Air intake mods

[SCOOTA44]

Yesterday I added more pipe to the cold air feed and out of the bottom of the stone tray (idea from Daryl) to set up a "forced induction" of the cooler air, almost straight away up came the CEL. It seems if you push the air in too much the MAF throws a wobbly,works better naturally drawing air, and after resetting the ECU and driving all day today no problems.

[fuel miser]

Yesterday I added more pipe to the cold air feed and out of the bottom of the stone tray (idea from Daryl) to set up a "forced induction" of the cooler air, almost straight away up came the CEL. It seems if you push the air in too much the MAF throws a wobbly,works better naturally drawing air, and after resetting the ECU and driving all day today no problems.

Maybe I am thinking too hard but here goes.

Hot engine, hot re-circulated exhaust gases being fed back into the cylinders versus' ambient air temp. What effect will the ambient air (lets say 22C) have on several hundred degrees C?

Also you can not force air into the engine as there needs to be a negative pressure inside the engine. This is usually generated across the air filter in a NA engine.

[DJKOR]

Well I think I have reached a decent point now which I can then use to get something made up. I am definitely sticking with the SRI type intake so no point discussing that choice. Just thought I would report my observations.

The intake design which I have been working with for the last couple of weeks would be the following (photo credit to u54mot):

About the only difference from the trial one I started with initially was that I added a section of pipe before the MAF mount (filter side) to make the filter sit about an inch and a half or so further from the MAF sensor. These seemed to have smoothed things out a little (not that it wasn't to start with).

Everything from there felt alright. That was until I had to send my car off to AAMI for assessment and repair. Before doing this, I put the stock airbox back in and straight away noticed a difference. It felt like it had just that little bit more pull and when you release the throttle sharply under acceleration, you get this sharp kind of ***** forward. This was barely there when I had my test intake on, and I clearly remember it being there prior to putting the intake on in the first place.

I remembered that my MAF adaptor comes with various reducers so I thought I would give this a go when I got my car back from the repairers. Well, I put in the 2.7 inch reducer (ie. the MAF sits in a section with an internal diameter of 2.7 inches), and it pretty much has that same feel as when the stock airbox was put back on.

So I guess it's one step closer in the right direction.

[SCOOTA44]

Well I think I have reached a decent point now which I can then use to get something made up. I am definitely sticking with the SRI type intake so no point discussing that choice. Just thought I would report my observations.

The intake design which I have been working with for the last couple of weeks would be the following (photo credit to u54mot):

About the only difference from the trial one I started with initially was that I added a section of pipe before the MAF mount (filter side) to make the filter sit about an inch and a half or so further from the MAF sensor. These seemed to have smoothed things out a little (not that it wasn't to start with).

Everything from there felt alright. That was until I had to send my car off to AAMI for assessment and repair. Before doing this, I put the stock airbox back in and straight away noticed a difference. It felt like it had just that little bit more pull and when you release the throttle sharply under acceleration, you get this sharp kind of ***** forward. This was barely there when I had my test intake on, and I clearly remember it being there prior to putting the intake on in the first place.

I remembered that my MAF adaptor comes with various reducers so I thought I would give this a go when I got my car back from the repairers. Well, I put in the 2.7 inch reducer (ie. the MAF sits in a section with an internal diameter of 2.7 inches), and it pretty much has that same feel as when the stock airbox was put back on.

So I guess it's one step closer in the right direction.

good work Daryl. where do you get the MAF adaptor ? I cant find anything like that here in hobart, even our "autobarn" is closing down so choices are very limited.also I have found if you slide battery as far to the left as possible and put in your stone tray mod, it will draw cooler air from inside the guard rather than the hotter air off the fans/radiator.

[450HP/tonne]

The intake design which I have been working with for the last couple of weeks would be the following (photo credit to u54mot):

I remembered that my MAF adaptor comes with various reducers so I thought I would give this a go when I got my car back from the repairers. Well, I put in the 2.7 inch reducer (ie. the MAF sits in a section with an internal diameter of 2.7 inches), and it pretty much has that same feel as when the stock airbox was put back on.

