lateralus

good investment :) have fun getting the thing in, the holes are a pain in the **** to line up

thanks buddy! only ordered the wheels on thursday. the distributor is out of stock in this size so they're coming directly from italy should have them in about 2 weeks time. 2 looooooong weeks :( now for rubber! considering either going with eagle f1's again or giving the new re002's a whirl....decisions decisions

springs will continue to settle for the first 1000kms or so, and then eventually reach their set height. even after that and with age, springs will eventually settle even more and lower the ride height again. this occurs regardless of whether you get springs by themselves or coilovers.

a couple of things i might add: when undoing the sump plug to drain the oil, take off the oil filler cap. it releases some of the vacuum in the engine and helps the old oil drain a bit easier. when replacing the sump plug, always use a new washer to ensure a good seal. before putting a new oil filter back on, always clean the metal surface of the oil filter housing on the engine with a rag to get rid of any dirt, old oil, etc. fill up the new oil filter with around the same amount of oil that came out of the old filter. when you start cranking the engine, all oil has been completely drained from the lines to the oil pump. filling the new filter with fresh oil helps to eliminate the 1 second (approx) where your engine has no lubrication (better safe than sorry). filters should be hand-tightened and then turned clockwise another 1/4 of a turn. any tighter and you'll risk stripping the thread on the block (have fun with that!).

as Noodle Boy stated, get quotes elsewhere. quotes you obtain through brokers are always higher as they include commission. and bear in mind that premiums will be different for every single person. the time you get the quote, your driving experience, previous traffic convictions/suspensions, area you live in, the company you get the quote through, that company's own claims and client portfolio and costs leakage, state of the current economy, inflation, parts prices....these are some of the some thousand factors that influence premiums at the end of the day, you will not be able to get the same premium as another person with the same car due to the many factors used to calculate the premium just get as many quotes as you can at the level of cover you're happy with (and provided honest answers), and go for the one that suits you best. working in insurance myself, i can assure you that cheaper is not better. but that aside, allianz is a good insurer at the moment.

i also spent a week repainting all the calipers. the trd aurion colour scheme inspired me, so on the fronts the caliper brackets are black and the caliper assembly itself is red. the rears are completely red. i took the calipers off completely and stripped them back, as it wanted all the nuts, plates and pins their normal metal colour. i think it makes it look cleaner

adjusted the ride height today! it now sits at 532mm front and 540mm rears (measured from the bottom of the rim to the guard). dampening is set to 26 on the front and 24 on the rears (ie. bone rattling). no scrubbing on full lock or going over bumps, and it corners beautifully. so i'll leave it as is :) a few pics of how it sits

may seem like a silly question, but did you have the a/c turned on?

as the others have said, a good full service will be good for the car. moving forward, if you plan on driving the car aggressively, then a good maintenance schedule is in order (eg. regular oil changes). the way i see it there is a big difference between driving a car hard and thrashing it, and it's all in how you treat the car in return for it's hard work.

it sounds more like an electrical/sensor problem. i'd suggest taking out the MAF and giving it a good clean. also, if you're using an oiled filter such as a k&n, make sure it isn't saturated in oil. another suggestion could me to check your O2 sensors in case your exhaust dude is a knob and has damaged it. apart from that, an ECU reset should help especially with the mods you've just done.

your car should feel as though it's driving on rails now!

haven't got them yet :( hopefully it shouldn't be too much longer though i'll be getting 17x7 with +37 offset. should fit nicely and fill up the wheel arches a bit more

pm sent

rims to come shortly oz racing supertursimo gt, black with red lettering

if it comes on intermittently and there's no real pattern to it, or you can't replicate it intentionally, i would say it sounds like a loose electrical connector or contact. i'd check everything on the stalk is still connected/contacting properly.

awesome job on the angel eyes!! :)

stock aus spec 2zz's run a 6pk1930 belt. so as mwr suggest adding 2 inches for both pulleys, you would need a 6pk1980. assuming you still want the aircon to work (a lot of guys in the u.s. go without the aircon by choice so have used even shorter belts accordingly). i just got both the mwr pulleys myself, but haven't got around to installing them yet (but they're on the agenda for this weekend!). i've already bought a 6pk1980 belt, so i'll let you know how it goes fitment wise with the belt and the alternator pulley. fingers crossed!

goodyear eagle f1 gs-d3's for me, in 205/50R16. the best tyre i've ever come across :D not only does the tread look awesome, they're super sticky

could also be that the anti-squeal shims haven't been correctly greased

the clutch is adjusted from inside the car. there's a pushrod attached to the clutch pedal by a clevis pin, which then goes into the clutch master cylinder. you need to undo a 12mm locking nut, then turn the pushrod in or out depending on how it needs to be adjusted. see this thread for freeplay and pedal height specs. an extended pushrod in the clutch slave cylinder (on the front of the gearbox) increases the throw of the clutch itself. in theory, it is supposed to improve shifting with heavier or aftermarket clutches. while i didn't have any problems shifting before an aftermarket clutch was put in, i just got it for good measure. it won't make your shifting faster or make your car go quicker if that's what you're thinking.

congrats on the bubba duy! i wouldn't have thought coilovers and babies go together particuarly well :P

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you'll have to supply the pushrod yourself to be fitted. i had mine fitted (including new flywheel and engine mount inserts) by a family friend, and that was $250 for labour. so for full price at a workshop, $500 would be reasonable if it includes machining your stock flywheel.

aami cannot "force" you to get your vehicle repaired by their nominated repairer. although your policy conditions might state you have to, if you refuse to take it to their repairer they will cash settle you (pay you out) for the assessed cost of repairs. at the end of the day, no insurance company can force you to do anything, but they might manipulate your claim otherwise

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