My new sound system

[AUR15]

Hey Guys, i currently have a Fusion Set up which consists of

-300W Amp

-400W Sub

-260W 6x9's

but i have just purchased a Option Audio Sub, Box and Amp. The Amp is 1500W mono block D class.

Now i was wondering on how to power it thats all, i have the Fusion amp under my passenger seat, i want to keep that there to power my 6x9's and i want to

put my OA amp in the boot with the Sub. just wondering cos i have 4 gauge positive cable going to the fusion amp.

1. Can i put a distro block on that 4G wire or do i have to go the next size up.

or

2. is it easier to just run another Positive cable to the new Amp?

Cheers for any help

AUR15

[Eargunk]

its better to run another cable or upgrade to 4awg wire, i dont see people using a t junction for 4awg wire, its usually 2awg to 2x4awg or 0awg to 3x4awg. but i recommend running another cable or upgrading, i heard stories of splitting the 4awg will cause more heat on cheap cables and tend to wear the cables over time.

to add, i was about to buy that exact set up, but settled for 2 type r 12" and a monoblock alpine amp, what i did to add a second amp was run 0awg wire to a singer t junction (1x0awg to 3x4awg) and used my old 4awg cable, cut it up and ran it to the 2 amps from the T junction, from there your amps should have its own grounding each, 1 per amp. the t junction is about about 20-30$ and if you do get 0awg wire which is about 20$ per metre or 50 for extremely high quality ones, you need a bigger fuse to boot, i got a stinger wafer where the fuse only costs 50$ and teh casing was like 100$ or so where as 4awg costs about 30$. so its about how much cash you got too

oh yes too add, if your planning to put more junk in your trunk like i did, i have alot of neons and leds inside my car (which bounces to the bass) having 1 0awg wire is less hassle than have 2 4awg, having 2 4awg tends to be tedious when you ad another amp or so because in the end you have to rip out all thoes cables and replace it with 0awg and you have alot of 4awg cable left over. Another thing is when your running through the fire wall, its harder to seal 2 4awg wire than 1 0awg wire. However on the upside of the 4awg cable is that its a smaller cable and is easy to hide for example running on the side of the seats, its more manuverable.

******For your case, IMO i would run a 0gauge wire near to your fusion amp, connect it to a t section, have a 4awg cable go into it, and use the rest of the cable you ripped out in your old cable set up and run it to the trunk, this way it reduces cable waste, on the floor collecting dust or the trouble in selling it.******

And enjoy the tunes...... at an appropriate level :)

Edited February 19, 2009 by Eargunk

[akuma]

i got 0guage, put a distrubitor block and running 2x 4guage power and grounding for my amps. its easier and more neater.

[the_random_hero]

Having the two amps that far can cause problems. Can you fit the other amp under the other seat, or move the other amp into the boot? I'd be running 0 gauge minimum (if your amp is actually 1500RMS), using a fused distribution block, running 2 gauge to the mono amp and 4 gauge to the speaker amp.

[MAD550]

Yes those amps are infact 1500wrms OA1502 we have them at work, I believe OA even hold the current aussie SPL record. I have the OAX801 in my wagon powering 4 12's. But yes answering your question 0 gauge minimum from battery to distro then 4 gauge to each amp and please make sure your match the grounds at the amps and the battery.

Edited February 19, 2009 by MAD550

[akuma]

you'd also want to upgrade your battery to a yellow/blue top optima battery to relieve stress to your alternator.

[AUR15]

Yes those amps are infact 1500wrms OA1502 we have them at work, I believe OA even hold the current aussie SPL record. I have the OAX801 in my wagon powering 4 12's. But yes answering your question 0 gauge minimum from battery to distro then 4 gauge to each amp and please make sure your match the grounds at the amps and the battery.

What u mean Match the grounds?

AUR15

[MAD550]

If your running 0 gauge cable from your amp you must install a 0 gauge ground from the battery to chassis and at the amps 4 gauge power use 4 gauge ground. "What goes in must come out"

[AUR15]

Oh ok so 0 gauge from the Negative to any part of the chassis? so anywhere in the engine bay?

