DJKOR

Mate; I'm confused as well. To seriously get to the bottom of it, one would need to trace all the wires to see where they go to, including pulling out the speedo. That would really help to get a better understanding. All I know is that by unplugging the cable from the head unit, you loose display functionality, so this is more than just following cables. Sorry, but I'm not that good at reverse engineering digital circuits.

From what I can see, the MAF appears to be located in the area I've circled in red. Would I be close dannywss?

Well the service logbook firstly shows what they need to replace (usually engine oil and filter), then a list of things they need to check or perform. The Toyota Service Department then just prints out your invoice which states everything that they have done, which should show everything in accordance to the logbook. Then they just put a stamp in the logbook and sign it off. This is my first car which has required logbook service, so I'm guessing this is what normally happens. I guess I just need to trust that they really inspected everything like they said they did.

My bad. That's pretty bad wording on Toyota's behalf on their Toyota Service Advantage website on their Terms & Conditions page: According to my service book, up to and including the 60,000km service, that is 8 services. So from my understanding of reading that statement, I would believe that the first 8 services were covered providing you cover that within the first 3 years.

Hey dannywss; how good are those foam filters? The only reason that was stopping me from putting on a Short Ram Intake or Cold Air Intake was the potential for the MAF sensor to get dirty with oil from a pod filter or whatnot. I considered using a foam filter, but have hesitated since I have doubts about their effectiveness. Hey apg39; the Fujita intake is a Cold Air Intake. There appears to be space for a pod filter to be mounted low. This is on a Gen6 Camry, but it would be pretty much the same: ToyotaNation: Gen 6 Fujita Intake INSTALLED PICS!

Just like you said, all I did was swap the vacuum hoses around so that the upper intake valve stays open and blocked off the lower resonator. I actually blocked off the resonator and did not remove it. I used a small section of thick plastic sheet (like the stuff used in ponds and whatnot) and attached it in such a way that it blocks off the connection between the intake tube and lower resonator. I figured there is no point taking it out of the engine bay when i can simply just block it off. I failed to take photos during the process, so sorry I couldn't help there. However, there is a nice guide written up over at the Toyota Nation forum, so I guess that saves on the extra writeup: 'as promissed.. Lower Intake Resonator removal DIY' I was considering putting on an intake such as a Fujita intake, but that is purely because I love the sound of it. My old Camry had a pod filter on it, and man it sounded so much better when you opened it up. Here is a clip of a Fujita intake on a Gen6 Camry: YouTube: 2007 toyota camry with fujita intake pt#ca-3318 In that respect, a change of intake is only just going to give you a better note and looks, which for most people, is what they are after. For anyone wishing to open their upper intake path all the time, just connect the valve directly to the vacuum line. I left the pipe attached to the switching valve on the left because it not only prevents the insides of the switch getting dirty, but it lets me change it back to normal without having to find some spare tube. There is probably no real advantage to doing this except for increasing intake noise. Those that say it increases throttle response are probably imagining it. The way I see it, it's just another path to let air get to the filter, so opening it would be of no harm.

Bearing in mind the Toyota Service Advantage plan is valid for the first eight services (60,000km or 3 years), that comes to a total of of about $1000 savings in service should you have that plan. If you buy ex-rental and save much more than $1000 in comparison to another 2nd hand car, then you would be getting a good deal. With respect to the warranty; a warranty for a car should always be transferrable even if you purchase your car from a auction. The only time it wouldn't apply is if something was done to void it; but that's just common sense. My car has a limited warranty (yet to find out what that means from Toyota), but considering what it had been through/the amount I purchased it for, that would be expected.

They can access information about the car from their database using the VIN number. Usually rental cars start their life as just that, so when they are delivered, the VIN is recorded in their system as such. The warranty would still exist, just not anything that was deemed to be excluded (such as that service plan) due to the nature of the vehicle. At the price I paid for mine, I'm not complaining.

On the website: Mine is 2nd hand from one of those categories. It was a repairable write-off as well. Don't think any of that would remain valid anymore even if it did have it.

Yeah mate. My 30k service was quoted at $309 which included a wheel alignment. I wasn't satisfied with their service overall, so I'm heading elsewhere next time.

Luckily not. One massive plate payment only.

Just mind me. Nothing major. I'm just unbelievably picky, that's all. Whoever was responsible for sticking mine on probably messed up. When I see mine, I see it horizontal and parallel with the ground (such that you can notice that the 'o' in Sportivo is further away from the light than the 'S'.

It's probably just me, but the TRD and ZR6 emblem on the back seems a bit off when you have it following the angle of the tail light and not parallel with the ground. Each to their own I guess.

Yeah, Personalised Plates Queensland is the only place where you can get proper personalised plates for QLD. The prestige ones certainly expensive compared to other states aren't they? At least the prestige plates come in a full framed enclosure. Looks much better than an aluminium plate; but then again, at that cost you would expect that at the least. I reckon nothing looks more classy then silver writing on a black background. With the black trim on the Aurion, the number plate will fit nicely. If you need an idea on how it will look, just check out mine out.