So I guess it's one step closer in the right direction.

good work Daryl. where do you get the MAF adaptor ? I cant find anything like that here in hobart, even our "autobarn" is closing down so choices are very limited.also I have found if you slide battery as far to the left as possible and put in your stone tray mod, it will draw cooler air from inside the guard rather than the hotter air off the fans/radiator.

I have seen them here: http://www.naparts.com.au/PDF/SEC1%20NAPARTS%202010%20Catalogue%20LOW-2.pdf

Chrome polymer finish on page 10 and Aluminium on page 12.

These guys are in North Melbourne and I'm looking at what I need. I have to check it fits the standard sensor.

Daryl, where did you get yours (and for roughly how much)?

[DJKOR]

good work Daryl. where do you get the MAF adaptor ? I cant find anything like that here in hobart, even our "autobarn" is closing down so choices are very limited.also I have found if you slide battery as far to the left as possible and put in your stone tray mod, it will draw cooler air from inside the guard rather than the hotter air off the fans/radiator.

Daryl, where did you get yours (and for roughly how much)?

I got mine from the eBay seller 'pamelam2006blue' (eBay store: performancechromecarandtruckparts). One product listing of the one I purchased is:

3"POLISH ALUM.AIR INTAKE SYS-MAFS ADAPTER/TUNING KIT

Currently US$34.49 + US$11.26 standard shipping. So with the crappy way PayPal does it's currency conversion, you would be looking at about AUD$56 landed.

[450HP/tonne]

Daryl, where did you get yours (and for roughly how much)?

3"POLISH ALUM.AIR INTAKE SYS-MAFS ADAPTER/TUNING KIT

Thats the Aluminium part I was looking at, made by "Spectre Performance" (Part No. 9405, [or 8705 for the chrome plastic])

Currently US$34.49 + US$11.26 standard shipping. So with the crappy way PayPal does it's currency conversion, you would be looking at about AUD$56 landed.

It just cost me $54.40 (after PayPal conversion).

Only compromise is that this is a 3 inch outside diameter, where the throttle body starts at 3 inch inside diameter :( and from there it tapers down to 70mm at the valve. Off to the shops on the weekend and I will share my solution then.

DJKOR, the standard intake at the MAF is 3 inch inside diameter, did you by chance measure the inside diameter of the Aluminium part of MAF adaptor you got?

Edited June 29, 2010 by 450HP/tonne

[DJKOR]

Only compromise is that this is a 3 inch outside diameter, where the throttle body starts at 3 inch inside diameter :( and from there it tapers down to 70mm at the valve. Off to the shops on the weekend and I will share my solution then.

Planning on getting your throttle body bored out?

DJKOR, the standard intake at the MAF is 3 inch inside diameter, did you by chance measure the inside diameter of the Aluminium part of MAF adaptor you got?

I didn't measure it, and I don't really want to take it off to do so. It shouldn't be much smaller. I would estimate to be about 2.95 inches ID.

I was completely aware of this prior to approaching this. For the record, the K&N SRI is a 3 inch outside diameter as well and it's internal diameter would be the same as this MAF adaptor. When fitted to a N/A Aurion, there appeared to be no issues at all. On my TRD though, the 3 inch MAF adaptor was not working so well and was in fact causing a power loss. This seems to be resolved with the 2.7 inch reducer. I'm not an expert on the subject, but I'm getting the reduced restriction in flow was probably causing the MAF to not read normally and the reducer has increased the velocity so now the MAF can read what it should be.

So the internal diameter of this MAF adaptor being slightly smaller than 3 inches isn't a concern for me it would appear. Seems like the TRD responds better with a smaller diameter than the N/A Aurion. Win in a way I guess if you own a TRD and are concerned that the 3 inch OD is too small.

[SCOOTA44]

Thanks for the info, have got one on order, $46.25, the reduction idea is interesting Daryl.

