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Replacing wheel bearing


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Gday mate

Are you doing front or rear wheel bearing and wat type of car. And make sure you have the right eqiupment including a press so you can press the old bearing off.

And i think you may need a bit of wheel bearing grease and maybe rubber grease.

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Get ready, corolla front wheel bearings are EXPENSIVE!!! they are quite a large bearing and will set you back somewhere near $150 each. When you put the new bearing in load the hub up with Castrol HTB (High Temperature Bearing) Grease ($10 for a whole tub). YOu may want to use some rubber grease (the white stuff) but i used the bearing grease for all my seals with no problems as of yet. Also make sure you you torque all the bolts up to their specified levels. (Hope you got the corolla service manual to help you out)

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OK so far you guys have advised i get the following- by the way it's the front-right wheel of an AE92:

"Castrol HTB (High Temperature Bearing) Grease ($10 for a whole tub)"

Fair enough, that's easy.

"torque all the bolts up to their specified levels"

So i need a torque wrench, how much are they, like $100 right? What about a breaker bar? Or the wrench will do?

(Hope you got the corolla service manual to help you out)

Yeh got that off the net.

"press so you can press the old bearing off."

What's the name i give to Repco? A 'bearing press'?

Also do i need a replacement cotter pin?

Cheers fellas.

Also my CV joint is stuffed. Far as i know i can use the same stuff as above (torque wrench/grease) to do the job? Any more advice i'm all ears :P

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A breaker bar makes the job of losening the hub bolt really easy but you'll need the torque wrench to put it back on with the correct settings. makes sure your torque wrench can get to the recommended setting (some of the cheaper ones won't)

the best thing to do is to take out he cotter pin (you won't need a new one if you don't break it), undo the lower control arm, undo the steering tie-rod, prop the drive shaft up with some blocks of wood and then undo the strut. the knuckle should then come out for what you need to do to it.

the entire shaft including the CV should come off from the flange (six bolts if i remember correctly).

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Thanks for that!

I thought i could remove the CV joint and half shaft without undoing the tie-rod end?

But the strut and knuckle i need to undo, agreed.

So my list has on it:

High temp grease

Breaker bar

Torque wrench (not the cheapo ones)

sockets (what sizes do i need that aren't in a regular socket set?)

new CV joint & bearings

what about the press for the bearings? Wtf does it do? :rolleyes:

Cheers!

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sounds like you dont have the tools required to complete the job. Buy the bearing kit, wash the grease out of it, pack it with your preferred grease and take it to a mechanic to get it fitted.

To replace the bearing...

-Jack car up, support on chassis stands

-Remove wheel

-remove driveshaft nut with 30mm deep socket

-Remove the two nuts and one bolt from the ball joint to the suspension arm

-Remove the steering arm ball joint from the carrier arm

-Remove the brake caliper and disc, tie the caliper to the spring with wire etc to support it and not stress the brake line.

-Remove the two bolts holding the hub assembly to the strut

-Pull the hub assembly off the driveshaft and suspension arm (will most likely require tapping the driveshaft stub end out of the hub assembly first.)

Once the assembly is off the car...

-I modify the brake dust shield so it can be removed with the hub still pressed into the bearings, then remove the shield

-Support the assembly perfectly level in a hydraulic press

-Press out the hub from the inner bearing using a suitibly sized socket (one that will just fit through the center of the old bearing)

-Remove the outer bearing from the hub with a bearing splitter in the press

-Remove the inner seal from the carrier

-Press out the inner and outer bearing races from the carrier housing using the appropriate bearing race die's

-Clean the carrier housing

-Press the new bearing races into the carrier using bearing-fit and appropriate dies

-fit new dust seal

-fit the new bearings to the races after you've packed them with your preferred high-temp wheel bearing grease

-Press the old cleaned hub into the new bearings in the carrier

-Re-fit the brake dust shield

Refit the whole assembly to the car.

Ensure you torque the driveshaft nut to the specified amount as if it's not tight enough the new bearings will flog out. The bearings rely on the driveshaft nut torque to operate as designed.

The bearing kit is about $60 from CBC, for the same bearing Toyota charge you hundreds for.

Edited by rollamods
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Wow, great tutorial RollaMods.

Yeh i'll have to get those tools, but i'll make some calls to see how much labour will cost. Might be reasonable.

I called CBC and they're giving me a half-shaft, CV joint and bearings all for $205. I spoke to Graham and he said i can remove the old assembly, put the new one on and whack on the old wheel hub.

Will this be a bolt off-bolt on job cause i'm hoping i won't need to press the bearings in/out with this setup.

Thanks again for all the top advice fellas. :)

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why are you changing the CV? What's wrong with it.

Replacement crap chinese CV shafts are about $150ea, You will not be getting a complete hub/carrier assembly with bearings and a CV shaft for $205

$150 for a cheapo shaft and $65 for a bearing kit sounds about right though. The press, bearing splitter and die's will cost another $500 or so. Workshop labour would be around the $120 mark to get it done professionally.

Edited by rollamods
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Yeh the shaft is 160 and bearing 60, got it rounded off to $205.

Hmmm, i'll call around workshops and see what the price is looking like, if it's $120ish then i'll save on getting the press, die's etc.

Thanks :whistling:

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  • 11 months later...

Hi Guys

where is CBC? I am in Sydney, Australia.

My ZZE Levin has humming noise from the drivers front wheel. I think its the bearing. I am however willing to change the hub as well (getting my mechanic to do it). Toyota's price is: Bearing - $105, Hub - $109. Would you recommend an aftermarket assembly instead?

Please suggest if I have to mention anything precautionary (dont do this, dont do that.. etc.) before he begins the job.

thanks a lot in advance guys.

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Hi guys

I took my car to another mechanic. He checked and thought the problem is within diff/gearbox assembly. He thinks its a damaged bearing within the diff. and Not in the wheel bearing/hub.

I bought the car about a month ago privately and just told by my mechanic that the car was previously in a major accident (he looked underneath the car). well, i did REVS check and the car wasn't on the list.... but anyways, now i gotta resolve this!

do i need to buy the whole diff/gearbox assembly? or is it possible to fix only the problematic bits? which would be cheaper without sacrificing safety/reliability?

Brand new or second hand?

where can i get a good bargain?

I would really appreciate your suggestions on this subject matter!!! Please HELP!!!!!!

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