lateralus

well as you have the pre-facelift model it will fit straight in without any dramas (facelift requires cutting a section out of the inner guard due to the shape of the headlights).

i can't comment on the trd short shifter, but i had the twm in my sportivo. the shifter itself is about an inch shorter, and the throw is a lot less than stock (i'd say around 20%). it doesn't sound like much, but when going from stock to the twm, there did feel as though there was a massive difference in throw between the two. however, as the stick itself was shorter as well, it also required more force to change gears as you are trying to do the same thing (ie. change gears) over a shorter distance. you do get used to it, though. although it did feel good and gave the car a sportier feel, contrary to popular belief it didn't actually help me change gears quicker. if i had a sportivo again, i probably wouldn't have bothered with it. it all comes down to personal preference, but i think due to the type of shifter setup the sportivo has, you would be much better off upgraded your shifter linkage bushes for better feel. i've since sold the sportivo and bought a 2011 wrx and had a genuine sti short shifter fitted. now THAT thing makes a difference as it's the whole gear shifter assembly and the linkages which are replaced, and not just a stick.

price drop

they look super sticky!

lol...nice one yeah, me too! which is a bummer, as they're brand spanking new too. bit of a shame really, as they're just gathering dust at the moment :(

or you can spend a little more and get genuine oz racing wheels wrapped in potenzas which look awesome on the sportivo?

you may also want to consider the runout of the tyres, which is extremely hard to counteract with wheel balancing.

i can't remember how the rotors on the st184's are mounted, but it could be that. taking everything apart and then putting it back together will help reduce the noise temporarily, as the hubs are a compressed fit and torquing everything up nicely re-compresses it. but the sound will return after a few km's.

i'll bet it is the wheel hub. i had the same problem on my st184, which caused the same noise and the cv's were in good condition.

i'm assuming (and hoping) that you retuned the car after getting the cams fitted. if you did, then that would be way you don't feel lift. the air/fuel ratio would be altered to create a smoother more linear curve the sudden engagement of 'lift' on a stock 2zz is more so of a marketing technique for toyota, as people will notice the difference more. thus, you still have 'lift' but it's engagement is smoother. can't comment on the vvt functioning, as you need to ensure the cam gears are aligned correctly.

as everyone has already mentioned, you will need to notify your insurer of any change in risk of your vehicle. more specifically, it relates to your duty of disclosure under section 21 of the insurance contracts act 1984 (cth). an insurance company can deny your claim in FULL (meaning they will not pay for damage to either your vehicle or any other third party property damages), if they can demonstrate they would not have accepted your business if they were told earlier (this relates to section 54 of the insurance contracts act 1984) each insurer has their own underwriting guidelines (ie. terms and conditions) which specify the amount of risk they are willing to accept. generally, the higher the risk the higher the premium, but they do have limits. their risk limits are in place to ensure the sustainability and profitability of their own business portfolio, and the cost of reinsurance. in addition to about 500 other factors which are taken into account when calculating an insurance premium, generally the insurers who accept unlimited mods will have higher claims cost leakage and reinsurance, which increases your premium. i say in addition to other factors as it does not necessarily mean a higher overall premium, as your risk address and age, etc. might buffer that other increase, resulting in an overall lower premium. insurance is a **** load more complicated than that, but that's the gist of it :P in short, tell them you've modded your car to prevent getting bitten on the ***** pretty hard at a later date

i'd recommend using a ring spanner for the job, or a socket and ratchet. when using an open ended spanner you will probably end up rounding off the edges of the nut.

b u m p

thanks guys! jeffy, i don't plan on modding this one much. i've got a few of the genuine sti accessories lined up to be fitted shortly. the cars performance when stock is still worlds beyond what the sportivo had, so i'm content for now :) zeinheiger, i'll be sure to wave next time!

i've spotted a blue pre-facelift aurion in whittlesea a couple of times over the last 2 weeks...it's got a 'sprtos' grille, and exhaust not sure if it's a member?

bump

should also point out that it's recommended you replace the metal crush gaskets for both the drain and filler plugs. they're $2 each from toyota

click on the link in my signature :D

well i picked up my new ride on tuesday... :) 2011 subaru impreza wrx hatchback

it was for facelift only anyway

the trick is patience, a plethora of swear words, a beer, and a long handled spanner. good luck!

ces intake and c-one cooling panel sold energy suspension control arm bushing kit added

parts list updated

well i finally decided to go through with selling my pride and joy, and it's gone to a new owner in south australia! should be getting my new wheels in the next week or so, and i'll be sure to chuck some photos up :)

what a coincidence you mention that, as i just sold my car with a ces system on it with no issues whatsoever. i believe some legs are being pulled here...