New Performance Mods

[TRD Man]

Interesting topic. Let me make a couple of points.

TRD (& TOM'S for that matter) contract out the manufacture of their parts to a number of other manufacturers who have also their own brand.

This does not mean that parts sold under the manufacturers own brand are necessarily the same as TRD.

"All grass is green, but not everything that is green is grass".

I have asked Paul & Stuart not to disclose prices on this forum because we supply a good many trade customers who visit this forum who may be upset to learn the level of discount we offer members.

Additionally the exhange rate is very volatile at the moment and prices can change daily.

It is thanks to Paul, Stuart, Craig & a couple of others that I continue to offer the service I do to this forum. As rollamods stated, we don't make a lot of money from this service but as it is my livelihood, I think I need to make some.

As with any group, yours has those amongst it who will call or email for the free advice, sit comfortably in the knowledge that we'll always be here for support, yet opt for another supplier who's one off deal may be 5 bucks cheaper.

If it weren't for the support of those I've mentioned, I would have ceased supporting this forum some time ago. You have a lot to thank them for.

Remember the old adage " Quality doesn't cost, it pays!"

[Danthuyer]

Thx bruce ;)

[peekay]

Both TRD Clutches and Toms flywheels installed today. With the cable replacement . We both have big smiles..... (ILIVFOR6 and I that is). Notchy gears gone not going into gear also gone (so far....lol). Acceleration warp factor.... :o :o :o :o :o

[CAP]

Good to hear guys, can't wait to see first hand at the next meet

[peekay]

Yeah sure bring your tools and jack and go for it... :P Has a diffrent sound when it starts but very very qqqqqqqqqqqqqqquuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiccccckkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk :o

[kcorro]

bruce well written and makes good sense.

with the flywheel i have tried to explain verbally to a few members how it is but you really need to try it out to get the expression like peekay :o :o :o

looks like the unichip will be going back in very soon if not already in :)

Edited October 1, 2004 by kcorro

[CAP]

Opps

I meant see first hand how it goes :P

But I'm always happy to pull your car apart peekay, just can't guarantee i'll put it back together exactly the same :P ( I always finish up with spare bolts )

[peekay]

Very funny.. Yep the Unichip is going in very very soon after the muffle. The car is off next week for the development work (monday tuesday) and then we will see how we gooooo

[peekay]

Also big thank you to Bruce yet again...

Looked at the old clutch in my car ...glad I changed it about 70% worn...yuck

[grimlock]

did you get the organic clutch or the metal facing one?

[ZEEROLLA]

I heard new clutches need to be "run in", but correct me if i'm wrong. Give it 500-1000km or so to bed in properly and don't drive too hard during that period.

[peekay]

Organic clutch

[CAP]

What's the difference between organic and metal facing clutches ?

[ZEEROLLA]

Organic clutches are easier to slip when you drive in traffic and stuff. Metal facing clutches are like brass-button clutches with much more friction and very hard to slip. Basically you will get a thump or hard vibration when you try to slip the clutch, if not the car just stalls because it grips in an instant. Many people stall the car when they have a metal face clutch in their car for the first time. Not recommended for street use.

What's the difference between organic and metal facing clutches ? 

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[imek]

Also big thank you to Bruce yet again...

Looked at the old clutch in my car ...glad I changed it about 70% worn...yuck

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I'm having mine replaced under warranty. Totally worn after just 45k km.

[ZEEROLLA]

I don't think any Toyota dealership will replace a worn clutch. It is due to wear and tear and varies from car to car.

Also big thank you to Bruce yet again...

Looked at the old clutch in my car ...glad I changed it about 70% worn...yuck

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I'm having mine replaced under warranty. Totally worn after just 45k km.

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[imek]

I don't think any Toyota dealership will replace a worn clutch.  It is due to wear and tear and varies from car to car. 

They already ordered a new one for me :). A few of my friends have already had the clutch replaced. All under warranty.

The thing is, that no matter how much you abuse your clutch (in normal driving) it should last at least 100k km. Toyota Motor Poland knows it, and replaces clutches and gear cables No Questions Asked. Not long ago TMP was also replacing front and rear rotors. I had mine rears replaced 10 kkm ago, but now something changed and they are not willing to cover my fronts.

[ZEEROLLA]

:o :o You are kidding me, in the service book i remember it saying clutch discs are not covered under warranty, just like brake pads ain't! Because clutch discs can start to slip way before 100,000kms if you abuse it like doing burnouts or are a bad driver resting your foot on the clutch constantly. But i guess an argument is that if the car only has low ks like under 30,000kms, the clutch should still be in reasonable condition if not good. If what you say is true i will be asking TMCA the same questions and getting them to do something.

Zee

I don't think any Toyota dealership will replace a worn clutch.  It is due to wear and tear and varies from car to car. 

They already ordered a new one for me :). A few of my friends have already had the clutch replaced. All under warranty.

The thing is, that no matter how much you abuse your clutch (in normal driving) it should last at least 100k km. Toyota Motor Poland knows it, and replaces clutches and gear cables No Questions Asked. Not long ago TMP was also replacing front and rear rotors. I had mine rears replaced 10 kkm ago, but now something changed and they are not willing to cover my fronts.

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Edited October 4, 2004 by ZEEROLLA

[Captain Upsidedown]

sorry to dig up an old thread, but this is a discussion i havent looked back on since posting.

