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Capacitor questions

Eargunk

By Eargunk
in Audio/Video/Electronics

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Eargunk Mentor

Eargunk

Posted
Posted

I have a mrp-m850 running 2 12"type R subs and a pdx4.100 connected with 4gauge wire(grounding and postitive) where the postive goes to a T junction and then 0awg wire then to a stinger wafer fuse which is connected to a 660cca battery.

my question is:

-Does it improve sound quality?

-do i need a capacitor, i dont get dimming head lights and the battery is deep cycle 660cca with high quality 0awg cables?

-If i do get a capacitor, does it connect to both amps, or should it just be on the monoblock. (im getting a fairly expensive 20frad if i you need to hook up both amps or a 5 frad for monoblock)?

-once you charge it, does it ever have to be charged again?

-how do you "discharge" the capacitor before removing it from the system (so you dont blow your fuses and shock yourself)?

-Is it okay to have it near the woofer magnets (i have inverted subs with a tiny trunk)?
the_random_hero Grand Master

the_random_hero

Posted
Posted (edited)
I have a mrp-m850 running 2 12"type R subs and a pdx4.100 connected with 4gauge wire(grounding and postitive) where the postive goes to a T junction and then 0awg wire then to a stinger wafer fuse which is connected to a 660cca battery.

my question is:

-Does it improve sound quality?

-do i need a capacitor, i dont get dimming head lights and the battery is deep cycle 660cca with high quality 0awg cables?

-If i do get a capacitor, does it connect to both amps, or should it just be on the monoblock. (im getting a fairly expensive 20frad if i you need to hook up both amps or a 5 frad for monoblock)?

-once you charge it, does it ever have to be charged again?

-how do you "discharge" the capacitor before removing it from the system (so you dont blow your fuses and shock yourself)?

-Is it okay to have it near the woofer magnets (i have inverted subs with a tiny trunk)?

-No.

-You don't need one. If anything, upgrade your earth wires running from your battery - 2 gauge to the engine block and 0 gauge to the chassis.

-You should connect it from the main power feed

-It will keep charging as long as it's connected to power - once it's not, it will VERY slowly discharge, which brings me to your next point.

-You need to hook up a BIG power-rated resistor between the terminals (I'd go at least 20W and as many ohms as you can find in that size).

-Won't really make an iota of difference.

Your system doesn't require a cap, it will actually lower power going to your amps if anything. You've already got a good battery and decent sized power cable, if you must do anything else put a bigger alternator in.

I don't suggest anybody who doesn't know what they're doing discharge a fully charged cap, it's not fun getting a huge shock.

Edited by the_random_hero
DJKOR Grand Master

DJKOR

Posted
Posted

Pretty much what he said. This guy knows his stuff.

I don't suggest anybody who doesn't know what they're doing discharge a fully charged cap, it's not fun getting a huge shock.

Well... if you divert the shock elsewhere, it can be quite fun.

Eargunk Mentor

Eargunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sweet as, i already have the zero gauge to the chassie, but what would the 2 gauge to the engine block do? cause it will take a while to replace for me cause its covered in grease and is in a hard to reach place? If its ergent (for example, make soemthign explode) then ill put the effort in and do it asap and perspone my speakers again


DJKOR Grand Master

DJKOR

Posted
Posted
... but what would the 2 gauge to the engine block do?

The 2 gauge to the engine block is for alternator grounding. As the alternator is attached to the engine, it is therefore grounded through it. Improving the grounding from to your engine block, helps clean up the power coming from the alternator. It's not super urgent so you can do it next time you are free. It's not like anything will explode.

Eargunk Mentor

Eargunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

sweet as, might drop by favourite car audio store some time soon. Thanks

one more question, if i replace the battery to engine cable, do i have to completely disconnect the battery, or can i just replace the grounding wire to the engine whilst the grounding wire to the chassie is still attached.

Edited by Eargunk
the_random_hero Grand Master

the_random_hero

Posted
Posted

As long as the ignitions off and the key is out, you should be fine. Mine wasn't really hard to replace at all, I think it only took me a few minutes. Got some 0 gauge (yeah, I know it's a bit of overkill but anyway) from my old work, put a ring terminal on one end and put the other into a block-style negative battery terminal.

Differences? Absolutely zero that I could feel/see, but if I ever do go nuts with a sound system it can't hurt.

GtiRboy Veteran

GtiRboy

Posted
Posted

just throw the cap at someone with the terminals exposed, that'll discharge it pretty quick if they catch it right. lol...(don't actually do this!)

Eargunk Mentor

Eargunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i had a look at it today, i have to take out teh battery, cause the base had to be cut to fit the huge battery and is extremely heavy and the air filter had to be shifted abit, so in the end, i have to take out the air filter, the battery and the positive terminal (the fuse for the 0awg is too big to shift around) but jacking up the car would be a smart option i might take into account.

the_random_hero Grand Master

the_random_hero

Posted
Posted
i had a look at it today, i have to take out teh battery, cause the base had to be cut to fit the huge battery and is extremely heavy and the air filter had to be shifted abit, so in the end, i have to take out the air filter, the battery and the positive terminal (the fuse for the 0awg is too big to shift around) but jacking up the car would be a smart option i might take into account.

