DJKOR

I remember reading that as well. I can't remember the thread. I was like that at first, but now I've gotten used to it to the point that it just isn't as exhilarating as it used to be. It's about time for a supercharger, lol. The user-settable over-speed warning that is integrated into the clock above the centre A/C vents. I have mine set at 130km/h.. only because it doesn't go any higher. Actually, it's useful when testing your 0-100 times. Just set it to 100km/h then when you first hear it beep, you stop the stopwatch. I guess it's all about the 'official' published figure. Toyota don't mention in their specifications on their site that the Aurion can produce 204kW with premium unleaded.

Say the battery goes flat in the remote and you are not at home... and your car is locked.

Whoa. That is a rip. When you consider that the chipped key for the non smart entry cost me $110.88, you would think that a key blade with no chip in it would be much cheaper. Toyota's part pricing for the Aurion is all over the place. The Airbag module, which can cost up to $600 on some cars, was only $125 from Toyota. And the side mirror assembly with motor and indicator.... $66.50. A key blank costing more than a side mirror... what a joke.

Yeah. Cruising Nebo at night sure is fun. It's not a bad drive actually. I was surprised when I first travelled it that the speed limit was mostly 80km/h which is quite thrilling for most people giving the width of the road (though you can usually go higher, I don't condone that behaviour ). If you're not familiar with it though just remember; you need to slow down on the parts where one lane is at a different height to others. Not much room for error there.

The ECU has a mode that allows you to de-register keys in addition to adding them. It would be expected that you do that before passing the key on for someone else to use. When you think about it as well, should the key stay registered, one would need to find the car it is registered to first if they wanted to steal it. It's like the lock and key idea. There are not enough tumbler/pin combinations out there to have only one of each key. There is a good chance that the physical key you have will unlock another lock. It's just that you probably will never find that other lock.

I have a feeling that the guy at Toyota said that to make you buy directly from them. Just like how they told me not to beleive what they say on forums about the Fulcrum suspension part fix, and that they could do a wheel alignment to fix the veering to the left issue. With the remote, the code is stored in it, and pairing it with the car should not make any changes to it. All that they do is program the ECU in the car to recognise a particular key. I could be wrong, but I guess Mohit would be able to confirm this.

It doesn't appear to be on the Aurion Microsite anymore. I've tried to search around for it and haven't come across it either. I thought at least Youtube may have a copy of it, but I guess not.

Well I guess it's effects can't really be detrimental right? He will soon find out whether or not it has helped. It's labelled as a Camry strut bar, but that's for fitment purposes. Since the Aurion and Camry pretty much share the same frame, the the bar would be a perfect fit for the Aurion. I'm sure there was extra R&D put into the TRD, but if you looks at the standard strut bracing (that is integrated into the car body), it is no different to the non TRD Aurions. As well, if Ultra Racing was to market a strut bar for the Aurion, I could guarantee you that it would be exactly the same as the Camry one.

That's a bit of a bummer. They should have provided a blank with the smart key itself. You're best bet would be to call up your local Toyota spare parts department. I'm pretty sure they will have them for sale. Since it's just they key blade you're after, it shouldn't cost much. As for the programming, you will need to take your car and all keys to a Toyota service department unless you can get your hands on an intelligent tester: You will be looking at around $30 and anywhere between 30-60 minutes for the whole procedure depending on how good your service department is.

Phew... that's a relief. With the way all the photos were taken, it seemed like installation was complete by that point. Mind me; just being a bit too safety conscious there.

I'm not liking how there isn't much bolt left on the strut tower for the nut to join onto. I'd be curious though to see how much of a difference the additional bracing would provide, given that the Aurion already has additional strut bracing there to start with.

That was the entire point of this thread. Aurion ZR6 gave the instructions at the beginnning on how to install a reverse camera on the stock navigation unit.

Yeah, I figured. At that height it appears that there is no clearance to turn the wheels. The body kit it has on it seems to be lower than normal, so even at ride height, it would still sit fairly low to the ground.

Damn that looks hot. If only our roads were completely flat.

Do simple dyno runs just to obtain power/torque details cost much? If not, I can head down the road to my local dyno and get a graph for my Aurion. Only problem is, I've changed my intake ever so slightly so that it is not quite stock any more. Though my changes are ones that nearly all Aurion owners can do, so I guess in a way it can give an idea of what $30 vs. $350 can do. Even though I spent $30 on mine, I would be guessing it would be no different to a stock Aurion anyway, so the comparison would still be right.

