Installing Stereo Amplifiers

[Steven]

I've decided to upgrade the factory stereo in the Aurion. Not a huge system, but I'll be running amplifiers. So my question is, when keeping the stock headunit, what hi-lo converters have people been using? Also whats the best place to run the wires?

I've had a quick look, and it seems as though theirs a large grommet on the passenger side of the car's firewall that could accommodate the power wire, and run it down the sill panels to the boot - my concern lies with the factory wiring harness that runs down both sides of the car in this same location, and whether the power cable might cause unwanted interference somehow.

cheers

[Plytme]

my rolla has a wire harness down the sides also. I have a power wire runing down my left side which is powering 2xamps with no interference. I have run my amp sound cables down the centre of the car under the carpert and under the back seat to the boot. No interference there either.

[DJKOR]

For my Aurion, I've run all my cables for power (sub and rear 20A accessory socket) along the passenger side of the car. Main reason is that it keeps the length of power cable as short as can be since the battery and said grommet is on that side. As for interference, I have found no issues whatsoever. There isn't really anything running along that side that is susceptible to interference since it's basic power wiring and sensors so there is no need to worry there.

As for the line out converter I used to have (prior to getting a new head unit) I just used a cheap Jaycar unit. Cost $16.95 and for subwoofer use, did not present any audio defects (personally).

Car Stereo High to Low Level Converter

This was mounted in the boot of the car and tapped directly into the rear speakers.

[legend_of_lazz]

Could someone take a photo of the grommet please? I've had a look around yesterday and haven't been able to spot it.

[DJKOR]

You're obviously not looking hard enough :P :P

Look at the firewall behind your intake:

[legend_of_lazz]

Thanks a lot Daryl. I am completely new at working with audio in my car. How do I run my cable through there? Do I pull that out? And where would the cable come out?

[DJKOR]

You simply poke a hole in it to the side so that it's not next to the wiring loom and push the cable through there. It has to go on a slight downwards angle. If you have trouble feeding just the cable though, you can use a coat hanger to guide it though. Just take care not to damage any other wires in the process.

It will come out in this little area behind the glove box and interior distribution panel. When you look there, you can't miss it.

[legend_of_lazz]

Ok thanks for all the info. The car's in pieces, the wires are all running to the appropriate places, the last thing I need to know is: on my head unit, there is only one output for the sub. Where does this plug into as the amp has two RCA inputs? Thanks again.

[DJKOR]

... on my head unit, there is only one output for the sub. Where does this plug into as the amp has two RCA inputs? Thanks again.

Just connect it to the Left channel of the amplifier which is the white socket. This is the standard for mono connections.

[legend_of_lazz]

Ok thanks again. Everything's connected and it looks like it's ready to go. I connect my battery, turn the car on and the amp's power LED doesn't light up. I go back and check all connections and it all looks good. The fuses are all fine as well. I've had a look in the instructions and between the + and ground on the amp, there's a hole labelled REM. The instructions state "This connection turns on the amplifier and should be connected the the remote turn on lead from the Head Unit. If one is not available a switched 12V source must be used." So I've had a look at my head unit and I don't think it has a remote turn on lead, so how do I install a switch here? There is only one hole. This aside, I am all done.

[DJKOR]

If your head unit has a subwoofer output, it should have a remote trigger output. Most aftermarket units have these. It is commonly a blue wire.

Anyways, if you don't have it or don't feel like using it, you can just tap into the +12v out of the cigarette lighter. This will do the trick for triggering the amplifier.

[legend_of_lazz]

Ok, so do I tap into the positive? Or could I just tap into something in the boot or a bit closer considering my amp is in the boot?

[Steven]

Ok, so do I tap into the positive? Or could I just tap into something in the boot or a bit closer considering my amp is in the boot?

I ran my accessory wire whilst working on my installation today - I found a pink wire beneath the passenger kick panel that showed 12v only when the accessories/ignition was on.

Bit of an update, I've been running cable everywhere and doing all the fancy wood work etc to setup my amplifiers, very complicated but I'm focused on getting it right first time. Hopefully I'll have everything up and running tomorrow. Having trouble trying to find a spot to sit my fuse holder in the engine bay - not much real estate for screwing into.

Interesting observation I've had though whilst the back seats were out, is that the car technically could have a fold-down rear seat if the designers hadn't been so lazy. Furthermore theirs actually unused bolts all over the place as if such a frame was originally designed to go there. Very surprising, but also handy as those same bolts made it possible to install my amp rack without drilling any holes in the car at all.

[DJKOR]

Ok, so do I tap into the positive? Or could I just tap into something in the boot or a bit closer considering my amp is in the boot?

That's what +12v means.... the positive.

I personally haven't looked myself, but it could be possible that there is a switched +12v source in the harness on the left hand side of the boot, but TBH, I never checked for that. I doubted there would have been which is why I didn't bother in the first place, but also as well I prefer to stick with convention, even if it meant running a longer length of wire. Plus it allowed me to wire a switch in between which allows me to switch my amp off on demand (resetting it if the amp protection kicks in).

