DJKOR

Ok clarfication if i was to go on ebay a search like "T-10 style LED (RED)" would probebly get me a selection of what iam looking for. Sorry to sound lke a dumb ***** but I usually would just go to repco but they alreaduy gave me my marching orders :o To difficult to get!!! Lucky you didn't buy from Repco/Super Cheap Auto. They sell LED's like the ones in the first two pictures below. Those ones are insanely dim. Keyring lights are brighter than those. Ideally, you will want ones that are similar to the one in the third picture below. If you want to search eBay, use a parameter such as "T10 LED SMD" or "T10 LED refractor". The red ones are a bit more limited than colours such as white or blue. A little warning though. The "SMD" parameter may turn up the 1W LED's such as the one shown in the fourth picture. Stay clear of those because even if they look bright... and they really are; they burn out rather quickly.

Do you mean how effective the traction control is? If so, I'm not sure of the appropriate way to describe it. I've intentionally tested mine for some piece of mind and unintentionally had it activated due to some unexpected road conditions. The ABS does it's job quite effectively with absolutely no delay. The traction control however seems to be a bit laggy and in the case of wheel spin, takes a bit of slip for it to activate. I have been able to create a fair amount of wheelspin from accelerating too hard whilst partially turning and the traction control has ignored that. In the case of sliding on the road however, it kicks in fairly quickly (point 2 below). 1) From 80km/h on a restricted road (both wet and dry), with the aid of ABS/traction control, the Aurion was able to come to a complete stop with a hard application of the brake whilst maintaining a straight line and without any slip. The ABS however is quite noisy and sounds like a hammer hitting on the wheels. 2) Going around a roundabout in the wet following one of those new Clubsport R8's which was going at about 50km/h. Usually this roundabout isn't a problem, but at the time the road was a bit more slick than usual. I was watching him as he went through and when he exited I noticed his rear end slip about 30cm to the right. I kinda laughed then as I went around at the same speed, I felt my rear slip a little and I could hear the traction control doing its job, pretty much instantly. I would say my rear end slipped out by about a third of what the HSV did and it was certainly easy to keep control of my car. In relation to how it felt, it felt light on the rear end but was driving as if I hadn't even slipped. Had there have been no traction control, my guess is that I would have slipped about 60cm before I would have reacted to make any corrections. As I said, it's hard to explain. The best way to say it is that when you need the traction control, it is going to be there and it will be really effective. In situations when it isn't really that necessary, the system feels a bit unresponsive and you end up questioning its effectiveness.

With the search parameters of "traction control", you will find this thread: Turning off TRC (Traction Control)

When it comes to the interior lights (dome, map, and door lights), I personally prefer white for functionality and cleanliness. If I want something more fancy and attention grabbing, I would add neons; my personal preference is blue. That's what I did in my old car. I was 18 at the time and it looked wicked. As well, I changed all my dash lights to blue LED's, but the Aurion already has a nice setup for that already. Edit: I probably answered the wrong question there. If you are referring to the type of LED's, since you will be working with mostly T10 style, you should aim to get ones with as many LED's built into them as possible. I prefer the ones that consist of multiple surface mount (SMD) or high flux LED's. I usually get mine from eBay for convenience and for the selection. I would advise to steer away from Luxeon style ones (commonly described as 1Watt or greater LED's) as they have a tendency to burn out due to overheating.

The style of camera that I have is the '167' one that you have shown. I'm not sure about the other Aurion's out there, but mine didn't exactly have a cutout for the camera. It appeared that AurionZR6 (who wrote up a detailed reverse camera installation DIY) had a cutout but your mileage may vary. My Aurion had a area marked out for where a camera could mount, but I needed to drill and hack away at it to fit the camera. It was just a stencil in the plastic. In that sense however, the '169' style camera that you have shown may be too large to fit the standard mounting hole, but you could easily just hack at the plastic and make it fit neatly for a stealth installation.