Sell that big battery and go to a smaller dry-cell/audio-specific battery - less weight in the front will definitely help your handling.

I'm also about to do a CAI for our car, interested?

Eargunk Mentor

Eargunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the offer but im getting rid of the car once i get off my P's and big changes that is noticable by my parents would result in a 3 hour repeating of a 15 minute lecture. The battery is slightly bigger than a yellow top by optima (a audio specific deep cycle) so it will be a slight waste, got the battery for free hehe.

the_random_hero Grand Master

the_random_hero

Posted
Posted
thanks for the offer but im getting rid of the car once i get off my P's and big changes that is noticable by my parents would result in a 3 hour repeating of a 15 minute lecture. The battery is slightly bigger than a yellow top by optima (a audio specific deep cycle) so it will be a slight waste, got the battery for free hehe.

I'll paint it black :P Tell them that it will improve your fuel economy, and reduce your cars emissions.

robie Mentor

robie

Posted
Posted
I have a mrp-m850 running 2 12"type R subs and a pdx4.100 connected with 4gauge wire(grounding and postitive) where the postive goes to a T junction and then 0awg wire then to a stinger wafer fuse which is connected to a 660cca battery.

my question is:

-Does it improve sound quality?

-do i need a capacitor, i dont get dimming head lights and the battery is deep cycle 660cca with high quality 0awg cables?

-If i do get a capacitor, does it connect to both amps, or should it just be on the monoblock. (im getting a fairly expensive 20frad if i you need to hook up both amps or a 5 frad for monoblock)?

-once you charge it, does it ever have to be charged again?

-how do you "discharge" the capacitor before removing it from the system (so you dont blow your fuses and shock yourself)?

-Is it okay to have it near the woofer magnets (i have inverted subs with a tiny trunk)?

-No.

-You don't need one. If anything, upgrade your earth wires running from your battery - 2 gauge to the engine block and 0 gauge to the chassis.

-You should connect it from the main power feed

-It will keep charging as long as it's connected to power - once it's not, it will VERY slowly discharge, which brings me to your next point.

-You need to hook up a BIG power-rated resistor between the terminals (I'd go at least 20W and as many ohms as you can find in that size).

-Won't really make an iota of difference.

Your system doesn't require a cap, it will actually lower power going to your amps if anything. You've already got a good battery and decent sized power cable, if you must do anything else put a bigger alternator in.

I don't suggest anybody who doesn't know what they're doing discharge a fully charged cap, it's not fun getting a huge shock.

not entirely true i had a capacitor and it does stop the lights from diming at night it takes some load of the alternator as for the other stuff im unsure so yeah only 1 thing that i know a capacitor does

the_random_hero Grand Master

the_random_hero

Posted
Posted
I have a mrp-m850 running 2 12"type R subs and a pdx4.100 connected with 4gauge wire(grounding and postitive) where the postive goes to a T junction and then 0awg wire then to a stinger wafer fuse which is connected to a 660cca battery.

my question is:

-Does it improve sound quality?

-do i need a capacitor, i dont get dimming head lights and the battery is deep cycle 660cca with high quality 0awg cables?

-If i do get a capacitor, does it connect to both amps, or should it just be on the monoblock. (im getting a fairly expensive 20frad if i you need to hook up both amps or a 5 frad for monoblock)?

-once you charge it, does it ever have to be charged again?

-how do you "discharge" the capacitor before removing it from the system (so you dont blow your fuses and shock yourself)?

-Is it okay to have it near the woofer magnets (i have inverted subs with a tiny trunk)?

-No.

-You don't need one. If anything, upgrade your earth wires running from your battery - 2 gauge to the engine block and 0 gauge to the chassis.

-You should connect it from the main power feed

-It will keep charging as long as it's connected to power - once it's not, it will VERY slowly discharge, which brings me to your next point.

-You need to hook up a BIG power-rated resistor between the terminals (I'd go at least 20W and as many ohms as you can find in that size).

-Won't really make an iota of difference.

Your system doesn't require a cap, it will actually lower power going to your amps if anything. You've already got a good battery and decent sized power cable, if you must do anything else put a bigger alternator in.

I don't suggest anybody who doesn't know what they're doing discharge a fully charged cap, it's not fun getting a huge shock.

not entirely true i had a capacitor and it does stop the lights from diming at night it takes some load of the alternator as for the other stuff im unsure so yeah only 1 thing that i know a capacitor does

As has been covered many, many times before it may stop the lights dimming, but it reduces power going to the amp itself due to parasitic voltage losses.

  • 1 month later...
1rocky Grand Master

1rocky

Posted
Posted

Sell that big battery and go to a smaller dry-cell/audio-specific battery - less weight in the front will definitely help your handling.

I'm also about to do a CAI for our car, interested?

Sorry for hjacking this thread but i am looking at up grading the battery and wondering what brand the drycell/audio specific battery to go for thanks

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