JIN

The way the back seat is held down is quite shocking. In most cars you have a tab you can pull on to release it, but unfortunately on the Aurion it is just a matter of pulling the seat up with some force. There are two 'clips' that hold the seat down and it is best to squeeze your hand as close to the clip as possible and pull up. If you have larger hands, you can use a long screwdriver to lever it up. It's kind of hard to explain; but if you use a torch and look under the front end of the seat while trying to raise it, you will see what I mean. I have included a picture so you can get a general idea of where those clips are (I have circled them in red). Once that is out, you can remove the back rest portion of the seat by removing two bolts that are located near the bottom of the seat belts. yeah I had done the back seat when I had replacement speakers for rear. I was just searching for disassembly of front passenger seat and the door sill coz it looks a bit tricky for me. Now I got the hints and will try it tomorrow or the other day. Thanks DJKOR.

I just finished sound deadening on front doors today. Just finished the front doors and the difference it quite impressive. I could feel the sound is tight although only front doors are done.. Now everything is ready for installation. The 4 gauge amp wiring kit will be delivered tomorrow. The sub woofer is sony 200rms with pioneer box and if I don't feel strong enough on the bass, I would change the speaker later. Now, I need an advice to get it done. How do I remove the passanger seat, side door seal trim and passanger cabin? I tried to find it from pinned user manual but some of them have been deleted and coudn't find any from any of threads. I've seen DJKOR's pic that all the seats and carpet were removed. Could anybody explain? Thanks.

Thanks DJKOR. I finally ended up with the Clarion APX1301 and just brought it in today because I found a place gives cheap price tag + 12months warranty on it. And it's brand new! I might get second amp(cheap) for the front and rear speakers but not sure... Now I have to find a sub but couldn't find Clarion one with reasonable price yet. Anyway, I appreciate for your advice.

Whoa....$8k off?? Serious?? You are a real negotiater...thumbs up.. Would you mind if I ask you to come with me when I go to dealer for my next car later?? Just jking.

Hi guys. I am just entering to car stereo system and getting an amp and sub. I got 4 amps in my list currently. Which one would you choose? The amp is gonna only power up the sub woofer and I will get 400W RMS pioneer or clarion sub woofer with sealed box. Any recommendation? Cheers 1. Kenwood KAC-8104D 1000 Watts MAX CEA Rated: 300W (1.0% THD+N) (4Ohm/1Ch) CEA Rated: 500W (1.0% THD+N) (2Ohm/1Ch) Fuse rating: 40A x 1 2. Pioneer GM-D7400M Maximum Output Power: 1 x 400W (4Ω) or 1 x 800W (2Ω) CEA 2006 Power (THD + N = 1%) 1 x 200W (20Hz - 240Hz/4Ω) 1 x 400W (50Hz / 2Ω) 54 dBA (ref: 1W into 4Ω) 3. Clarion APX1301 Mono Block Class A/B Amplifiers 420 Watts of Maximum Music Power 400W x 1 into 2 Ohms, @ <0.1% THD 300W x 1 into 4 Ohms, @ <0.1% THD CEA 2006 Power Ratings: 320W x 1 RMS S/N: 70dB (Ref: 1W into 4Ohm) 4. Clarion DPX2251 Number of Channels 2/1 Maximum Power Output 650w MOS-FET Power Supply ● 4-Ohm 180w × 2 2-Ohm 250w × 2 Bridged 500w × 1 2-Ohm Stable ●

Ok. Now I am going to buy an amp first and I got 4 amps in my list. Which one would you choose? The amp is gonna only power up the sub woofer and I will get 400W RMS pioneer or clarion sub woofer with sealed box. Any recommendation? Cheers 1. Kenwood KAC-8104D 1000 Watts MAX CEA Rated: 300W (1.0% THD+N) (4Ohm/1Ch) CEA Rated: 500W (1.0% THD+N) (2Ohm/1Ch) Fuse rating: 40A x 1 2. Pioneer GM-D7400M Maximum Output Power: 1 x 400W (4Ω) or 1 x 800W (2Ω) CEA 2006 Power (THD + N = 1%) 1 x 200W (20Hz - 240Hz/4Ω) 1 x 400W (50Hz / 2Ω) 54 dBA (ref: 1W into 4Ω) 3. Clarion APX1301 Mono Block Class A/B Amplifiers 420 Watts of Maximum Music Power 400W x 1 into 2 Ohms, @ <0.1% THD 300W x 1 into 4 Ohms, @ <0.1% THD CEA 2006 Power Ratings: 320W x 1 RMS S/N: 70dB (Ref: 1W into 4Ohm) 4. Clarion DPX2251 Number of Channels 2/1 Maximum Power Output 650w MOS-FET Power Supply ● 4-Ohm 180w × 2 2-Ohm 250w × 2 Bridged 500w × 1 2-Ohm Stable ●