[Myxalplyx]

DJKor,

Something tells me that the problem is not the maf sensor but the K&N air filter itself. The filter element I think is fine but the base of the air filter (Where it connects to the maf sensor piping) I think is causing turbulent flow. If I were closer to you, I'd send you a 3" S&B air filter for testing, that has a different base that prevented a CEL for someone else that had a similar issue (N/A though..not supercharged). I'm thinking if the air filter was changed for one with a different base, and removing the 2.7" internal piece to get back to 3", you might be ok. I think I said this earlier in this thread but it may have gotten lost.

Also, do you have any intention on changing that 'accordion' looking piece between the maf sensor and throttle body? Not that it's a restriction or anything but it doesn't serve any flexing purpose now that the air filter end isn't tied down to the frame. Airflow may not be as smooth as it could be there. Then again, it's a moot point probably because you have a supercharger. <_<

Edited July 6, 2010 by Myxalplyx

[DJKOR]

I'm thinking if the air filter was changed for one with a different base, and removing the 2.7" internal piece to get back to 3", you might be ok. I think I said this earlier in this thread but it may have gotten lost.

Yep, that was mentioned. Thanks. Only issue is that we don't have much in Australia in terms of range when it comes to things like that. Only really have two brands, and the non-K&N is something you just can't really trust. So then comes the whole purchasing from the States, getting it shipped over, etc, which is just a pain in the backside when you only just got yourself a new filter. Once this one gets dirty, I will look into ordering the one you mentioned.

Also, do you have any intention on changing that 'accordion' looking piece between the maf sensor and throttle body? Not that it's a restriction or anything but it doesn't serve any flexing purpose now that the air filter end isn't tied down to the frame. Airflow may not be as smooth as it could be there. Then again, it's a moot point probably because you have a supercharger. <_<

The homebrew intake is actually tied down by means of a metal bracket attached to the MAF sensor mount. This means the intake is secure from swinging around and the rubber hose at the top allows the engine movement to occur with no issues. This is one reason why I have left it there for now.

The other reason is that I tried to chance it over for some 3 inch pipe but unfortunately the angle wasn't quite right and it all didn't fit in as desired. I have to stop over at an auto shop to get a piece bent to the right angle then I will work on mounting the intake in a similar fashion to the K&N SRI where it mounts to one of the throttle body bolts.

But by that point, I'll probably take it to a professional and have them make up a full SRI or CAI depending on my mood.

[Myxalplyx]

Well, if I can help out in any way, let me know. I've had fellows send me things from

Australia and some European countries throughout the years and me the other way around.

Even if for testing purposes, if it helps all in the name of experimentation, I'm all ears

for learning. PM me if needed.

[SCOOTA44]

Sorry it will be $56 at the door, cant wait to rebuild again as this part has caused me some concern for some time. can anyone tell me the vaccum pipe off the phelam chamber does that go straight into the intake or does it need a "one way vaccum valve" like on the top of the original airbox, or just plug it into the intake after the MAF ?

[DJKOR]

can anyone tell me the vaccum pipe off the phelam chamber does that go straight into the intake or does it need a "one way vaccum valve" like on the top of the original airbox, or just plug it into the intake after the MAF ?

When you get rid of your stock airbox, you can connect the vacuum hose direct to the plenum without the need of the one-way valve. The purpose of that valve was just so the intake butterfly would stay open under low vacuum conditions.

[SCOOTA44]

can anyone tell me the vaccum pipe off the phelam chamber does that go straight into the intake or does it need a "one way vaccum valve" like on the top of the original airbox, or just plug it into the intake after the MAF ?

When you get rid of your stock airbox, you can connect the vacuum hose direct to the plenum without the need of the one-way valve. The purpose of that valve was just so the intake butterfly would stay open under low vacuum conditions.

Thanks Daryl, thats how I have it now. I dont have the front engine mount hooked up, just tucked the hoses away, could not tell difference with it connected or not. cant wait for the MAF adaptor to arrive so I can build this intake properly.

[DJKOR]

Thanks Daryl, thats how I have it now. I dont have the front engine mount hooked up, just tucked the hoses away, could not tell difference with it connected or not. cant wait for the MAF adaptor to arrive so I can build this intake properly.

