jade

Thats because mr sheen is also silicone based..... we had a new automatic garage door installed and it was really squeeky... we rang and complained and the guy came out and sprayed the runners with none other than .... MR SHEEN!!!! He was even nice enough to leave the can for future applications... lol :D

i am also looking at 18's to try to fill the depressingly large guards of my rolla... what size tyres should i get then???

i have just done front pads at 100,000km's.... rears will get another 25.000km's travel... nothing wrong with my rotors yet ;) it all depends on the way you drive though doesnt it... i am all for fast acceleration.... but i am not a late braker or one for sitting too close to people, so all my braking is rather smooth and gentle.. my rotors didnt even look to need machining.... ;)

i am going to do the throttle body coolant bypass this weekend and see if that makes a difference.... my car only does it when its warm, so hopefully this may make a difference..... <_< at this point i am willing to try anything as my warranty is out of date now...

as the title suggests, the 1ZZ engines have been advertised from day dot as being 100kW..... but upon reading the 1ZZ engine development info sheet, i am led to beleive that the 1ZZ is only 89kW max power..... <_< http://www.users.on.net/~bmrogers/rolla/1zzfe.pdf then i thought, hmm.... maybe that is at the wheels, but the sheet is talking about maximum engine power and says nothing about the cars driveline... can someone help me out please....

i know the feeling.... my car does the same thing, and has been fixed by toyota.... then 2 days later its idling really low again... i am taking mine to a efi specialist this week so he can have a go at getting the idle right... ;) will let you know how i go nb.... my engine is stock with no cai or extractors.....

that noise is called ignition noise and is either from a bad ground or from your rca's being too close to your power cable... you have to make sure that the power cable is down one side of the car, and the rca's down the other... if they cant fix it, ask them to put a noise suppresser in, and they should do it for free too ;)

funnily enough, my car runs fine when it is cold, but once up to running temp it farts and idles funny and shakes...... took it to toyota and they reckon they cant make it play up... probably cos they started it at 7 in the morning and ran it for about 30 seconds and then turned it off..... such a comprehensive service department.... the running temperature nature of this problem is making me think that it may be an o2 sensor somewhere or something like that playing up.... but the toyota computer doesnt pick it up and neither does my bf's diagnostic computer at his workshop <_< damn evil toyota, they are in a giant conspiracy against us

<_< i have dont have cai and my car does the same thing... it idles that low and shakes that i am sure that it is going to stall.. my engine is stock and i dont have any bolt on mods.... so if someone can work out why this is happening and how to fix it (apart from playing with the throttle body settings, cos they are set like that for a reason and shouldnt be played with) let me know... B)

<_< i wouldnt personally use anything that thin (5/30) in a genIII.... the rings in those engines were never the best anyway, let alone with oil that thin.... i use catrol XT10-30 in my car (1ZZFE), that is what the toyota technicians recommend at toyota engine school (for their apprentices).... the oil is hard to find, and many stores reckon they have never heard of it, but i manage to get it from auto pro.... i change my oil and filter every 5,000 - 7,000 kms and they always manage to keep a bottle of my oil in stock for me :D

have a listen to this.... its gold.... The Mechanic.mp3 just so you guys know.... not all girls are like this ;)

i would have to say changing before 8000rmp might help :P but thats only cos my conquest wont rev that hard and i am jealous <_< as has been suggested, dont jump off the clutch so hard when changing gears :)

happy birthday... B)

Late 2001 conquest.... trust me to buy a fricken series 1... <_<

well... nothing special... two 12 inch kicker comp subs, a 1000watt kenwood amp, and thats about it.... except for custom boxes which are my secret weapon... :P i also 2 sets of 6" pioneer speakers for the rear and front, and a small amp for them, but the standard ones are doing ok at the moment.... i am beginning to be bored by the whole sound off scene, that and i am sick of overpowering subs and being a treble rebel till i save up for more... <_< infact i hardly ever listen to my sound system up loud anymore, mainly cos my boyfriend complains that it hurts his ears....

just wondered since i am car sound mad what sorts of db ratings everyone is pulling in their rollas.... i found that in my excel i was easily able to get 145db.... bought a new rolla and the best i have managed is 143.... ready and willing though to crank some gains to beat my own record.... :P if you hadnt noticed, i am oddly drawn to car sound.... all the fellas at the sound offs that i have entered all give me the oddest looks.... it may be my lucky tuning screw driver hanging out of my back pocket, tradesman style... lol

i prefer kumho tyres personally.... just managed to get 70,000km's out of a set on the front of my rolla... and if you talk to anyone that knows me, i love chirpin it up... they are great in the wet and wear wonderfully.... previously, my car had dunlops on it (when i bought the car) and after a month i had saved enough money to buy new tyres cos the banglops were **** in the wet... anyhoo they are relatively cheap for my conquest too... $100 bucks a tyre for 195/60/r15. :D hope this helps

if someone doesnt mind measuring their car from the bottom of the headlight to the ground that would help me.... will measure mine when i get a chance.... thanks again.... ps, pippy, from your first post, i thought that you were a girl too...

ok.... so know that there is a section on who sells what parts etc..... but..... i already have the sportivo accelerator pedal.... but have stock clutch and brake pedals.... <_< does anyone know if i can buy them seperate, or do any of you sportivo owners have a set that you might be willing to sell??? thanks guys.

ok... so this sounds pretty odd.... but please remember that i am of the female persuasion and thought this would be the best way to do some research about my car... i bought my car second hand (only had 7,500km's) from a car dealership, it had what i thought were at the time standard springs and shocks in it.... now all of a sudden i am seeing a mass fleet everywhere i look of corollas with what can only be described as lift kits in them.... so i was wondering if someone can measure their car from the bottom of their headlight to the ground for me.... i wanna know just how "lowered" it is.... tried looking at the springs, they are just generic black with no writing on them.... leads me to beleive they are either standard, or sportivo springs.... thanks for your help guys.... might also help is someone can tell me what the stock height is too.. :) jade PS. please note that the pic in my avatar has been photoshopped.... this is not how my car sits (although, a girl can dream.... lol) :P

hi all, i am from newie and i noticed that there was a post about a corolla meet up at liverpool maccas for april.... being that i only just joined and therefore wasnt aware i didnt attend..... but what do you all think about taking your rolla's on the freeway and stretching their legs.... newie has a great car scene, tonnes of people into the sames sorts of things that you all seem to be, and are really easy to get along with... if you are interested and you would like to look into it further, www.newcastlelaps.net is a great place to start... jade

my car is stock standard and the same thing happens to mine when i stop at traffic lights..... it idles so low that i think its going to stall..... at first i thought that my clutch was doing it, but it does the same thing in neutral as well... took it to my local toyota dealer under warranty, and they couldnt find anything wrong with it, mind you all they wanted to do was stick a scan tool on it and get some codes, as soon as none came up, they didnt want to know me... took it to an efi specialist and he suggested that it may be due to a dud vvti controller but toyota didnt want to know about it.... dont blame them, a vvti controller takes about 6 -8 hours to replace and costs about $1000. if anyone does find out what the prob is, let us know..... i just want my new car to run right and toyota dont wanna know about it cos now its out of warranty!!!