DJKOR

I'll still be there. I got nothing else to do around that time so if anyone else decides to rock up, I will meet ya there. I would have thought the meet would be at 9pm unless otherwise stated. I'll probably be there a little earlier though. Depends on what I'm up to before hand.

Out of curiosity, why remove the carbon filter? I assume you are referring to the black canister that sits behind the engine, which is primarily designed to re-use vapor from the fuel? No, not the charcoal canister. Messing with that would also introduce a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light). I've heard of the MIL coming on over something as simple as a loose fuel tank cap. If the system is that sensitive, I wouldn't want to mess with it. That system is still intact, and still vents into the intake through the larger hose in the photo below. In my post, I was referring to the activated carbon filter in the top of the air filter box (refer to picture below). That filter has the sole purpose of preventing any fuel vapor from exiting the intake and venting into the atmosphere. This filter only comes of use when the engine is off, so it plays no part in 'recycling' fuel vapors. According to the service manual:

All you need to be able to do with the ScanGauge is run a cable. It is purely as easy as plugging it into the OBDII port located next to the bonnet release, running the cable to where ever you please, and plugging the other end of the cable into the ScanGauge. As for the analogue gauges... that might work. You would want to blend it into the dash well though so it looks really clean.

I'm curious to see the result of the Fujita intake versus the stock intake with the resonators and activated carbon filter removed as I have done. Does it cost much to use a dyno? We have one here only 40 seconds down the road. I'd be willing to put mine on it for the sake of comparison.

How about the ScanGaugeII? You can switch that between imperial and metric. It may not be as pretty as the Dash Hawk, but it's pretty much the same thing. I was planning on getting one for the fun of it.

From what I've heard, the "Check VSC System" warning will come up with all check engine light errors. The odd revving issue you're talking about sounds like what happened to mine the other day. I was messing around with my intake one night and before I went to sleep, I remembered that I forgot to plug my MAF sensor back in. I told myself the next day that I would plug it back in before I leave, and what do I do... I wake up late and in the rush, I start the car without plugging it back in. I get the odd revving and a check engine light immediately afterwards. I stop the engine plug it back in and the check engine light was still there. Once the car started rolling, the "Check VSC System" warning came up. I was in a rush, so once I got to TAFE, I removing the EFI Main fuse, and when lunch time came, I replaced it and check engine light was gone. In that case though, I knew the problem so resetting the ECU was an okay option. Long story short... it could possibly be your MAF sensor. The strange revving you mention sounds like the engine running in fail-safe mode. I guess you will soon find out.

That's one reason why I try to avoid using it. The car is so smooth that with my music on, I seem to always forget to upshift. I would be cruising down the highway with it in 3rd or 4th and only realise when I take a glance at the tacho. I usually only use it when I am cruising in dense traffic (like at 50-60km/h) and want to match the speed that everyone is moving at without having to use the brakes all the time as they slow down a fraction.

Count me for next Thursday (21st) as well. I'll remember to bring a jacket this time around.

Can I request for a TRD Aurion Supercharger. Hehehe.

On my usual eBay browsing, I came across these: eBay: Toyota Aurion Sports Suspension Springs Shame that I don't live close by to the seller. I would be tempted to buy those otherwise... even though I reckon having my car lowered would be a PITA given all the different places I drive around.

The remote shown above is for the keyless ignition system (Smart Key) such as on the Presara and Sportivo ZR6.

Insulate the clips eh? The creaking on mine sounds a little more extensive than that. Hard to really define what it all comes down to in the end. The minor flexing in the dash is certainly doing something. With all this messing around with Toyota that seems to be all the go to get it fixed, I'm regretting that I didn't read up about all this dash creaking prior to reassembling my car. I had it down to the point where I could have easily removed the dash, yet I didn't think there was a need to at the time. I 'could' utilise my spare time today to pull it all apart (I predict that it will take me a total of around 4 hours to ensure I do everything I can), but I'm tossing up whether or not I can be bothered to now.

Do you mean removing the head unit? If so, I have a rough guide over at: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=16676 Excuse the lack of link naming or linking to the exact post. Our work computer restricts forum access so I'm posting this on my phone.

Thursday's are my usual day off for everything. I'm working this Thursday... but I conveniently finish at 7:30pm. So you can definitely count me in. I work close by in the Gabba, so I'll be there early. See you there.

That's why I really wanted to avoid that whole approach, and just use what I had been given with the stock intake. After having a pod filter on my last car, I didn't like the idea of the oil residue that gets left behind. Luckily that car had a vane-type MAF sensor which didn't seem to care much about the oil. For my Aurion, I was considering a dry foam filter together with a SRI, but just from the idea alone, I wouldn't trust it.

Everything I have done would have done absolutely nothing to help performance, but IMO it has given my engine a more deeper note when I open the throttle up. I started by swapping my vacuum hoses around so that the upper intake path was always open, then I proceeded to block off the lower resonator. I figured, if I have already done something about the lower resonator, I may as well do something about the upper on. This is the end result: When you really put your foot down, it really does sound a little meaner. It's hard to believe that simply swapping something around like that can make a difference. But then again, if the original resonator that was there was useless, it wouldn't be there in the first place. As well, I figured I may as well just use the standard intake setup for the rest since it is fairly decent in itself. I'll consider putting a K&N panel filter in to maybe reduce any restriction and further improve on the engine note. Edit: Shortened the pipe, and painted it black.

