Lowering my 01 camry

[{{HoTtWaXx}}]

hey guys, im interested in lowering my 2001 camry Conquest.

First of all, what does this entail.

how much drop for lows and super lows will i get

What does it cost.

any good places in melbourne?

thanks in advance

[X-Power]

well here in Canberra, ACT is pretty easy and cheap. we have a place called Ozy tyers, i usualy go there tell them how low i want my car and they make custom springs and put it on the car. all up cost me $400. im sure places like this should be in VIC too

[{{HoTtWaXx}}]

wow cool i was expecting it to cost a bit more...thats awesum i shall check out the next wheel + tyre joint i drive past :)

[leasaunce]

I can tell you the price for lowering your car.

I did it to my camry, With superlows. got the springs of eBay $210aud.

Installation cost is around $150-$300, depends where you go. My mechanic can do them for $100 (all 4), while my mobile mechanic charged $60 per spring.

so search around and goodluck!

[X-Power]

wow cool i was expecting it to cost a bit more...thats awesum i shall check out the next wheel + tyre joint i drive past :)

good luck mate! oh btw if you having low profile tiers, don't get it very stiff/hard springs. unless you like to go in to the bumps, not over them :P

no ride comforts, specially being camry i really wouldn't recommend that.

[Dead]

wow cool i was expecting it to cost a bit more...thats awesum i shall check out the next wheel + tyre joint i drive past :)

good luck mate! oh btw if you having low profile tiers, don't get it very stiff/hard springs. unless you like to go in to the bumps, not over them :P

no ride comforts, specially being camry i really wouldn't recommend that.

Bah, don't be soft (pun intended) lul. Nothing is bumpy until you have track rated springs sitting in coilovers!

Kidneys are ****ed but it's worth it. I look hectik.

[X-Power]

mate trust me, you dont want stiffy camry! they look wrong, smell wrong, drive wrong and handel wrong. EVERYTHING wrong lol

[Wixy]

mate trust me, you dont want stiffy camry! they look wrong, smell wrong, drive wrong and handel wrong. EVERYTHING wrong lol

hes right on that one

i have 16inches on mine and though it looks like a bloody 4wd im happy with the non stiffness....

i just wish the stock front springs/ride height isnt so bloody high.

what is with that? the back looks fine but the front just looks ridiculous

so that brings me to another question...i think its a silly one.

how can i make only the front ride height lower?

[X-Power]

first get correct profile tyers, that should get the highet back to normal factory level or just get springs for front. there is a diffrent way too but.....

Cut it!

Edited April 22, 2008 by X-Power

[wishbone]

yeah dont get them too stiff....jst aint worth it....

[RelishGTP]

Hey all.

In regards to lowering, superlows are fine even with low profile tires it's more your bump stops ,cambor/castor and bushings you need to be worried about.

I'm speaking from experience here.

My car is lowered with King superlows (roughly 2" drop) stiff as and rolling on 17" wheels and it's still smooth as factory but handles like a demon.

Most people seem to think they can just lower a car (springs) on a factory suspension setup and your all good....WRONG.

Without short bump stops, correct cambor and castor setup and decent struts, ie more than likely not the ones that are in your car and in bad need of replacing then your right... lowering and it will ride like crap.

Not to mention bushes bushes every where to do this right.

If you get yourself a GOOD setup with nothing overlooked dropping it by a whole heap will not be a problem.

[X-Power]

yeah but that is more than $1500 setup, we just want cheap craps :P

[Wixy]

first get correct profile tyers, that should get the highet back to normal factory level or just get springs for front. there is a diffrent way too but.....

i didnt know u could just lower the front.

has anyone done that here? hows the ride?! i thought it wasnt safe or something.

[Dead]

One does not simply 'Ghetto Camry' unfortunatley :(

The end result, albeit expensive, is rather bonertastic.

Amir, there was a guy here in Canberra that had a low, uber kitted gold Vienta (same shape as yours). I'm not too sure where the car is now, but it was unreal. Had a JDM turbo setup on the quad cam. Methinks it was bagged.

[anothercamry]

i have 16inches on mine and though it looks like a bloody 4wd im happy with the non stiffness....

i just wish the stock front springs/ride height isnt so bloody high.

what is with that? the back looks fine but the front just looks ridiculous

i've been thinking exactly the same thing. the back looks fine but front is well, you've already summed it up, ridiculous.

the problem with lowering the front only is that then the car would sit like a drag car (lower at front, higher at back) and you subsequently lose a heap of handling ability through with more understeer. being a front wheel drive already i'd imagine in a sticky situation / wet weather, such a car would easily get the driver into a big mess.

