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Brake pads


levinboy

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Which ones are the best choice??

I will be upgrading my rotors soon and i want a good pair of pads,

i have heard and seen on this forum that ferodo 2000 are good but not sure what else is out there??

Plus im not sure about the size of the pads that are needed (yea i know noob question lol)

Any help will greatly appreciated.

Levinboy

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You'll need pads for a ZZE122. As for good pads it depends on what you are trying to do with your car. There is no point fitting 900*C pads if you never see a track. But if you go to the track there is no point fitting 350*C pads as they just wont work. There is generally more noise associated with higher temp pads. The pads your thinking of is the Ferodo DS2500, not sure if they make them for the ZZE122 though.

The sticky in this section has a big list of pads to chose from.

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You'll need pads for a ZZE122. As for good pads it depends on what you are trying to do with your car. There is no point fitting 900*C pads if you never see a track. But if you go to the track there is no point fitting 350*C pads as they just wont work. There is generally more noise associated with higher temp pads. The pads your thinking of is the Ferodo DS2500, not sure if they make them for the ZZE122 though.

The sticky in this section has a big list of pads to chose from.

Sweet thanks dave ill give it a look over.

I am planning on tracking my car eventually so maybe something inbetween??

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With track pads you can't really go something in between to double as street use. Being a 1zz you wont get as much speed up the straights as a 2zz; so you could get away with using 500*C pads. I found Endless SSS to be good, or go the next ones up, Type R for 650*C.

Also, there is very little need to replace the rear pads unless they have worn out; they last a long time since they don't do much.

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agreed with SD, he really is super :D ,,,

it's like what he said it really depends on what you want to do with the car, i'm running EBC green stuff which is (i think) about 0-550 degree's

i'v used them on the track twice now and they hold up for about 5-6 hard laps... after about 5 hard laps i started to lose abit of faith in them, i don't know why cause they still worked fine, but found my self braking earlier...

my car is a daily driver and the newer designed ebc pads are not noise at all... and i only have a 1zz so like what Dave said you really don't get that much speed so you don't have to wipe off that much speed..

and the ebc greens are on the cheaper side of pads, i paid $135 for my front set, and $150 for rear, not sure why the rear's are more expensive...

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Ill definently have a good look at different pads, when i eventually finish with my 1ZZ i think 2ZZs will be given a real wake up call!!!

But i first need to build up the money first lol!!!!

Thanks alot guys it really helps

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My vote's on Lucas pads. They have excellent bite and still work well at low temps.

I remember reading they were rated up to 650 degrees C but after buying a set recently... it wasn't on the box or instructions at all.

I used to have Ferodo Excels which were rated up to 650 degrees C (if I recall correctly) but they didn't give the good bite that Lucas does.

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I used to have Ferodo Excels which were rated up to 650 degrees C (if I recall correctly) but they didn't give the good bite that Lucas does.

I doubt the Excels are rated to 650*C as the DS2500 are rated to 550*C+. I got that figure from the distributors as there is no clear answer anywhere on the interwebs.

(not aimed at you NuGen)When shopping for pads the main spec you need to look at is the coefficient of friction, μ (pronounced mu) as that is what provides the friction. A higher temp range is only needed when the pads are glazing.

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I used to have Ferodo Excels which were rated up to 650 degrees C (if I recall correctly) but they didn't give the good bite that Lucas does.

I doubt the Excels are rated to 650*C as the DS2500 are rated to 550*C+. I got that figure from the distributors as there is no clear answer anywhere on the interwebs.

(not aimed at you NuGen)When shopping for pads the main spec you need to look at is the coefficient of friction, μ (pronounced mu) as that is what provides the friction. A higher temp range is only needed when the pads are glazing.

Ah... yeah maybe I'm wrong about the Excel's peak temperature. But yeh I wouldn't recommend them at the end of the day either.

It's a shame manufacturers don't make this information more clear.

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Most would be in the 0.4u area. The sticky lists what specs I have been able to find/receive from the manufacturers.

For track use I would recommend 500*C or higher, same with mountain runs (but make sure they work from cold). For normal road use anything under that.

Also, don't forget about brake fluid. If you have money to burn, then stuff like Motul RBF600, RBF660, AP Racing 600 or Castrol SRF, if your made of gold, are the top notch fluids. Otherwise DOT 5.1 fluids are a lot cheaper and close enough on specifications.

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Most would be in the 0.4u area. The sticky lists what specs I have been able to find/receive from the manufacturers.