AUR15

[the_random_hero]

Oh ok so 0 gauge from the Negative to any part of the chassis? so anywhere in the engine bay?

AUR15

Sort of... you should upgrade your earths from the negative of the battery to the chassis to 0 gauge, but what he was referring to is if you have 4 gauge power cable running to an amp from the distribution block, you should also have 4 gauge running from the negative of the amp to the chassis (keep it as short as possible).

[akuma]

you dont need to ground your 0guage to the battery, well not that i know off, i didnt do it with mine, and my system worked perfectly.

[DANZZT231]

This is the grounding method I use.

You can never say there is enough grounding. And to avoid resistance path from the chassis, run through another cable from the amp ground point straight to the battery for 'express-way' back to the negative terminal. I use bigger cable for my grounding than my power cable.

Some would say its overkill, but have a think about it.

[the_random_hero]

This is the grounding method I use.

You can never say there is enough grounding. And to avoid resistance path from the chassis, run through another cable from the amp ground point straight to the battery for 'express-way' back to the negative terminal. I use bigger cable for my grounding than my power cable.

Some would say its overkill, but have a think about it.

I wouldn't say it's overkill; I'd say it's a waste of money ;) When you think about it, what's a better conductor - a couple of metres of cable of varying thickness, or a car chassis that's been welded together...

[DANZZT231]

Although chassis is welded it isn't without resistance. An example of this is people often ask where is the good grounding point. There's a good article about this by IASCA installer.

Again, some may find this unnecessary, but it doesn't cost much to add 2 metres of cable for more grounding especially for high-power audio system you can never say there's enough grounding.

[Saitimus]

Hey there,

These are some tips, used by myself and any GOOD audio installer:

- ALL AMPLIFIER earths should go back to the same place.

- Under the rear seat is best earth position.

- Sand back the paint where you are putting your earth!!

- Earth cables should be equal to or greater than power cable size.

- NEVER earth back to the battery (-ve terminal).

- If a 240V welder can throw a spark through cable smaller than 0GA pulling that much resistance - then your car is not going to need 0GA - I have over 1500WRMS in ONE amp and I only run 4GA to an 8Farad Cap and 4GA off that to my amplifiers.

- Ensure all power wire is seperate from RCA's.

Hope this helps answer any questions!

Saitimus.

[AUR15]

Hey guys i have a quick Question. I have got my Audio done by professionals and it sounds and looks good.

BUT whenever im driving at night with mega bass :D lol the lights dim and so does everything in the car. I have been told a capacitor

is the best option here. Wats ur thoughts ???

Cheers

AUR15

[akuma]

Hey guys i have a quick Question. I have got my Audio done by professionals and it sounds and looks good.

BUT whenever im driving at night with mega bass :D lol the lights dim and so does everything in the car. I have been told a capacitor

is the best option here. Wats ur thoughts ???

Cheers

AUR15

buy a yellow top battery, better off getting one of those rather than a capcitor. after the battery, you shouldnt have anymore problems.

[the_random_hero]

Hey guys i have a quick Question. I have got my Audio done by professionals and it sounds and looks good.

BUT whenever im driving at night with mega bass :D lol the lights dim and so does everything in the car. I have been told a capacitor

is the best option here. Wats ur thoughts ???

Cheers

AUR15

Upgrade grounds. I'd put my money on the fact it will completely fix your problem :) Failing that, battery is the way to go.

[AUR15]

Ok so i was talking to my friend and he said that even if i change the battery to a Yellow top i might still need a capacitor cos the battery

wont help the alternator cos thats wat seems to be the problem he says.

But he said that if i got a Yellow top and a Capacitor that would be fine, or he said i should look at dual battery????

I think Yellow top and capacitor should do it fine, but how much is a yellow top worth

CHeers

AUR15

[AUR15]

I got a Yellow Top battery today, D51 and iv still got Ampherage problems :( although not as bad as before but still noticeable.

2 Steps i can either do:

Bigger alternator

or

Capacitor

wats all ur opinions??

Cheers

AUR15