Interesting observation I've had though whilst the back seats were out, is that the car technically could have a fold-down rear seat if the designers hadn't been so lazy.

I wouldn't say they were lazy. The reason they have avoided the split fold rear seats is due to that V-brace extending between the two strut towers. For the American Gen 6 Camry, they have different configurations in which the SE (Sportivo equivalent) has the V-brace with no split-fold seats and the other models have the split-fold seats and no V-brace. Personally, I'd prefer the extra bracing.

[legend_of_lazz]

Alright, so everything's now plugged in. I turn the car on, the amp light comes on for a second and then goes dark again. My soldering work was good, all my connections are good and all fuses (inline and three in the amp) are okay. I have no idea what's wrong. It happens every time I start the car so I don't see how it could be a fuse problem. Thanks for your patience with this, completely and utterly new at this. If only everything was as easy as the head unit replacement.

[DJKOR]

What exactly have you connected your amp remote trigger up to?

[legend_of_lazz]

To the red wire going into the cigarette lighter. Sorry about the last post, I was a bit off when I explained the problem, it was actually the red amp protection light lighting up. The green power light doesn't come on at atll.

[DJKOR]

To the red wire going into the cigarette lighter. Sorry about the last post, I was a bit off when I explained the problem, it was actually the red amp protection light lighting up. The green power light doesn't come on at atll.

So you tapped it on the front cigarette lighter socket it the red wire that definitely leads to the centre connection on the cigarette lighter itself? Just making sure because one the harness going into the front cigarette lighter has blue as the +12v and then after the connector, one red wire is for the cigarette lighter +12v and the other is for the illumination (when the parkers are on). If it definitely is wired up correctly, then I would be checking the 'CIG' and 'PWR OUTLET' fuses as these can blow pretty easily.

[legend_of_lazz]

Yeah I'm pretty sure I've tapped into the right place. I'll have to have a look at the fuses tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed that's the only issue. If not I'll take everything apart, take pictures everything because I may not be explaining it correctly and it may be a simple set up issue. If we still can't get at it, I might have to book it in at WOW so they can have a look at it.

I was just taking a look over my amps manual, and everything looks to be ok. The information about the Protection LED states "When illuminated the amplifier is in protection mode due to any of the following fault conditions. Short Circuit, Thermal, Output Short, DC Offset." If there was a short or some other issue, would the Protection LED stay on or flash for a second they way it does?

Until tomorrow, thanks so much for your patience. If you ever have any trouble with Telstra, let me know and I'll sort it out.

[Steven]

I've finally got the amplifiers in, and at the moment running my front speakers. I'm using the cheap jaycar hi-lo converters.

I'm having an issue with a fairly obvious low level noise introduced now that constantly plays, best described as a constant "SHHHHH" noise. I having played around with the amp's sensitivity much yet, but I'm fairly certain this isn't normal.

[DJKOR]

If there was a short or some other issue, would the Protection LED stay on or flash for a second they way it does?

If there was a problem, it would stay on. The flash that you get is most likely caused by the amp getting a bit of a voltage drop than surge (not bad) when the car is started.

I'm having an issue with a fairly obvious low level noise introduced now that constantly plays, best described as a constant "SHHHHH" noise. I having played around with the amp's sensitivity much yet, but I'm fairly certain this isn't normal.

I get that from my stock head unit and aftermarket Auspack unit driving the speakers. If you are using the line-out converter, it is going to pick up on this unless you get a LOC with the appropriate filters like a JL Audio CleanSweep.

[legend_of_lazz]

Alright, so after talking to the guys at work, they said I should check my ground. So I gave it a bit of a sand and tightened everything up and now the amp is running. However, maximum volume with everything and no output through the sub. Progress is progress I suppose but I'd really like this thing to work.

[Steven]

I was afraid I would need a better quality LOC, although it makes perfect sense. Might have to go on the TO-DO list as my HIDs just arrived today and I'm keen to get them installed.

[legend_of_lazz]

Just a quick update. Everything's now working. I went back to WOW today and asked the guy there about what is happening. I also told him about the single output for the sub. He said I would need a Y RCA cable to add sound to both channels. I got home, plugged it in and sure enough, the sub is working very well. Thanks again for your help Daryl. You saved me a lot of frustration, time and money.

[Steven]

the amplifiers are mostly installed now. I bought them second hand at an absolute bargain so cosmetically they aren't fantastic, but they function well.

Everything is using factory mounting locations and nothing was cut etc so it'll be very easy to return to stock. Furthermore, the amps are actually mounting on a hinged board along the top, so that I can still use the ski-port in the backseat if I ever need too.

Next up is the fibreglass sub box, which I've already got the back half completed. But that's for another thread :)