[Wixy]

i have 16inches on mine and though it looks like a bloody 4wd im happy with the non stiffness....

i just wish the stock front springs/ride height isnt so bloody high.

what is with that? the back looks fine but the front just looks ridiculous

i've been thinking exactly the same thing. the back looks fine but front is well, you've already summed it up, ridiculous.

the problem with lowering the front only is that then the car would sit like a drag car (lower at front, higher at back) and you subsequently lose a heap of handling ability through with more understeer. being a front wheel drive already i'd imagine in a sticky situation / wet weather, such a car would easily get the driver into a big mess.

yea i know it would be really bad in terms of wear and tear of tyres and handling, but i guess im just lowering it like the slightest bit. LOL if that option exists haha. they shouldve put more thought in2 designing cars.

i remember my sv21 camry was poorly designed, though it was reliable, but it was like a rushed product. the needle would heat up and not work so i had no speedo!

[Whip Cracker]

Straight from Russ a.k.a BlindEyeSight on an Australian Camry Forum called auscam.freeforums.org...

How to: Replace Struts and springs.

I have posted this else where but thought it might be helpful for all those looking at replacing there struts / springs or lowering there Camry

NOTE:

This was carried out on a 99 V6 Camry (GEN4) Im not a certified mechanic. And I followed the Haynes Manual. This is a guideline to show whats involved

I've noticed that that the GEN 3 is very similar in its setup, and im sure you could adapt it to other models....

If you are mechanically minded and love doing this work on your car, i do recommend DIY. it saves you a lot of money and you learn from it. its a win win situation.

Recommended Tools:

2 jacks

Jack stands

socket set

Spring Compressors

Hammer

Punch

Allan key

Haynes Manual (This is been the best tool for me so far)

Parts used

4 Monroe GT struts

4 king spring lows

4 strut mates

Goal:

To replace the strut, springs and strut mates

Strut Assembly (Front) Removal

Before Starting make sure the park brake is on and block the rear wheels, to make sure the car will not roll.

STEPS

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts, raise and support your car securely using the jack stand. Remove the wheel.

2. Once your wheel is off, you will see your strut assembly. Attached is the control arm (via the steering knuckle), Brake line, ABS speed sensor wire and a link bar that is attached to the stabilizer bar. Remove the ABS speed sensor bracket off the strut and then do the same for the brake line. Using a jack, support the control arm. (This is done because if the control arm falls it may destroy the brake line or ABS sensor wire.)

3. Loosen the damper shaft nut (Center nut on top) BUT DO NOT REMOVE IT.

4. Remove the link bar from the strut. You may need the allen key for this.

5. Remove the Strut-to-knuckle nuts (The nuts holding the control arm on) then knock the bolts out with a hammer and punch. Take a little care as the steering knuckle may fall outwards and stretch or damage the brake line.

6. Your strut assembly should now have nothing attached to it. Now remove the 3 strut mount nuts and remove the strut assembly

7. Using spring compressors, compress the springs sufficiently so that the seat or top mount is able to be moved. TAKE CARE AS THE SPRING WILL BE PLACED UNDER A LOT OF PRESSURE. Remove the damper shaft nut and suspension support (Suspension support is the top mount containing the 3 strut mount bolts.)

8. Next remove the seat and then remove the spring and place in a safe isolated spot.

9. Inspect the seat and rubber components as they may need to be replaced.

10. With the new strut make sure it is fully extended. Place the lower rubber insulator in to position making sure all grooves match up.

11. Setup and add the new strut mate to the new strut. (follow strut mate instructions for setup)

12. Compress new springs and carefully place onto the strut. Make sure the end of the spring is resting into the groove on the lower insulator on the strut.

13. Place the upper insulator into the seat matching the OUT arrow markings

14. Place the seat onto the strut making sure the flats on the damper shaft match the flats in the hole on the seat.

15. Make sure the OUT arrow faces toward the lower bracket of the strut, where the steering knuckle fits. Make sure the seat dose not slip from its position on the damper shaft.

16. Install the suspension mount and align the arrows with the lower bracket of the strut. Then install the damper shaft nut and tighten

17. Now follow in reverse from step 7 back to step 1

18. Then repeat for the opposite side.

That is the front strut assembly done. After completing this process it is recommended that you have a wheel alignment done.