I personally would have still left the front engine mount connected to the vacuum line, but if you're fine with it that way, than okay then.

[SCOOTA44]

Thanks Daryl, thats how I have it now. I dont have the front engine mount hooked up, just tucked the hoses away, could not tell difference with it connected or not. cant wait for the MAF adaptor to arrive so I can build this intake properly.

I personally would have still left the front engine mount connected to the vacuum line, but if you're fine with it that way, than okay then.

I would if could remember which one to connect to (pelham down to smaller hose and larger hose to the intake???)

[fuel miser]

Here's a mod on an earlier mod suggestion made by myself.

Since the cooling of the fuel was too hard (dangerous) for some, do the following.

Make the same type of cooling canister as described.(DO NOT TOUCH THE FUEL LINES AT ANYTIME DURING THIS MOD)

Make up a coil arrangement to go either around your intake pipe work or inside your existing air box. Insulate the lines to the coils, the outside of the intake pipe work etc.

Buy a small 12V pump, mount it close too the cooling canister, wire it in permanent or via a switch(use a fuse for protection - don't want your car to burn if there is a fault), connect pipe from cooling canister to pump, from pump to coil on your intake pipe work or air box and from the other side back to the the cooling canister.(this will form a closed loop for the cooling water).

Fill the cooling water pipe work (bleed all the air out - add some food dye if you want to check for leaks etc), add ice/dry ice etc to the canister.

EXTRA MOD: Could also make a small reservoir/top-up arrangement if you want for the cooling water.

Turn the pump on, the water passing through the coil on your pipe work or coil in your air box will begin to cool and so to will any air passing through.

NOTE: if you fit a coil inside your air box there is a chance you will get condensation/slight water build up inside the air box during and after use. This must be removed as you don't want it getting onto your filter or into the engine. Maybe the coil could be added at the cold air intake near the radiator so the condensation etc doesn't get a chance to enter the duct work.

Edited July 17, 2010 by fuel miser

[SCOOTA44]

Here's a mod on an earlier mod suggestion made by myself.

Since the cooling of the fuel was too hard (dangerous) for some, do the following.

Make the same type of cooling canister as described.(DO NOT TOUCH THE FUEL LINES AT ANYTIME DURING THIS MOD)

Make up a coil arrangement to go either around your intake pipe work or inside your existing air box. Insulate the lines to the coils, the outside of the intake pipe work etc.

Buy a small 12V pump, mount it close too the cooling canister, wire it in permanent or via a switch(use a fuse for protection - don't want your car to burn if there is a fault), connect pipe from cooling canister to pump, from pump to coil on your intake pipe work or air box and from the other side back to the the cooling canister.(this will form a closed loop for the cooling water).

Fill the cooling water pipe work (bleed all the air out - add some food dye if you want to check for leaks etc), add ice/dry ice etc to the canister.

EXTRA MOD: Could also make a small reservoir/top-up arrangement if you want for the cooling water.

Turn the pump on, the water passing through the coil on your pipe work or coil in your air box will begin to cool and so to will any air passing through.

NOTE: if you fit a coil inside your air box there is a chance you will get condensation/slight water build up inside the air box during and after use. This must be removed as you don't want it getting onto your filter or into the engine. Maybe the coil could be added at the cold air intake near the radiator so the condensation etc doesn't get a chance to enter the duct work.

HOLY COW kelvinator for camry. lol

[fuel miser]

Whilst many may scoff at this method, I guarantee that you will get much colder air using this method (this method is none reliant on intake placement or where the air is drawn from) than any CAI method I have seen attempted here on this site or on any web site available.

Here's another tip, insulate the intake from the engine with a bakerlite spacer or some other non-heat conducting material.

[SCOOTA44]

Whilst many may scoff at this method, I guarantee that you will get much colder air using this method (this method is none reliant on intake placement or where the air is drawn from) than any CAI method I have seen attempted here on this site or on any web site available.

Here's another tip, insulate the intake from the engine with a bakerlite spacer or some other non-heat conducting material.

good idea as the intake does get hot while stopped or in slow traffic, once its up to normal speed the cooler air drawn in cools the intake. sheilding it would help,similar to the K&N sheild.