Hehehe. Just the resulting knowledge of working on my own car I guess. Enjoying working on electronics helps as well when it comes to the electrics. I pretty much know everything in the cabin and cargo areas down to the body itself. The only sections of trim inside that I haven't taken out yet are the dash, the doors, and the roof liner. Those will be on a "needs only" basis. The doors would probably come soon if I wish to change my speakers. I haven't worked on the engine yet either. I've only gone as far as pulling out all the intake components, but that's about it. One day I'll get there. It just amazes me though how easily the workers over at Toyota can assemble these cars. I've toured a Toyota plant in Nagoya, Japan and watching them put cars together on a production line, you would think it is quite simple. Speaking of which though, the one thing I love about Toyota's is how relatively easy they are to pull apart when you compare them to other cars such as Holden. The good thing with this forum is that others have different needs with working on their car. Such example is JIN who was able to post his experience with removing the front and rear bumper. By having members post what they have done, you can build up all this information on working with the car. Now all we need is someone who to come along and work with the engine, then that should expand the knowledge available for the Aurion. This is about as far as my knowledge of taking apart the interior goes:

Hehehe. It's a nice colour isn't it? Not being biased or anything, LOL. Anyways, they still produce the Wildfire Mica, just only for the AT-X and Prodigy grades. I don't know why they went along with that decision. Usually all the Wildfire ones I see are the AT-X. I don't see all that many Wildfire Sportivos around Brisbane. If I do, it's usually a cop car.

Using a small screwdriver as shown in the attached photos, you can "pop" the covers off the lights. With the centre dome light, there is another point on the opposite side of the switch in the same are as the one shown. You can even see the groove if you look carefully. If you have the sunroof and have the rear map lights, I can't really help you there. I think I heard about them being slightly more difficult, but I am yet to see that and judge it for myself. As for the door lights, that's a no-brainer. Just insert said screwdriver in any portion of the upper part of the light and lever out. Excuse the over exposed photos. My digital camera is flat and my K850 has a tendency to over-expose with the flash.

if its mounted in projector does it means that the light that the HID produce will be further since its more concentrated? or is the length that the beam reaches to is still the same just that it doesn't shine all over the place? The advantage of the projector is that the light can be directed fairly well. Just with any other headlight however, the distance that the light can project is covered by a set of standards. In general though, having projectors is quite effective against glare. The cutoff of projectors can be fairly annoying though. One example is when driving around mountain areas the area of illumination is fairly restrictive and limits visibility. As well, if someone with projectors is following you, due to the sharp cutoff, it can look like they are flashing their headlights as you/they go over bumps in the road. With the creation of self-leveling projectors and adaptive lighting, these disadvantages are not that much of an issue, but are still there nevertheless.

That would be a D2S lamp base then, which would be completely pointless for someone with a standard H11 headlight housing. We would need to change the headlight housing as well. No genuine kit whether it be from Toyota, Phillips, Bosch, etc, will come with a halogen style lamp base. but cant you just fit the D2S bulbs right in? Dont they just have a clip that locks in the bulbs not a twist one? We did it in another aurion car which was a touring and it worked real good. The H11 is a twist-mount and does not use a clip to hold the bulb in like H4, etc. Not saying that with a bit of creativity it cannot be done, but I would be interested to see how the D4S would be mounted in a H11 holder.

I spent a total of $25 for all my T10 LED's (parkers, door lights, map lights), $29.95 on the main dome light (12VDC Auto Interior LED Lamp Kit), and $24.95 on the light in the boot(12VDC Flexible 21 LED Lights). For the festoon style bulbs, Jaycar has them but they are a bit more pricey. As well, there is a limit as to how bright those festoon style replacements get. That's why I used the one that I have linked above. It comes with a fitting that allows you to put it into a festoon style base. This is a picture of my dome light setup and boot light.

The serious HID retrofit problems come from HID's mounted in reflector style housings. Now that is some bad glare. When you mount the HID's into a projector housing though, a lot of the glare is reduced. Not saying it's gone completely or anything; it's just not as much of a problem.

That was one of my reasons as well. Many a time in my old Camry, I have had my battery run down to the point where the car wouldn't turn over due to interior lights and parkers left on. LED's helped to reduce the chance of that happening. On the Aurion though, with all it's fool proof circuits, this is less likely to happen but it's always good to have less power consumption.

Well according to the manual, the Presara with its HID's would use the D4S lamp base. As for colour temperature, most OEM bulbs are 4,300k.