Sure does. The control circuitry in the head unit for that part gets its power from the harness in question. It's quite a messy way to do it, but unless someone how is good at reverse engineering can figure it out from the circuit board alone, then that's one way of doing it. Heard about it from the guys over at the US forums, and realised that when I had the power to my head unit disconnected, yet the DISP button worked perfectly fine. It only stopped working when the harness for the steering controls were completely disconnected from the head unit.

Yeah, I wouldn't give it a try before everything is clear. I think we really need an expert to explain and analyze on this matter. I really am wondering how acoustik has played with all those calbes and made it working. I'm curious as well. The best solution I have found is to dissect the old factory stereo and remove the main circuit board. Then to plug the remote harness into that and 'hide' the circuit board somewhere. It is quite odd that they have chosen to have the control circuitry for the steering wheel buttons in the stereo; which runs independently since the stereo doesn't need to have power applied to it for that end of the circuit to work. In a way, I guess that means Toyota can get it their way by preventing aftermarket modifications.

Hey JIN. If I were you, I wouldn't go messing with that violet cable. That is actually connected to the Combination Meter and speed sensor ECU. Worst case scenario if you mess that up is that you will fry something in the Combination Meter which will you will be regretting if you did. This whole display/steering wheel control thing isn't just a matter of joining wires. That's it. If you want to go understanding how it all works, you will need to get a circuit diagram for the stock stereo (or any compatible aftermarket stereo) and analyze how how the harness connects to it.

I think you better have a look at the Electric wiring diagram. The manual is on this forum one of the pinned at the top. It gives you all the details of eclectric wiring diagram of GSV40 Series and ACV40 Series. The GSV40 is aurion. I saw the diagram but personally I have no idea about Electricity thing. It does show some diagram of steering wheel buttons too so someone please explain what we have to do. I am talking about that sticky post too. It is US V6 Camry service manual, GSV40 is not Aurion but Camry V6, they are 99% the same but not identical, at least DISP button is not. If we have the real Aurion manual, we can compare and find out which one of the 4 wires from steering pad switch assembly is DISPLAY button and jump it to the correct spot in Head unit. Of course, some one who is familiar with car electronic can study the US Camry service manual, find out which spot is DISPLAY button and test all the 4 wires by trial and error. I don't think anyone out there has leaked te Aurion service manual. We need someone nice enough from Toyota to do that for us first. As for the DISP button thing; I've looked into it, and from my perspective, it is definitely a digital circuit. I have tested both from the point of the steering wheel controls and from the end of the harness at the stereo end. I would help to find a solution if I could, but I don't want to risk destroying something that works, without first learning about the backbones of this system. My testing wasn't extensive, but my readings were from the stereo end: Purple: 0V when ignition is off - 10.97V when ignition is on. Pink: 0V when ignition is on or off - 4.69V when DISP button is pressed - 10.97V when parker lights are on (will remain at 10.97V even if DISP is pressed) Orange: 0V when ignition is on or off - 4.69V when DISP button is pressed - 10.97V when parker lights are on (will remain at 10.97V even if DISP is pressed) Yellow: 0V when ignition is on or off - 4.69V when DISP button is pressed - 10.97V when parker lights are on (will remain at 10.97V even if DISP is pressed) As you can see, the pink, orange, and yellow all behave the same when the DISP button is pressed. One interesting note is that pressing any of the audio buttons on the steering wheel gave no readings on those wires when pressed. These conditions can easily change when they are in circuit.

Nope I got the display to work, you can bypass the HU, the HU doesnt control the display, so look for a orphan wiring that is neither power, antenna or speakers and bingo. Can you please explain? I was thinking to connect that cable with other cable such as ground? cos it looks like nothing with HU. But I am just worrying about if I connect it with wrong one and the display is f**ked. Which cable (which colour?) did you hook it up to? From my observation, connecting any one of those wires to ground is going to serious break something. That part of the circuit appears to be isolated from ground and judging from the voltage readings obtained, it appears to be part of a digital circuit. That's why I am quite curious to find out if there really is a simple way to fix it.

Nope I got the display to work, you can bypass the HU, the HU doesnt control the display, so look for a orphan wiring that is neither power, antenna or speakers and bingo. Would you be able to explain just a little bit more on how you got your DISP button to work? This would be in regards to having an aftermarket head unit right? Because in the wiring harness for the stereo, there is a connector that looks like this: When that is disconnected from the stock head unit, the DISP button on the steering wheel loses all functionality. Doing some tests, I found that the DISP button actually integrates with the steering wheel stereo controls on the same bus. So if you had a simple solution to that, please let us know. That knowledge would be quite valuable for anyone planning to put a aftermarket head unit in.