For track use I would recommend 500*C or higher, same with mountain runs (but make sure they work from cold). For normal road use anything under that.

Also, don't forget about brake fluid. If you have money to burn, then stuff like Motul RBF600, RBF660, AP Racing 600 or Castrol SRF, if your made of gold, are the top notch fluids. Otherwise DOT 5.1 fluids are a lot cheaper and close enough on specifications.

Ok that sounds good ill be on the look out for pads now, so many to choose from :D

Ill prob upgrade the pads when i get my new slotted rotors :yahoo:

And depending on the amount of money i have will dictate the fluid but nothin to cheap!!

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Brake dust from the EBCs?
ferodos are sooo dusty...

All brake pads are dusty, it is a sign that they are working. Each time you wash your car wash the wheels and you can hardly notice the dust.

Also keep in mind that slotted rotors cause more dust as the slots wear away the pads faster.

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brake dust is mostly disc material according to DBA...

The DS2500 are excellent even on cars that are only street-driven. Also a decent performing track pad.

I'm currently running DS2500 with my brembo setup on DBA5000 discs and also on my twin-piston setup on brembo slotted discs. The only downside to the DS2500 is their cost IMO.

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brake dust is mostly disc material according to DBA...

It'll be a mixture of both. If you think about it the pad and rotor wear away each time the brake is applied, the more dominate source of dust would depend on how hard/soft the rotor/pad is. But I have no data to prove DBA right or wrong other than my theory listed.

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what about Bendix General CT brake pads?

any feedback and/or information on these?

looking to apply only for street use :)

The bendix CT's are designed to limit dust but brake dust is inevitable,its incorporates a semi titanium strip (which ain't much in titanuim) to eliminate 'bedding' as normal brake pad change practice you have to do this.

this good for street as this was the 'softer' replacement for Bendix Advance.

I sold many when i has working for Coventry's & the feedback was quite neutral some complaind of squeaking (but we found it was associated with disc rotor material & optimum operaional heat retention)

Hope this helps

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what about Bendix General CT brake pads?

any feedback and/or information on these?

looking to apply only for street use :)

The bendix CT's are designed to limit dust but brake dust is inevitable,its incorporates a semi titanium strip (which ain't much in titanuim) to eliminate 'bedding' as normal brake pad change practice you have to do this.

this good for street as this was the 'softer' replacement for Bendix Advance.

I sold many when i has working for Coventry's & the feedback was quite neutral some complaind of squeaking (but we found it was associated with disc rotor material & optimum operaional heat retention)

Hope this helps

yeah i too have been told that these are low dust and also have a very good initial bite.. which is what you want for the streets..

i was told that bendix didn't make proformance or advance pads for 1zz's...

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what about Bendix General CT brake pads?

any feedback and/or information on these?

looking to apply only for street use :)

The bendix CT's are designed to limit dust but brake dust is inevitable,its incorporates a semi titanium strip (which ain't much in titanuim) to eliminate 'bedding' as normal brake pad change practice you have to do this.

this good for street as this was the 'softer' replacement for Bendix Advance.

I sold many when i has working for Coventry's & the feedback was quite neutral some complaind of squeaking (but we found it was associated with disc rotor material & optimum operaional heat retention)

Hope this helps

yeah i too have been told that these are low dust and also have a very good initial bite.. which is what you want for the streets..

i was told that bendix didn't make proformance or advance pads for 1zz's...

Thats right,bendix have never made performance pads for the JDM only the Australian..Lucas have made a well rounded pad for performance as i used these for mine,Please note they're not actually marketed as performance pads but as semi-metallic brake pads which are more suitable for track use

Pagid have made a corolla pad but the price would be lil high & high metal content means you'lle be replacing more frequently

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The bendix CT's are designed to limit dust but brake dust is inevitable,its incorporates a semi titanium strip (which ain't much in titanuim) to eliminate 'bedding' as normal brake pad change practice you have to do this.

this good for street as this was the 'softer' replacement for Bendix Advance.

I sold many when i has working for Coventry's & the feedback was quite neutral some complaind of squeaking (but we found it was associated with disc rotor material & optimum operaional heat retention)

Hope this helps

great! thanks for your response.. appreciate it heaps..

now i got to find out which Bendix brake pads are which for my Corolla.. i contacted Bendix by email about replacing my front pads and they referred me to a different set to what the online parts catalogue recommended.. the other solution was to remove the brake pads itself and compare the shape to ones found on their website..

FYI separate pads are needed for ZZ122's that have different VINs, i.e Jap and Sth African builds

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  • 11 months later...

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