[SCOOTA44]

Well I think I have reached a decent point now which I can then use to get something made up. I am definitely sticking with the SRI type intake so no point discussing that choice. Just thought I would report my observations.

The intake design which I have been working with for the last couple of weeks would be the following (photo credit to u54mot):

About the only difference from the trial one I started with initially was that I added a section of pipe before the MAF mount (filter side) to make the filter sit about an inch and a half or so further from the MAF sensor. These seemed to have smoothed things out a little (not that it wasn't to start with).

Everything from there felt alright. That was until I had to send my car off to AAMI for assessment and repair. Before doing this, I put the stock airbox back in and straight away noticed a difference. It felt like it had just that little bit more pull and when you release the throttle sharply under acceleration, you get this sharp kind of ***** forward. This was barely there when I had my test intake on, and I clearly remember it being there prior to putting the intake on in the first place.

I remembered that my MAF adaptor comes with various reducers so I thought I would give this a go when I got my car back from the repairers. Well, I put in the 2.7 inch reducer (ie. the MAF sits in a section with an internal diameter of 2.7 inches), and it pretty much has that same feel as when the stock airbox was put back on.

So I guess it's one step closer in the right direction.

Hi Daryl, I got my adaptor the other day and used it as is, worked fine, then tried the 2.7 insert and got an error within half an hour, gone back to the original setup and no problems other than it seems a little "sluggy" taking off.

[DJKOR]

Hi Daryl, I got my adaptor the other day and used it as is, worked fine, then tried the 2.7 insert and got an error within half an hour, gone back to the original setup and no problems other than it seems a little "sluggy" taking off.

Well I did say:

For the record, the K&N SRI is a 3 inch outside diameter as well and it's internal diameter would be the same as this MAF adaptor.

When fitted to a N/A Aurion, there appeared to be no issues at all.

On my TRD though, the 3 inch MAF adaptor was not working so well and was in fact causing a power loss. This seems to be resolved with the 2.7 inch reducer.

My K&N is getting dirty rather quickly strangely enough (visual appearance anyways, but any excuse will do), so I may look into ordering an 'S&B' air filter from the States as mentioned previously and then experimenting with removing the reducer. Only thing is, as with anything I do, I'll have to take it back to the 1/4 to make sure I haven't lost any power. It's certainly cheaper than a dyno, but still... for $40 each time I go, I'm kinda over going. What I have now feels to me like it works so I am becoming less inclined to change it.

Well I'll put an S&B on, but I don't know about the reducer just yet.

[SCOOTA44]

Hi Daryl, I got my adaptor the other day and used it as is, worked fine, then tried the 2.7 insert and got an error within half an hour, gone back to the original setup and no problems other than it seems a little "sluggy" taking off.

Well I did say:

For the record, the K&N SRI is a 3 inch outside diameter as well and it's internal diameter would be the same as this MAF adaptor.

When fitted to a N/A Aurion, there appeared to be no issues at all.

On my TRD though, the 3 inch MAF adaptor was not working so well and was in fact causing a power loss. This seems to be resolved with the 2.7 inch reducer.

My K&N is getting dirty rather quickly strangely enough (visual appearance anyways, but any excuse will do), so I may look into ordering an 'S&B' air filter from the States as mentioned previously and then experimenting with removing the reducer. Only thing is, as with anything I do, I'll have to take it back to the 1/4 to make sure I haven't lost any power. It's certainly cheaper than a dyno, but still... for $40 each time I go, I'm kinda over going. What I have now feels to me like it works so I am becoming less inclined to change it.

Well I'll put an S&B on, but I don't know about the reducer just yet.

sorry Daryl I missed that info. lack of sleep.

[SCOOTA44]

Got the MAF adaptor in for nearly 2 weeks, a much happier car now, only the one glitch when I put caltex 98in (just intruduced here). threw an error, but gone back to 91 ulp and going well, dont see the need for 95 ulp now. pics tom.