Thanks for your advice guys! It really helped me alot!hehe

Thanks DJKOR, it all solved my worries. You are always helpful when I am stuck on something. Just 2 more quick questions, for the sub, is the ported one better than all blocked one? What's the difference between those two? I've found some same woofers in different enclosures which are blocked and ported.. Is there any good place to get a second hand amps(cheap but resonable) rather than ebay? Thanks.

Hi guys. I am planning to get a 12"sub woofer +amp but I got some questions on this because I really have no idea of getting sub and amp. I might get around 400W RMS woofer+ mono amp but just wondering, would that system damage the car in anyways in long term period? Also, if I get the system, the electric power would still be strong enough to drive the car without any problems? I've serached on the internet and there are some cases of using too much power and it could cause of electiric system fault because of an accumulation of low voltage damage on some parts such as ecu. The other thing I am worrying about is the vibration affecting on the engine. If you guys are having similar system on your aurion, can you tell me how it works and any problems? Any pics of the system installed would be great. Cheers.

All I know about is the engine is same and the s/c can be bolted on the normal engine. but the thing is since you install the s/c, you have to re-map or exchange ecu(which could cost alot and take the risk of engine being unstable eventho someone already has hacked the aurion's ecu), intake and exhaust need to be done since the amount of air flow will be changed because of s/c. IMO, it would cost alot to put the s/c on and it could be risky too because of the ecu matters. If the ecu can be hacked and re-mapped, it would be even better because we can have chances of using the other s/c models on the engine with higher boost. It's glad to see someone being the first one, but I am just worrying of trial errors because no one's gonna know how much it would cost.

You may need to do the air intake, manifold, exhaust and ECU remapping as well. Not even sure how much they would cost. maybe alot??

Em...just a quick question. Why do you want to get different size rims for front and rear? eventho it's not even RWD. for example,like jerms said. If it's only for dress up purpose, I wouldn't worry about it but those different rim size on FWD vehicle with bigger rear rims could cause some serious accidents in some specific cases.

Oh well...if you go to any mechanics they shouldn't cost more than $50 IMO, since the unit itself is just plug&play including streering wheel controls. From my memory, for the first time I tried to put my previous aftermarket headunit, it only took about 20minutes to take off the factory one.(Wiring the headunit was b*t*h tho..) If you know how to use couple of screw drivers, you may DIY. Good luck and you will definately like it. i got a couple of verbal quotes once i explained what it was i am installing. Both guys said 3-4 hours work equals 2-3 hundred dollars. I wish someone had said $50 bucks Sigh..what a rip off! If you lived near my place, I would install it for you only for $40. It doesn't even take 1.5 hours to get it done(just the head unit)..

Ok Back on the Igov8.3, I finally got the initializing screen after putting the display setting into the sys file. it was only 3 lines to add to make it working. DUH... I actually have 2 different versions of igov8.3. One is PNA and the other one is PDA version. I tried PNA version with modified sys file and got into the language setting and voice setting menu. After the voice setting, it seemed like it's gonna work but it gave me the outdated map file error which DJKOR stated. Like DJKOR said, R15 map seems like the latest one for V8.0.x. PDA version gave me another funny error message which was out of memory....deng.. it still showed the language and voice setting menu tho.. So, in conclusion, it seems like there's no maps available for australia yet on igo v.8.3.x and we might have to wait a bit more. <_<

Oh well...if you go to any mechanics they shouldn't cost more than $50 IMO, since the unit itself is just plug&play including streering wheel controls. From my memory, for the first time I tried to put my previous aftermarket headunit, it only took about 20minutes to take off the factory one.(Wiring the headunit was b*t*h tho..) If you know how to use couple of screw drivers, you may DIY. Good luck and you will definately like it.

