Steven

So you don't lose your license. Nearly every speedo is out from factory, and shows you going faster than you are. Works better for the Manufacturer as you can't blame them if you get caught speeding, and you appear to get better economy even if it's only slight. You're aftermarket rims/tires were larger overall than the factory, so they might have made up the difference to having your speedo read 100% true.

Or a malfunctioning MAF - been working on the performance side and requirements of the MAF sensor lately and found out it is quite finicky, with the first sign of trouble being poor economy moving up to subpar power below 2000rpm once things get a bit worse.

Sounds like a dirty MAF sensor

Common rail and OR plug and play box - avoid like plague. Some can be half decent, but the reality is that a generic tune is dangerous (some are just less dangerous than others). Expensive piggy-backs or ECU remap, both are good options and typically there is no overly better option. The ECU remap can oddly enough not be as good as a good piggy-back in some cases. With the Hilux the new thing is dyno tuning with either a piggy-back or remap, depending on your tuners preference. Either option has proven to provide higher gains yet safer tunes than any plug n play module out there.

obviously every vehicle wheel swap is different so you can only work with what you've got. By the above I meant to show that even some older swaps were possible without too much drama, but at the end of the day it's all down to the individual cars

05 Hilux airbag steering wheel into a much older Hilux, before clocksprings etc. Airbag ignitor is removed, and horn contact ring from old steering wheel mounted behind new one. Fiddly as hell but does sorta show it's possible to mount a newer Toyota steering wheel onto a much older Toyota.

Booked in for some more power tweaks in early October - soonest I could get a day off work to head to the tuner In the meantime I have fitted a Fortuner front end, which have improved light driving visibility heaps without resorting to HIDs etc.

sounds like the torque converter is locking at the wrong time

no

I think the facelift cluster is much nicer - certainly makes it easier to read your speedo and revs.

searched it and found some kinda video on youtube - it's just one of those hentai things

Been doing lots of experimenting with cold air intakes and pod filters lately - basically the ONLY thing you're going to get out of that intake is a mean intake noise (and possibly lose 2-3kw)

A few slight mods lately - got rid of the factory intake (starts restricting flow at around 175hp lol) and swapped in a pod filter, just a basic cheapy as the Tuner reckons there isn't much difference between pod filters but I still might change to a K&N later on. Had the clutch replaced with a setup from NPC, which includes a larger billet flywheel and a landcruiser clutch. Clutch bites hard now and is the same setup used on the super high HP Hiluxs around (which end up breaking gearboxes before the clutch slips) Retuned on the dyno and produced an extra 5HP and roughly 30nm torque, but also running much leaner than before so hopefully this will show at the servo Also gave the engine bay a bit of a cleanup and recoloured some piping etc, I think it might even look stock now haha Utes going back in a couple of months for some basic maintenance (water pump, timing belt, modified diesel pump)

I actually had a set once and frankly didn't bother to fit them - there is bugger all difference between them and the Aurion ones (SLIGHTLY bigger rotor on the Klugers) that it wasn't worth the effort.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/36503-steves-hilux/page-1

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yes - and I know quite a bit about the performance side of them

Boost on the 05-Current models is set at 15psi, which it will JUST hit for a brief moment under full throttle acceleration around 3.5k. The factory turbo can be somewhat safely wound up to around 21psi when tuned without risking any damage to the turbocharger.

