DreadAngel

I think you're missing the point man... If you're posting to get attention then you don't get TOCAU or any other PROPER car forum for that matter. The point is to meet up and chat with people about everyone cars not just yours. You basically don't like TOCAU because your car doesn't take the limelight? =| And to clarify what Mick said, he means that we've all seen it before so if you want people actually interested in your car, got to stand out a bit from the crowd. Its like going to SuperLap in a dead stock LanEvo and expect the media to shower your car in photos, etc... Not going to happen...

The TRD T5s look nice on the Stivo! =D Update - Going nowhere fast... Apparently I might get it back tomorrow...

I hope not man... I'd rather enjoy it in my own car... *sigh*

At this rate, I'll be using my Honda i-VTEC powered Jetski... Ohhh and Will, it may look like I'll need to hitch a ride with ya mate... =| Circumstances literally beyond my control...

~550km - 600km with juicy Vortex98 50L of it too... Thats with fun time LOL

You've got my number mang!!! Thanks Will, owe you 2nd time XD Drive in Reni =P Twice!

I hope to go on my own steam but mate, if somehow my luck is THAT bad... May need a lift :(

Normal Driving 1st 0 to 35 2nd 35 to 60 3rd 60 to 75 4th 75 to 90 5th 90 to 110 6th 110 Track/racing: 1st 0-50 2nd 50-90 3rd 90-110 4th unknown 5th unknown 6th unknown I'll fill out the rest when I go to the track LOLz =P

Hmmmm, still at the workshop... Surgery is being prolonged... *sigh*

If you do find one, its most likely in need of a rebuild (like my old one is) and you'll be spending $3K on the rebuild to stock spec anyway lol

It's useful only if you're lazy and can't be bothered letting the car rundown for a bit hahaha/ go grandma on the car for the last few mins of driving lolskies...

Might want to update your sig then Will =P PM Sent Mish =D

Well I don't mind helping out but some of the questions being asked are seriously 0.5 second search on Google and a gazillion of answers XD

Straight off Wiki (Read at your own peril) Toyota A Engine "The 1987–1998 4A-FE is the descendant of the carbureted 4A-F. This version, although from the same series and the same generation as the 4A-GE, is different from its "brother" in terms of performance and power. Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that it employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt). Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low RPM means that it has about 10% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. This engine design improves fuel efficiency and torque, but compromises power. Power rating varied from 100–105 hp in the US market. Late-model engines are rumored to make slightly greater power but still received a 105 hp rating. The two generations of this engine can be identified by the external shape of the engine. The first generation (1987–1993) featured a plate on the head which read "16 valve EFI" and fuel injectors in the head. The second generation had a higher profile cam design in the head, a cam cover with ribs throughout its length, and fuel injectors in the intake manifold runners. Mechanically, the late-model motors received MAP load sensing and redesigned pistons, intake ports, and intake manifold. The second generation engine was produced from 1992–1998 (1993–1997 in the US).[1] Toyota designed this engine with fuel economy in mind. The 4A-FE is basically the same as the 4A-F (introduced in the previous generation of Corollas), the most apparent difference being the fuel delivery system. The 4A-F used a carburetor, while the 4A-FE used electronic fuel injection system (notice the "E"). Also, the 4A-FE had more power. The engine was succeeded by the 3ZZ-FE, a 1.6-liter engine with VVT-i technology."

Some tracks/events have their own unique license (Wakefield) while others like Eastern Creek require from memory L2NS/L2S. Off the street drag only need license from memory unless you're running faster than a certain bracket? You'll have to ask someone that does drags, I don't drive solely in a straight line lol

Get Reading

S-Drives are still a pretty hard compound compared to most Daryl, should last some yet =P

Kissed goodbye to my race spec 10,000RPM+ with 200PS+ setup... On a flatbed to my mates workshop... :o

Really? My C-Drives when I had it refused to die... The compound I found it to be pretty damn hard... Performance was reasonable imo but then again you're talking to someone that thinks AD08 and RE11 to be nice! XD RE001s are my good compromise between performance, longevity and comfort... Pirelli wise, aim for the upper range (PZero onwards) their lower range are quite... average lol

Sometimes association with one club isn't enough... You need more? :o

Lol, real JDM look... Anyway call an aero parts shop like JetSpeed, Carmate, etc And ask them for quotes on custom work etc...

RDA use cheaper metal than the DBA Street series... Don't bother taking it out to the track with a semi-aggressive pad, it'll die

I'm all good for that 3 days (Fri - Sun) =D Lets see if my baby is okay by then...

Don't forget DBA have the Street Series, 4000 Series and 5000 series so there are different prices too (different grade metal) :)

Personally, I think buying an older/used model (TomTom is my preference) with a large screen (Small screen are totally useless imo) <$200 is the way to go. Battery life as DemonRolla mentioned can occur depending how the unit is used. If you overcharge it, the battery life will decrease overtime but a good charge now and then should keep it healthy =)