That would be a D2S lamp base then, which would be completely pointless for someone with a standard H11 headlight housing. We would need to change the headlight housing as well. No genuine kit whether it be from Toyota, Phillips, Bosch, etc, will come with a halogen style lamp base.

Well that's the thing with trying to take photos of such a thing. Photos 5 and 6 are closest to what it looks like in person. The doors can probably go brighter with a little bit of foil due to the design of the door light cavity and the LED replacement. I will probably try that later. Not too fussed though. Looks way better than a yellow bulb for such a cheap mod.

I have an IR reverse camera for mine. It came with my head unit, but it is one of the IR ones you can get from eBay as well. I have mentioned it, together with my a few words on installation here: Reverse camera To answer your questions: 1) There is quite a bit of discussion about CCD vs. CMOS. CCD's do offer better low light performance, but do cost more than CMOS. In the case of the reverse camera, if you were going for the best low light performance, CCD would be the way to go, but personally I don't think it's worth the extra money in this scenario. 2) This all depends on what you have to work with. If you read my tread posted above, you will see that I was quite restricted in my mounting options. I eventually used the most typical spot for camera mounting which is right above the number plate. Mine is mounted through the boot lid itself with an opening cut in the plastic trim surrounding it to enable the camera to have a decent view. 3) Well my IR camera is an eBay style unit, so I guess you can say that I've installed one. Day performance is excellent and the field of view is great. Night time performance in complete darkness is alright, but due to my mounting position, a lot of IR light is reflected back at the camera at a close proximity which clouds up the image. I will be working on a solution for this (sealing the surrounding area) when I eventually have some time.

The wording was a bit wrong. The HID H11 base didn't break due to bad alignment, it broke in the process of trying to trim it to fit. Long story short; being a cheap kit (mine anyways) the diameter to the edge of the three tabs on the lamp base was a fraction too large. The plastic had to be trimmed slightly so that it would fit into the assembly and since it is a form of brittle plastic, one tab just couldn't take it. Nothing I'm too annoyed with. After all, I got what I paid for; and for $70, my kit is still going strong.

Did you mean Inferno or Wildfire? I'll take the benefit of the doubt and say you meant Wildfire. Why... because that colour rocks. LOL. I don't personally hate the green Aurion. Green is my favourite colour, but more specifically in the racing green variety. The good thing about the green Aurion like you said, is that there aren't many other cars of the same colour and therefore it stands out. It's like a yellow car... they are more noticeable out in the crowd. Each to their own on personal colour preferences.

Unless you feel like parting with more money, just get a kit off eBay. The price of aftermarket HID retrofit kits these days is insane. As I've said over at "Has anyone installed Bosch HID conversion kit?": They are at a price where you can afford to take your chance with it in my opinion. Just make sure you connect them through a relay if possible; should the ballast go bonkers, at least it won't blow your stock wiring harness. Some time ago when I first bought a set of HID's, they were around the $300 mark and a set of Phillips Blue Vision Halogens cost around the same as HID kits these days.

As I said, here are some photos. I've taken a few... feel like showing off the clean white light. You will notice the side markers aren't really all that bright on the ground. I'm not too fussed on changing them to something brighter since the main purpose was to just change all bulbs to LED's. I don't see any purpose other than for letting others notice that the door is open, and the intensity of the light is enough to notice that. With headlights: Without headlights:

As mentioned in my signature, all my interior bulbs have been swapped for LED's. These are my photos of my door side markers. I will take a photo tonight to show how it illuminates the surrounding area. It takes about 3 minutes to swap all door lights.

Okay, I have never removed this trim in the past, but for the benefit of others, I have gone ahead and done so. Just like most other things in this car, it is held down by clips. Just take a look at the photos and you can figure it out from there. All I used was a jewelers screwdriver.

In the meantime, I will upload my photos. It is really hard to capture the true look and colour of the light with just my point-and-shoot camera. The last photo with the closeup of the light is the closest to the actual colour of the light and to what it looks like in person.

There was some discussion about if parker lights over at: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=15501 Over there, I mentioned the best LED's to use and put some photos for reference.