I am surprised you were as successful as you were. In contrast to other Toyota models, the Aurion is a bit special in that it also uses a servo-actuator for mode setting in both the manual and climate control models - which is why you were able to get it working as well as you did. However in the Presara/ZR6 models, the temperature is also adjusted via an electric servo whereas the knob cable operates the temperature in the base models. I'm not sure whether the heater cores are the same with the only difference between the presence or not of the electric servo - this is normally the case in many newer Toyota models that offer both manual air con and climate control. The climate control models also have both interior and exterior temperature sensors as well. You've most likely gotten the most out of a conversion most people could get without considerably more wiring/parts

Very fun, but unfortunately not too fast :( The exedy H/Duty clutch just can't cope with the torque, meaning from 3rd gear onwards any serious throttle application just causes the clutch to lose it entirely. Still very quick off the mark, but 1st/2nd gear in a Hilux doesn't last long, even when stock. Need to invest in a special NPC made clutch when funds allow

So I decided to get a bit more serious in chasing some more power, which resulted in a stage 2 Grunter Extreme turbo from Gturbos being bolted on, high flow injectors from Baileys Diesel (new product) and a front mount intercooler (fabricated myself, so no weld porn lol). The result? 212.8hp at the wheels! Not as much as I was hoping for, but despite having an Exedy H/duty the clutch started slipping so will need to be upgraded in future. Tuner also found the factory airbox and/or safari snorkel were causing a restriction somehow, as popping the airbox instantly gave another 15hp. Will have to investigate. It's now incredibly fun to drive, but I haven't really been able to test it due to the heavy rain that set in today :( . Any kind of throttle just sets the ***** end flying all over the place.

Well damn it's been about 2.5 years since I've post anything up in here, figured I'd resurrect this thread. Ute has gone through a whole heap of changes since my last update. Starting with the interior, I've swapped the steering wheel yet again for an Aurion wheel, woodgrain, as I wanted steering wheel controls and to make the interior just that little bit more modern. I've also swapped in an SR5 dash cluster from a 2014 Hilux, along with the SR5 trip computer in the dash. Spent a bit of time pouring over the wiring diagrams to figure them out but in the end everythings running perfectly. There are also some other small changes to the interior but nothing really worth going into. For the exterior things have changes considerably. For starters I've finally got the tray properly set up how I want it for work, with a custom rack up top for carrying cladding, a built in 9cfm compressor setup that has the compressor itself top side whilst the space-consuming tanks live under the tray, with the power/air connections sitting on a panel just behind the drivers door. The bullbar has been modified (read: cleaned up) and re-powdercoated, I've buggered off the spotlights and swapped to some LED light bars, a few aerials (1x UHF, 1x FM radio), a monster rides bonnet scoop (BLING) and again some small touchups all over. Mechanically is where a fair bit of dough has been spent. The diff center has been swapped for a Prado center as a means to regear the drivetrain for the larger diameter tyres (still haven't gotten around to swapping the front diff, I have it but just been slack). Heavy duty Exedy clutch, Baileys fuel injectors, Provent air/oil separator, Fuel Manager pre-filter, and a brake upgrade consisting of new rotors, HPX brake pads, braided brake lines front/rear, and a Dual-Diaphragm brake booster developed right here in Queensland for the Hilux. To put it simply, the Hilux stops when I need it to stop. On the performance side of things, I've added a larger dump pipe and home-made welded exhaust (ie prebought sections that I welded together) that dumps just behind the cab. Measures about 2.75" internally and still runs a muffler and cat (both hi-flow). The biggest change though is I've had Matty from Just Autos on the Sunshine Coast wire in a HKS F-Con ID ecu and dyno tune it, the resulting gains are in the vicinity of 50% power and torque! Has completely transformed the ute, but of course the power bug has bitten again so I'm looking out for a turbo upgrade in the near/mid future. For this it would probably be the GTurbo Grunter stage 2 - not cheap but has been proven to add about another 30% power/torque but more importantly even lower in the rev range where it's badly needed.

an example would be ****** weather, torches of mass destruction, myer gift cards and Chinese prostitutes least that's what I remember

Nice of you to drop by, park 10 meters away with the engine running and basically stare at us for 20 minutes before driving off without saying boo. Just like you've done previously...

I COULD help, but I've pledged to only help people who come onto these forums to actually contribute, not just ask a question with their first post and then disappear forever. Real shame too, because that kinda problem can be really difficult/expensive to work out if you don't know much about it