lateralus

even though they both have the 2zz engine, as it's for a celica i don't believe they will fit the sportivo (correct me if i'm wrong). to save on headaches with fitment, i'd recommend getting your stock manifold ported and polished. for our cars, this would provide the same amount as headers of power gains if done correctly.

if it is related to the inserts, try using them without the washers, just as a trial. i know they may pop out after a while, but do this as a process of elimination. i'm using the same mount inserts without any washers and mines dead quiet (ie. no knocking). they aren't popping out, either.

kinda looks a little like a golf

2005 corolla sportivo minor service every 4000kms myself and anything else that comes along according to the log book (but i replace consumables much sooner than recommended anyway). taken to a mechanics workshop (family friend) every 7500km for a proper check over and major work if required. $60 does it nicely :P

not sure what you mean by "torque like sound". but if you're talking about the higher idling when the engine is cold, that's how all toyota's are. with regards to the hardness of the clutch pedal, you'd be surprised that a lot of heavy duty clutches are lighter. the stiffness of the pedal is usually influenced by the turnover spring and how worn the current clutch is. the more worn the clutch, the heavier it will feel. the issue with going from 4th to 2nd could be related to you not pressing the clutch pedal in all the way as you have admitted to (btw, fully depressing the clutch is how they operate normally). the shifting trouble could be related to an out of adjustment pedal height. with limited info on the car and not having a look at it, there could be numerous things that could contribute to what you have described. you're best to get your own mechanic to look at it if you're not confident. hope that helps.

exhaust sold! i'm in whittlesea (victoria), but can organise to meet up somewhere if you can't make it out to me. pm sent.

you won't cause damage to the car, but you'll probably just get annoyed at the constant knocking when turning sharply

bloody hell that is a rip off! save yourself $180 and do it yourself, it really is simple. get some clear silicone tubing ($2 at an aquarium for a metre or two) and an old coke bottle or make a bleeder bottle (i'm assuming you know what this looks like). put the hose over the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder, and open the valve slightly (using an 8mm flare wrench) until the fluid starts to run out slightly. once this starts happening, go into the car and start pumping the clutch pedal manually with your hand. you need to do it by hand as the pedal won't return by itself. keep doing this until either the fluid runs clear or no more bubbles come out. tighten the bleeder valve until it's snug (or to 8Nm if you're anal), and you're done! it's definitely not a $180 job. i can bleed the clutch on my car in about 5 mins, if that.

no, as you are still using the same clutch. the bedding in procedure is only used for new clutches. but it is recommended you bleed the hydraulic clutch line after the sort of work you've done

there is no whiteline front sway bar made specifically for our sportivo's. the people who have them have fitted the one designed for the zze122 suspension set-up, which is a slightly different design. the sway bars do still fit ok and do what they're designed for (more or less), except for the knocking noise you have described. there are 2 ways you can solve the problem: 1. replace the whiteline sway bar with the original sway bar, or; 2. retain the whiteline swaybar, but replace the linking arms with shorter ones edit: 1000TH POST BITCHES!

i''ll pop down for a catch up on the arvo, but i'm not able to make it for dinner

looking much better duy! i wonder what made them do the bend over the axle that shape?

SOLD

you dont need to use a brand name muffler, resonator, etc. if the system is made well to begin with, then that will be the biggest gain. just don't skimp on quality welding as you will develop cracks and exhaust leaks in no time. correctly made mandrel bends are a must, too. and i would tend to agree with the whole varex thing. to me, it's a bit of a gimmick just so you can say "look what i've got" (varex owners you know you want to punch me square in the face, haha ;) ) with regards to getting a high flow cat, you will find that pretty much all the guys on here with the highest power outputs and 1/4 mile times are using stock cats. you would probably be better off putting that money towards getting your stock exhaust manifold port matched and polished.

keep in mind that it there will only ever be anything on REVS if it is declared written off or stolen. contrary to popular belief, there isn't some big database of accidents and repair jobs done to every car

that sportivo has been on carsales for quite a while now, too.

haha, thanks guys yeah the seats are a lot brighter than what i'm used to.

i haven't got any CES branding on my exhaust. whether or not the older ones do, i'm not sure. have you got any pictures of it?

ouch! lucky you noticed it before you lost anymore oil hopefully your engine is ok. were you driving at the time or was it left idling?

big no no on the crankshaft pulley! the 2zz's are externally balanced, so if you fit the lightweight pulley it will most likely cause problems as it may be too much underdrive. otherwise, good purchases!

what Kenshin X has said is correct. regardless of whether or not you are a nominated driver, when you gain coverage (even if the policy is in your name or not) you have a duty of disclosure and utmost good faith to tell the insurer about any claims and accidents you have had, usually in the last 5 years only. this includes windscreen and natural disaster/storm claims. so technically, you accumulate your own rating regardless of the terms of the policy. for example, even if the main policyholder is a rating 2 or even rating 4, you yourself may be entitled to a rating 1 depending on your insurance and driving history if you were to have a policy in your own name. hope that helps clarify the rating system. while this in theory sounds great and yes you can save money, it is misrepresentation of facts. you would still have the main financial interest in the vehicle, and if you're the registered owner and main driver (at least 20%) you must disclose this. otherwise, when or if you claim and the insurer finds this out, you run the risk of having your claim denied (if the insurer can demonstrate they wouldn't have offered cover if the true facts had been revealed at the policy application time), or they can force you to pay any outstanding and/or additional premium on a pro-rata basis (ie. back-dated the amount owing) before they pay any policy benefits. but, at the end of the day, it's your choice what you do.

is that a genuine screen?

thanks guys! no haha yeah, it does unfortunately in between the seat cushion and side bolster. it's so small though, you probably wouldn't notice it unless you were specifically looking for it. they're otherwise mint so i'm not fussed :D

well getting in and out of them is a bit of an art, which i've now mastered, lol :P but yeah, otherwise they are very comfy. they do sit slightly lower than stock, and go a little further back

cheers guys! wheels are now on, with the new RE002's in 215/45R17 - very grippy :) had to raise the ride height by 10mm all round as it was scrubbing majorly. it now only scrubs on sharp or major bumps, and i'm not willing to go any higher. otherwise, awesome!