Probably too late now since it all all back together (I understand not everyone can take their stereo out in under 2 minutes), but all you need to have plugged in is the steering wheel control harness. It would work fine with just that plugged in, plus since the steering wheel control is independent of your head unit, would not cause interference that way. Without seeing your exact setup I can't really make a judgement, but having the original circuit board plugged in parallel with another head unit (power and audio) isn't exactly the best. It may just be a board, but with power applied to it, it has the potential to create interference for your aftermarket head unit. That would explain the noise you had. It may be good now, but anything can happen.

Yeah, looks like the interest in that one was short lived over here: K&N Performance Intake Kit LOL; shows that the rims were definitely worth more discussion. Anyways, the Americans over at the Toyota Nation forums have been talking about aftermarket intakes for the 2GR-FE. One thread I can direct you to: "K&N Typhoon or just stick with K&N drop-in filter?" They have pretty much come to the conclusion that a CAI or SRI is a waste of time and money. In the words of TRD VVTi:

dannywss has a good point. It will still have the sound, but performance my go back to normal after a few days. This is how I imagine it: Because it is drive-by-wire, the throttle valve position can be independent of accelerator position. These are comparative figures so you can get the gist of it. Eg. With stock intake, depressing the accelerator to 80% would open the throttle to 80%. The ECU knows how much air would have a baseline which knows how much air would be going through the engine at a given RPM. Now say you were to improve the intake and improve the air flow for the engine. Say this made a difference; when you depress the accelerator to 80%, it gets the equivalent amount of air intake as it would at say 85% on the accelerator. The ECU, not knowing that this is intentional, tries to make adjustments to make it match its baseline setup. As a result, the ECU adjusts the throttle valve to open to 75% whenever you depress the accelerator to 80%. I dunno, what would happen at 100% accelerator since I'm pretty sure if you put your foot all the way to the floor, the throttle valve would open 100%, therefore if there were any gains, this would be where it would be noticed. That's just how I imagine the system to work. I guess the only way to find out is to connect some system up to all of it to do a full analysis of it all. That's what seems to happen with DBW cars.

Nice work mate. You should hit up v8toy and do a road dyno; I'm curious. It would be interesting to see the result. Don't let your mind play tricks on you though. When I unrestricted my intake, it sure sounded meaner when taken above 4000 RPM especially under load as well as 'feeling' like it had a better throttle response on launch. But I know my mind was just thinking that. My 0-100 time had absolutely no improvement, still sitting at 7.12 seconds. On a side note, thanks to the 'learning' ECU and drive-by-wire, there is a quick way to get better throttle response. Once your car is warmed up (and your at a standstill obviously), stop the engine for about 30 seconds, then start it up again. Now give your car a 'good' run such as planting your foot down, redlining etc. Do that for a little bit (highways help) and you are bound to notice now that it will respond better. Though the next time you drive it in a relaxed style for a few minutes or so, it will start to chill out again.

TV antenna's on a car is not always the easiest thing to integrate. When it comes to TV reception, a Yagi antenna is on of the best designs. Problem is, it is directional and on a car, is pretty much impossible. Therefore you are left with a variety of dual or quad mast antenna's. For best reception, you are best mounting on the exterior of the car. You can get ones that are like mobile phone car kit antenna's that stick on both sides of the glass as well. That will save you from running cables to the outside of the car. Otherwise you could go for a boomerang design like the limos have, LOL. But even still; reception is pretty subjective to your location. If you absolutely must have TV, antenna's like this would provide you with decent reception if you are willing to sacrifice the clean looks on the outside of your car:

The only ones of us here reporting about the steering wheel buttons not working are those with a generic aftermarket unit. When I say generic, I mean ones that are made to fit any car using the DIN standard. My steering wheel buttons work fine, as do all the others here that have the Auspack unit which is the same one that you have. Sorry for any confusion. Aftermarket can be a pretty broad term.

lolz, more likely to start from a truck or van? lolz hahaha... that car, wont go anywhere ey... wouldnt even go into a car park building ROFL Try reversing...wont happen if the winds blowing from behind you. I wonder if that has LIFT.

1. natedog11six 2. ROL14 3. mickwheelz 4. Evo7 5. TRD Aurion Owner 6. DJKOR 7. 8. 9. 10.

ROFL. But yeah; the more and more I see the grill, the more I like it. My first reaction to seeing these grills was that it was too open at the front. I kinda like it now.

if u hv said this 10 mins earlier.. coz i just bought another one from facias... You should have backtracked a little bit before hand. :P You were aware that Toyota had them for around $30 right? Toyota Aurion Double Din???