Taka

Haha it is funny. I think it is will be the problem of the underperformed Sensis map.

2006/7 Kluger so it is not your model??? But I have to ask, why put them on... so 70s :P

I have to agree on the numbering, since once I was pointed to the wrong place in the long main road (not good). What makes me feel strange that is ... the portable unit and stuff are using the SAME map. Why the database is so lacking??? We need update urgently. We need feedback from the V14 owners since the V15 suppose to turn up in next Sept/Oct

Not bad of a right foot at all boleh. I found that if you are judging how much you use the right foot to the instant fuel consumption gauge, you actually learn a lot about economical driving. Like: No sudden acceleration. Predict the traffic and off the gas early. Even low speed crawling save more fuel then stop and start. Use 95/98 more than 91 petrol. But a mixture of it is the best for economy. You see whenever I jump to the Kluger which my wife has been driving... the display always show 16.XL/100km. But after a short trip in my hand, it will dip back to 15.XL/100km. Mind you it is not bad for her since she is driving from Kew to Kew or Kew to Prahran.

You live in a newly developed area Leeder? The map is only good for 2006 in v13. The map is much better this day. The disappointment that you guys talked about is the map database. The only thing that Toyota system cannot fix is the fact that there is no custom POI (point of interest). Without that, I cannot put all the mobile camera and fix camera points......

I will have to do some experiment for the v13 I had. I said somewhere else that last time I copied a mirror image to the harddisk and THEN burn it to a dual layer DVD. It worked, but the route searching function does not get beyond the major cities. I had to see what is going on there first.

Just search the right place in the whereis.com website http://poweredby.whereis.com/shop/Whereis-...tml?nref=WIsite $395.... or $39.50 if 10 people are sharing ;)

How update is the V14's map. I wonder if I should wait until the Eastlink is included. There are many new places since 2006 map in the V13 you know. My cousin lives in Tarneit and I cannot even search her place. BTW, if you wanna new map in the portable unit ... you still have to pay.

I expect that there are upgraded map. So they will not show I am off the road when I travel through the Pakenham bypass and the new area in the Tullamarine freeway.

Trailer problem or connector problem???. Hang on the trailer hirer did it for me but I did not see him searching for a switch.

Thanks, Melvin As the privacy glass is for the kids, it is important to know...

If the wiring is there, then it is a much simpler job. You can get a switch somewhere in the dash and switch it on then.

How about the switch - do you have a switch on the right side indicator stick? If not you may have to change it too. And also the wiring on the dash need some big job (I think you have to get it out to put the wires in), so that it show up the fog light signal on the dash.

1. Have the phone paired to the handsfree 2. Press the voice dial button on the steering wheel. 3. It will say "please say the name of the person you wish to call now....BEEP" 4. Say the name. If it recognises the name it will bring it up on the screen. So far it has recogised every attempt I've made (around 10 times, both stationary and driving on a noisy road) 5. Once I've confirmed its the right entry, I press the pick up phone button on the wheel. I think I need to press it at least twice before it starts dialling. Hope that helps. Ray Ray, do you have to set up the voice tag to the person first. Or it is like my Nokia N95 that it can recognise the people's english name without preset its voice tag (btw I think N95 is very smart that way). Also I found the voice tag (that is how I use it atm) does not speak Cantonese! I use Cantonese tag and it is not working, but when I use English, it is fine.

I am not 100% sure the average after refill is triggered by the fuel cap. I think it is triggered by fuel sensor detecting an increase. Tell you why I think that. Because there were couple of times I refilled to the top when the tank was 90% full (well you had to do that when you saw cheap fuel.... ), the "average after refill" did not reset. So I think when the ECU sense a significant increase in level and triggered the reset... <_<

I would rather get a new car. Even it is only have less than 1000km in it. It is still old and should not have to pay for anything near new car price I am sorry. My mate's Aston Martin has 1900km on the clock so far and only just 10 months old. He expects to lose $70K when he sells it from brand new. I would absolutely scream at a dealer (and refuse to take the car) if my new car is more than 50km in the odometer. My last 3 cars there was only 38km, 13km and 5km respectively when I picked it up.

That is the reason I keep forgeting too. I forgot we have high profile tyres . But the casing is much stronger and can get rid of heat more, so it can tolerate lower pressure but I really don't want to risk it. Have a cushion or something to get myself comfortable. Holiday season coming up, if anyone going away (like us), should do an once-over (eye ball all fluid levels and check tyres for puncture) before setting off, since there will be a queue at tyre shops just before Easter. And Victorians have a long weekend coming up too.

I was told my the defensive driving course (whose company started with an M....). I am not promoting them now since Kevin (whom I have known for a few years) is holding similar driving course. At least he is doing at lot of stunt courses Having said that, it is common knowledge being pass on in any driving course I have been to. The recommanded psi is aimed for comfort. But for safety you should get the tyres up to 36 psi for city and 40psi for highway. The reason being that even the modern technology of our tyres, the side wall is still relatively weak. Strong side wall tyres (the one more hardcore then sports, say R spec *semi slick tyres) will have disadvantage of road noise. New compound and thread now make it much stronger than ever before, but it is still not a substitute of good old fashion air power. The increase pressure will in fact flatten the rubber in contact with the ground. Hence, there is more rubber on the road. If you want observe it more closely. Spray a patch of water in your street outside (Government forbid it in Vic so you use your bath water to do that). Have the car with underinflated tyres (say 25psi). You will see the side of the tyres will imprint more water and the tract of water will show you that, after your Kluger went over the paddle of water. If you overinflate (say 50 psi), you will see more imprint in the middle. Yes it is very subjective still, but that is the theory. The reason of why they recommend 40psi on the highway? Well during high speed crusing, the tyre will heat up no matter what. The pressure will increase at the same time, to the same level despite the different amount of air you have in your tyre (so they said it will roughly be at 44psi while crusing). The amount of heat you generate is somehow in relation (although may not be in portion) to the amount of air inside of the tyre. So more air inside, the cooler the tyre will be. Logical since more air to absorb heat. I use that theory in my track driving as well. So after every session I went back to the pits. My wife and i will measure the tyre surface temperature with a laser gun. If it is too low (for my tyre it will be 65 degree for best grip), then I will lower the pressure to get more heat to the tyre. The converse is also true. Sorry that it is a long post but I am sure I can keep going on here. Also wheel alignment it also important but I am sure it is a different topic all together.

Interesting and agree the transmission will suffer first in towing. FYI, the day I went up to Benalla it was 35 degree C

That is one big macho bullbar. I am sure my wife would not like that. It will serve ur function pretty well though Leeder

I don't mind extra cooling, but the car is towing fine within the towing capacity.

All 4 in 38psi. Drop it for off road adventure, but if you ever been to ANY defensive driving course you will know. Sports car is different, and when I go to race track, I measure the tyre temperature and match it with the tyre pressure. That is another thread on its own

Should be ok. I remember the route in Halls Gap is rated easy. Any car can do it.

I got it for free... so I let the dealer to do it.

You have given a lot of tips to dealer principles around Australia Enjoy your stay here. I am loving the car. I am going to put out more 4WD trips suitable for novice driving.