistor pack for it. This is only really applicable to older cars as the newer ones have electronic controls. The resistor pack is usually located in/on the blower fan assembly. You usually access this by taking the glove box out so you can access behind it. Then on the blower fan assembly, usually on the joining ducting, there will be a small section approximately about 3cm x 5cm secured by a couple of screws. This section contains different lengths of resistance wire that is used to adjust the speed of the blower motor. Chances are, one or more of these resistors have been blown.

Hehehe. Did you have a late night last night SupaTouring? I think mpresara is thinking of getting rims with +35 offset, not for the wide look but because he can obtain it easier/cheaper. If he was to machine 10mm off from it like vintageholden said, wouldn't it go to +45.

So long as no one goes over the top again, I'm sure mrs.sportivo will be fine.

Maybe this quick image will show you something. MS Paint FTW. From what I can see, the car is still level. Is it not meant to be like that and should the front of the car sit lower than the back? To me, having the car sitting level like that seems correct.

One thing I just learnt was that taking photos of the actual process was harder than the process itself. This is how I go about swapping the bulbs around (4 Aurion's done and counting): 1) First step obviously: 2) I prefer to unplug the light. Useful for when the original bulb is hot and/or you want to remove it as shown in step 4: 3) Then grip onto the light as shown, squeeze (only enough to grip both halves), then pull: 4) Easiest way to pop the bulb out is as follows. Useful for when the original incandescent bulb is hot. DO NOT do this without doing step 2. the metal you see there is GND and +12v. You don't really want to short it out accidentally: 5) Then once you are done swapping hte bulb, you can put the housing back together by reversing the steps. Just make sure the lower part (opposite the power connector) is aligned properly as shown. It may take a little force to get it to click back together: Edit: Just saw eSEXSIX's response. That is another way to do it as well. Doesn't work when you have larger fitting LED's though as there isn't much clearance when you squeeze it in.

I would jump in first with some photo's but I'm at work for another 2.5 hours. If someone else doesn't beat me to it (or if you figure it out which you most likely will), I will post photo's here. At least for future reference anyways.