Yeah you can connect ipod at the back of the unit. ipod cable also be included in the unit anyway. i don't think you can change the songs through the unit although the unit is using same interface with ipod. when you select ipod from the unit, the display shows the interface which is nearly same as your ipod screen(at least on mine shows same thing) such as playlists, on-the-go etc. could be different on different ipod models.

Ok. On the Igov8.3 topic, I finally gave up on this. I've downloaded at least 20 packages of IgoV8.3.x from the internet and NONE of them even allowed me to get the initializing screen!!!. The correct resolution folder was in the data.zip and it just kept going wrong and showing green/white/black stripes screen. Maybe I have to wait till someone figures it out and upload the working one on the web.

If you wanna lower your ride on those tyres (35 profile) by changing the springs, they scrub. 30 profile one doesn't scrub tho. That's why I am looking for some coilovers to get my ride lower because I don't wanna change those tyres..

Here my pic. 20" with Kumho Ecsta SPT 235/35 ZR20

Well...those sizes would be ok eventho you gonna lower your ride on them. just make sure if you are going for 20" make the tyre profile to 30 otherwise they might scrub if you lower the car by changing the springs.. Also, everyone has different taste and what to choose is totally up to you. if you like it, then go for it. if you like classic style then 5~6spokes would be suitable, if you like luxury and elegant style then go for AUDI or MB styel, etc... EDIT: It is hard to say that "This(Particular rim sryle) is the best!" because there are too many styles on the rims and it depends on what colour your car is.

Well on that topic, after a combined 4-5 hours (no joke), I have reached some conclusions. A majority of the downloads for iGO 8.3.x are all missing the correct 'data.zip' file with the 480x234 resolution. Copying and pasting the one from previous versions of iGO will NOT work. So then you need to scout the net for a proper 'data.zip' file made for versions 8.3.x. So after a lot of downloading, I finally got a base setup of iGO 8.3.1.57021 together with the R15 Australia maps. Put it on the SD card and went to the car. Splash screen showed then quickly disappeared and the head unit returned to the main screen. I thought it was the 'data.zip' playing up so I downloaded at least 6 different versions and retried, getting the same result each time. Then I thought maybe it was because my unit is running Windows CE 4.2. Did a Google search and found that this shouldn't be the problem. After more and more searching, I found that it is most likely a license issue. Found a license pack download, put it on the SD card, and fancy that... it actually got to the initialisation page for iGO where I could select the language, etc. Then once I did that, it said my maps were outdated. WTF. Did another Google search only to find out that the iGO 8.3.x is not compatible with maps from previous versions, and that there is no Australia map made to work on the new version of iGO. So that was some exercise. Conclusion. Yes these units CAN run iGO 8.3.x, however we have no use for the program as there is no Australian maps for it yet. Yeah that's what I was doing for the whole last week downloading more than 8 packages of V8.3.x. What I figured out is R15 version map is for IgoV8.3.x. Are you sure it is outdated? Because I downloaded R15 map package which includes speedcam and 3d building graphics for australia and I tired them with V8.0.x but the result was disappointing. R15 map is not compatible with V8.0.x and it only works on v.8.3 like you said. I have seen some pics of working v.8.3 with building graphics and it was showing the australian map for sure. I haven't tried the license pack yet and I might give it a try tomorrow.

Well..I don't have any clues about MARS but should be ok if you install them properly. I've got mine for about 4 months and still works perfectly. Also, they may look better with projector headlights but I am not sure whether 08 rolla has one or not.

Sigh..$200,000? Where's my lotto ticket gone?

Hi guys. I got mine from FAT and installed in on last Wed. Thanks to FAT. Just wondering, Does anyone use iGO8 V8.3.x.x with R15 map? I found and downloaded V8.3 with R15map but it doesn't work on the unit with white and green stripes on the screen and ended up with white blank screen. The Data.zip folder has correct screen resolution folder but still doesn't work. :( Any idea?? BTW V8.0.x.x works great except I couldn't find the speedcam file from the web so it's a bit inconvinient tho. Here are before and after pics. Before: After

My unit appears to have sold already to JIN , will post back if sale falls through, also JIN ive used the igo8 software and it kicks **** ;-) get it while u can. FAT Thanks FAT. Just got the IGO8 and trying to configure it. I am really enjoying it! ;-)