I'd probably prefer if I changed the oil and filter every 7,500km; that's just me. After hearing all this, I'll just do that myself now at mid 15,000km service intervals. Thank you beaves and dharsh for the heads up on that. I only had my 30,000km service in mid June, and right now my car is on 36,000km. Had you have not said anything, I would have booked in to get a service for 37,500km. All I need now is the oil filter cap removal tool so I can swap my oil out.

Really? My service logbook shows a service every 7,500km.

I think many people out there wish the same. It's one of those nuisances though that you just have to live with when you realise what car it is you purchased. Toyota was aiming for comfort and not track performance when they designed the gearbox, so I guess that is the end result. From what I heard, the ECU is well encrypted to prevent anyone but Toyota from messing with it. All we need is some genius out there to figure some way around it all. I'm not holding my breath though.

Yeah, back in the 90's, they used to have a clip which locked the lever till it's full. They seemed to have disabled them all now. If I ever need to step more than an arms length away from the pump, I just wedge my fuel tank cap under the lever. Does the job, just a little slower. As for the filling issue, it's all about the right angle. At least on the Aurion you can find a sweet spot. On my sister's old Excel, there was no ideal position; now that was annoying.

It appears that the fusible links are screwed down. There is no need to remove it though to tell if it's okay. Just get a bright light and shine it through one end and view it from the other. The two of them are stepped in such a fashion that it allows you to view it without removing it. As well, if there was a blown fusible link, you shouldn't miss it since the plastic surrounding it would be a little discoloured. If all the fuses are fine, most likely it is an alternator problem, possibly with the pulley. The car will operate okay, but it all depends on how far you need to go to get to your service centre. If the alternator was busted, you would be relying purely on your battery to provide ignition for the engine. It all comes down to how much charge is in your battery. Judging by the fact you said you drove around with your headlights and stereo on, it may be a little low and your car possibly might not make it to your service centre.

That guy could have saved a little mess by doing it the way he should have. Around the 1:00 mark, he removes the oil filter casing without first draining it. You can see the plastic attachment that he removes from the filter at the 2:50 mark. From the service manual: 1) Connect the hose with an inside diameter of 15 mm (0.59 in.) to the pipe. 2) Remove the oil filter drain plug from the oil filter cap. 3) Insert the pipe with the hose into the oil filter cap. NOTICE: Be sure to insert the pipe with the O-ring installed on the oil filter cap side. HINT: Place the hose end into a container before draining the oil from the hose. 4) Make sure that oil is completely drained, and remove the pipe and O-ring. HINT: Be sure to turn the pipe in the direction of the arrow to remove it.

Usually when you get the battery warning light, even after the car is started, it is a problem with the charging system. Whether or not this was caused by the installation of your stereo or by coincidence, I wouldn't know. Since this is a relatively new car, I doubt the brushes in the alternator would be stuffed. If any fuse was blown in relation to the power that the alternator supplies, it would be a fusible link which is one of those two big blue things you talk about. Blowing that takes quite a bit (alternator fault), so there is a good chance that the fault isn't there. There is another fuse box in the car located in the area underneath and behind the glove box. Just remove the trim that joins the glove box underneath to remove. I would try and inspect those firstly, then the fusible links before taking it into Toyota. EDIT: You know... in the midst of thinking about the electrics, I failed to think of one simple problem as well. Your alternator drive belt may have come off. For a relatively new car, you wouldn't picture it happening, but there is always the possibility. If you are able to inspect that area, that would be a good thing to check out as well.

You know what? To pull the head unit forward, the A/C controls were one of the first connectors to be disconnected. Being the curious type, I will go downstairs and checked it out. Here are some further observations. These are with my new aftermarket Auspack head unit. Disconnecting everything from the head unit and only leaving the steering wheel harness connected, the DISP button works in switching the in-dash display between page; and this is with the aftermarket unit. Disconnecting the A/C controls have no effect on whether or not the DISP button works. Now for the aftermarket unit, it makes use of the following wiring harness: To connect to the steering wheel harness: Now only the PINK, ORANGE, and YELLOW wires are used; which is to be expected since the PURPLE one is for the speedo sense. On the aftermarket wiring harness, the ORANGE and YELLOW wires are joined together by means of a 2k ohm resistor (measuring 1.976k ohms). So therefore, there are only two wires connecting to the head unit essentially. I have used these two wires to get resistance measurements, though I doubt this would be of any use. This is the reading looking at the steering wheel buttons through the harness without it connected to anything. All figures are average: No button pressed: 40.77 ohms Volume down: 2.9k ohms Volume up: 1.0k ohms Seek down: 330 ohms Seek up: 1.2 ohms Mode: 1.93k ohms DISP: [wouldn't stay steady on one value] approximately 0.2 ohms Another interesting thing to note is that without the steering wheel harness connected into anything, the buttons will not light up when the parkers are turned on.

That's the intake valve bypass that I was talking about initially. It opened by a electronic vacuum switching valve located to the left of it. It is opened up at highway speeds, which I am guessing that would be around 60km/h+. I wouldn't have a clue. The manual doesn't state it either. So holding it open would just create extra noise (which isn't much), and in my opinion, the extra air flow can't be a disadvantage right?