That information is in the "How To" section. I'm planning to do this myself. You can hire spring compressors from most Auto Stores... I'd think a DIY would provide some good experience mate.

Edited April 29, 2008 by Whip Cracker

[anothercamry]

7. Using spring compressors, compress the springs sufficiently so that the seat or top mount is able to be moved. TAKE CARE AS THE SPRING WILL BE PLACED UNDER A LOT OF PRESSURE. Remove the damper shaft nut and suspension support (Suspension support is the top mount containing the 3 strut mount bolts.)

hope people take note of the bit in upper case, need to be real careful with spring compressors, don't use a cheap supash!t pair. If those things slip off. they will come off hard with potential for putting a huge dent in your car or worse, great injury to anyone standing close by...

my personal recommendation is remove the strut assembly, take it to your local suspension shop or mechanics who have the proper gear and get them to do the remove and install of spring / struts. costs about twice what you would pay to borrow the spring compressors but takes away all the risk of injury.

[wishbone]

Straight from Russ a.k.a BlindEyeSight on an Australian Camry Forum called auscam.freeforums.org...

How to: Replace Struts and springs.

I have posted this else where but thought it might be helpful for all those looking at replacing there struts / springs or lowering there Camry

NOTE:

This was carried out on a 99 V6 Camry (GEN4) Im not a certified mechanic. And I followed the Haynes Manual. This is a guideline to show whats involved

I've noticed that that the GEN 3 is very similar in its setup, and im sure you could adapt it to other models....

If you are mechanically minded and love doing this work on your car, i do recommend DIY. it saves you a lot of money and you learn from it. its a win win situation.

Recommended Tools:

2 jacks

Jack stands

socket set

Spring Compressors

Hammer

Punch

Allan key

Haynes Manual (This is been the best tool for me so far)

Parts used

4 Monroe GT struts

4 king spring lows

4 strut mates

Goal:

To replace the strut, springs and strut mates

Strut Assembly (Front) Removal

Before Starting make sure the park brake is on and block the rear wheels, to make sure the car will not roll.

STEPS

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts, raise and support your car securely using the jack stand. Remove the wheel.

2. Once your wheel is off, you will see your strut assembly. Attached is the control arm (via the steering knuckle), Brake line, ABS speed sensor wire and a link bar that is attached to the stabilizer bar. Remove the ABS speed sensor bracket off the strut and then do the same for the brake line. Using a jack, support the control arm. (This is done because if the control arm falls it may destroy the brake line or ABS sensor wire.)

3. Loosen the damper shaft nut (Center nut on top) BUT DO NOT REMOVE IT.

4. Remove the link bar from the strut. You may need the allen key for this.

5. Remove the Strut-to-knuckle nuts (The nuts holding the control arm on) then knock the bolts out with a hammer and punch. Take a little care as the steering knuckle may fall outwards and stretch or damage the brake line.

6. Your strut assembly should now have nothing attached to it. Now remove the 3 strut mount nuts and remove the strut assembly

7. Using spring compressors, compress the springs sufficiently so that the seat or top mount is able to be moved. TAKE CARE AS THE SPRING WILL BE PLACED UNDER A LOT OF PRESSURE. Remove the damper shaft nut and suspension support (Suspension support is the top mount containing the 3 strut mount bolts.)

8. Next remove the seat and then remove the spring and place in a safe isolated spot.

9. Inspect the seat and rubber components as they may need to be replaced.

10. With the new strut make sure it is fully extended. Place the lower rubber insulator in to position making sure all grooves match up.

11. Setup and add the new strut mate to the new strut. (follow strut mate instructions for setup)

12. Compress new springs and carefully place onto the strut. Make sure the end of the spring is resting into the groove on the lower insulator on the strut.

13. Place the upper insulator into the seat matching the OUT arrow markings

14. Place the seat onto the strut making sure the flats on the damper shaft match the flats in the hole on the seat.

15. Make sure the OUT arrow faces toward the lower bracket of the strut, where the steering knuckle fits. Make sure the seat dose not slip from its position on the damper shaft.

16. Install the suspension mount and align the arrows with the lower bracket of the strut. Then install the damper shaft nut and tighten

17. Now follow in reverse from step 7 back to step 1

18. Then repeat for the opposite side.

That is the front strut assembly done. After completing this process it is recommended that you have a wheel alignment done.

That information is in the "How To" section. I'm planning to do this myself. You can hire spring compressors from most Auto Stores... I'd think a DIY would provide some good experience mate.

nice one mate!!!