Yeah i rekon my post does sound pretty harsh, but if you have faith in your purchase, you have nothing to worry about and everything to be proud of. Sorry to those i offended :)

Interesting that this clutch and flywheel combo fixes the much discussed notchy box syndrome you guys have.

In response to Nikich's request, and just as an example that im not just a tool with nothing better to do as some of you think ;) Here are my cars and mods, ala rollamods style

AE71 Corolla Sedan

# 4age 100kW conversion

# converted motor from FWD to RWD layout

# modified water outlets to use FWD water pump

# re-wired loom and removed redundant wires

# T50 box from TE72

# Te72 tailshaft and T series live axle rear

# "custom" thermofan

# Kmac suspension (shocks/springs)

# Electric Oil pressure guage

# Lift pump, home-made surge tank and bosch 910 EFI pump

# 4-1 mandrel bent headers with 2" press bent pipe

This car was a $300 turdbox me and a friend bought as a runaround for when we busted our real cars, but it kinda took off when i bought the 4age for $100. Everything was done by me on my driveway except a wheel alignment (i was only 2mm off with my measurements tho!). The 4age is a great little engine for the car, since its so light its just zips around everywhere :)

There is a turbo and manifold sitting next to me ready for use, but the $$$ need to be saved first and i need to fix my other car

1977 RA28 celica Liftback

# koni red shocks

# unknown LOWWW springs

# whiteline swaybars and bushes

# MA61 supra seats

# simmons F90 15*7 wheels

# Supra W58 gearbox and custom bellhousing

# 18R-G twincam 8V

# TRD copy 4-2-1 headers with 2" press bent exhaust

# currently converting to EFI, rebuilding engine with forged pistons and some headwork, ready for a beefy T28/35 :D

# full buildup from a bare shell

The koni's really make a BIG improvement over using munroe or other family brand shocks - it never bottoms or anything. The ride is very stiff, not recommended for the comfort seekers, but it holds the road very well in most road conditions. There is a bit of an oversteer issue but that i belive is due to the different spring in the rear (harder). The 18R-G is a dinosaur of a motor, but it fits in perfectly with the era of the car and suits what i want from the car. All the EFI gear is factory atm, but will change over to something aftermarket once i make my mind up. I recommend an RA28 to anyone with a weekend passion for classic toyotas! It's how i got started :)

AE101 Corolla Sedan

# currently converting to 4A-GZE supercharged engine

# E58 LSD gbox

# Front mount IC

# possible turbo conversion in there too

This isnt my car, but a conversion i am doing for someone in my spare time. Its not too hard a swap as the supercharged engine comes from the same model car in japan, only i bought the front half as a "front cut" from Ichiban Imports and pulled everthing out to go into this guy's Aussie sedan.

On top of this, i have wired up about 3-5 engine conversions in different stages of ccompletion, do all wiring myself, almost eveything mechanical i do myself too. I dont have a garage, only a carport and an uneven driveway.

Anyway, i hope thats the answer you were after Nikich. I can go into further details with you if you like, best off asking via PM though.

[Tivo Matt]

Interesting that this clutch and flywheel combo fixes the much discussed notchy box syndrome you guys have.

Very interesting... now lets submit it to Toyota as a fix and all claim our new lightweight flywheels and clutches ;) :) ;) :P

[ADR_rolla]

today service is pulling my clutch out of my car to have a look at it, ive told em the trd clutch has repaired the problem. So they know that a new clutch may have to be made or the orginal one has to be modified or that half the batch already made might be all all ****house, as some rolla dont have this problem. I'll keep you all posted on the outcome.

Edited October 11, 2004 by ADR_rolla

[ZEEROLLA]

Interesting that this clutch and flywheel combo fixes the much discussed notchy box syndrome you guys have.

Very interesting... now lets submit it to Toyota as a fix and all claim our new lightweight flywheels and clutches ;) :) ;) :P

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Already did that and Toyota is now investigating <_<

[xoom]

Will also mention this when i see the guys at toyota.

[ADR_rolla]

OK THEY REPLACED THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY AND MACHINED THE FLYWHEEL TO MAKE IT MORE SMOOTH. nOW AFTER DRIVING IT CHANGING FROM 1ST TO 2ND WAS STILL HARD ( AS IN ITS HARD TO PULL IT OUT OF FIRST AND HARD TO PUT IT INTO 2ND) HOWEVER 2ND TO THIRD WAS ALOT SMOOTHER. tHEY TOLD ME TO DRIVE IT AROUND AND IF IM NOT HAPPY TO BRING IT BACK AND THEY WILL TRY SOMTHNG ELSE.. sO THERE YOU GO.. SOME SMALL PROGRESS I WILL KEEP GOING BACK TILL THEY FIX IT.... wHAT I SHOULD SAY TO THEM IS " hERE IS THE CAR I DONT WANT IT BACK UNTIL YOU HAVE FIXED IT" SO THEY HAVE TO DO IT HEHEHEHE....

CHEERS

[Ilivfor6]

Well I've done nearly 2000km since the clutch & Flywheel and not one single instance ot the old gearbox/gear change issue.

In fact I have been so confident with it that I have been practising my 1-2 changes and starting to get a lot quicker. Even with the lightened flywheel I am on most occasions kepping the car approx 200-300 rpm higher after the change than before. Almost... almost keeping it in lift :D :D :D