Jump to content

Polishing/Waxing with buffer

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

New here, just wanna ask how you guys polish/wax your cars? Anyone use a Random Orbital Buffer/Sander? I did some research and found 2 models other people recommended: Bosch PEX400AE, Hitachi FSV13Y, and I also saw Makita BO5021 today in Bunnings... Anyone use any of these before? Thanks for helping! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

those sound pretty professional. i would think any would do like gmc or ozito. i do it by hand with machines if you are not good you can end up doing damage to the paint. you would find comprehensive information on other forums as polishing and waxing is the same process for cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A agree with kcorro, and yes, this topic has been covered before!

I've spend the last few days and couple of hours today researching but did not find any info regarding polishing with a buffer.. I did try the search tool but it doesn't seems to come up with something that answer my questions, so if you can find the previous topics which covered polishing with a buffer please help :)

Reason I ask this is because I just got a new Rolla and it's black, and it seems that normal hand polishing/waxing will cause lots of swirl marks :\

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always thought I'd end up with a powered buffer and all the 'professional' gear, but the chance of scorching my paint while learning how to do it properly has always kept me from shelling out for the gear.

I've used the Meguire's products almost exclusively and recommend them without hesitation. Auto Glym is on a lot of ppl's lips, but I wonder if it's just the 'cool name'. Mothers has a good following too.

My car always comes up like glass and the bonnet especially (due to residual engine heat) ends up like teflon. A gentle throw of a clean terry buffing cloth sees it glide off the other side of the car, even picking up speed, it would seem.

These results are good enough for me. If only I could polish my car without needing a fresh, dry, sweat-free t-shirt after it. It's a great 15minute upper body workout! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i'm a car detailer and do most of my polishing by hand but there are some jobs that require a buff for the extra effort. I cannot stress this enough but if you don't know how to use a buff then don't even attempt it. I can guarantee it will end up in tears with a buff burn or an edge with no paint on it. It took me a couple of years to master a buff so if you can afford the time to play with one and hope you don't do any damage GOOD LUCK!!!

Micro fibre cloths are the only way to go when polishing. drastically reduce the chance of swirls and make the jobs much easier and with a better result. I recommend Meguairs over Mothers just for the sweat factor as Mother's is harder to use for the same result. I find Auto Glym is time consuming and a little tedious and the same result can be achieved with Meguiars. But in saying that I am currently using the bowdens range of waxes/polishes and the results are better than what I can achieve with Meguiars. It's available from Autobarn whom I have been testing the products for a while and I give them a big thumbs up! Some other brissy boys also use bowdens and they will vouch for the quality finish you can achieve. They have all the mico fibre clothes and polish pads as well in their range.

As far as a brand of buff is concerned steer clear of cheapies. They're an accident waiting to happen. My buff is a Black and Decker industrial with 12 different speed settings between 1000 rpm and 3200rpm. It is also trigger sensitive which means you can gently squeeze the trigger and get the pad to spin as slow as you want. It's relatively heavy but worth the money which cost me $560 about 9 years ago. So if your serious about getting a buff then don't go with the $59 special from Supercheap- probably not want your pride and joy wants anywhere near it B)


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks SILVABULLIT, I've read a lot of your previous posts and they are very informative, much more then "somebody's" whinging and complaining <_<

Back on topic, I am a Meguiars fan too and yes I know cheap buffer or rotary buffer can burn the paint, but as far as I know Random Orbital Buffer is very "newbie proof", please correct me if I'm wrong... The Makita buffer's minimum RPM is 4000 and I am not sure if it's trigger sensitive or not, so I'm a bit concern if that speed is too fast or not... Can you please tell me what's the average/maximum speed you use to buff? Also which buff pad you use? Meguiars W8006? I can't find them anywhere but I haven't check Autobarn yet, so I'll go check them out next week.

Once again thanks for your help, you are what this forum needs more, instead of idiot who only knows how to insult people and tell people to use the search tool, which I did try and can't find anything related to my quesitons

Edited by Zero
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I don't have much experience with a buffer, but I guess the most important thing is to keep the pad flat to the surface and start with a slow RPM, don't press on it too hard etc... Looking forward to see more tips from the expert :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use search tool people!!(Always wanted to say that!!)

Most of my buffing is done under 2600rpm. Cutting is done at 1000 - 1600rpm and finishing is done at up to 2600rpm. I use the meguiars cutting pad(maroon one) with the meguiars colour boost. It's a polish/light cutter in one so it removes small surface defects and enhances colour depth and shine in one. Then it's a coat of carnauba wax;hand applied and buffed, then I run the buff over the car with a finishing pad to get a uniform finish on all flat surfaces. Depending on the car I also use the Bowden's products.


Hand cut edges and sharp angles; around badges,wipers,window rubbers etc. Use buff to do large flat surfaces till you become confident to go a little closer to tighter areas.

Try to keep the cutting/polishing pad flat as possible.

Apply a reasonable amount of hand pressure BUT don't push too hard otherwise you'll heat up the paint too much and it'll start to burn. (only way to fix that is respray :( )Let the product and the motion of the buff do the work not you pushing it.

Keep the cord of the buff over your shoulder>ABSOLUTE MUST. It can get caught around the buff head and rip it out of your hands plus you don't want to drag it up the sides of your car or over the edge of the bonnet etc.

Have a small table beside you at all times; firstly to put the buff on it when your not using it. Place your cloths/polish applicators/polish/buff pad cleaner on it also. Stops you from putting the buff on the ground and possibly picking up grit in the buff pad.Always put the buff machine down not polish pad down on the table.

Keep the buff pad clean!!! This is where most people go wrong. You can do some serious damage if grit or polish residue is stuck on the pad surface. I tend to clean it after every panel or in severe conditions every third application.

Only use as much product as is necessary. Most users apply far too much and it then sprays everywhere and makes a mess as well as wastage. Only apply enough to do about a 30cm square area at a time. Don't hurry and try to do the whole panel in one hit. The pad will get too dry and start to make a mess and make the surface patchy as there isn't enough product to do the job.

Finally allow yourself heaps of time to buff your car especially if your inexperienced. If you try to rush it you'll come unstuck and make a mess of your paintwork. Make sure the car is also clean and dry and of course not hot! Do it in the shade as well.

As far a buff pads are concerned steer clear of woollen ones as they are far too co**** and aggressive. Stick with the foam ones(meguiars are best with the velcro backing as they are easy to change) The foam dimple pads are also very good as well for both cutting and polishing. It all depends on how much you want to spend.All the buff pads/products can be found at any Autobarn store.

Hope this helps and good luck to those of you who will give it a go.

Remember to be patient and not rush it otherwise it could get ugly!!!

Cheers Silvabullit :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 20

      200 series won’t shift past 4th gear

    2. 0

      Rear proximity sensor constantly makes sound in reverse.

    3. 0

      How to remove Camry 2021 door trim

    4. 0

      Air conditioner not switching on when vehicle is started

    5. 62

      My Transmission Service

    6. 1

      LC300 ZAHARA ZX Stok tyres - Are they ok?

    7. 62

      My Transmission Service

    8. 1

      LC300 ZAHARA ZX Stok tyres - Are they ok?

    9. 0

      2000 Camry Wagon - Leaking Boot Seal

    10. 6

      Handrake adjustment in 2002 Altise?

  • Create New...