Steven

There's a recall for the steering wheel squib, which causes the problems you are having. Go see Toyota and they'll replace it for free.

There is more information I could post here, even in regards to item #3 which I forgot to mention - however as old mate Jeff has only 1 post to his name, hasn't bothered to even reply to my previous input, nor logged in since the 29th of March then I'm not going to even bother. In fact, I'm getting jack of people joining just to ask a question then bugger off without so much as a thanks.

Advice removed - pay a mechanic in future. Hope you acted on the info whilst you had the chance.

Problem might lie with the pressure relief valve on the common rail, but that code is basically thrown whenever the desired fuel pressure fails to be achieved in the common rail. You might have a stuffed fuel pump. The suction control valve on the pump might also be jammed (bolts into the pump) which will prevent the pump from making the required pressure. As long as all your lines/pipes have been attached correctly then these few things are likely where you problem lies.

Wow... what part of mechanical pump did you not understand? The pump will work REGARDLESS of the immobiliser , as long as the engine cranks so will the pump! The immobiliser only stops the injectors from firing! Just stick with looking at the little light for immobiliser issues. Just remember, Light On = immobiliser On! See, it's simple!

How did you check the fuel pressure? The Hilux D4D doesn't have an electric pump it's all mechanical - you need to prime the system using the pump on the fuel filter assembly. If the engine is completely dry including the return lines, even once you prime the system it can take quite a bit of cranking in order to get it to start. Further check the fault doesn't lie in the immobiliser. When the key is turned to IGN or further the security light (normally blinking when car is off/locked) in the panel to the lower right of the steering wheel should be off completely. If it's on or blinking then that is where you problem lies.

check out the newhilux.net forums - plenty of info there

Turbo diesels don't have a throttle body (the one in the intake track is actually for use by the EGR system and engine shutdown. Has no affect on acceleration as in traditional petrol engines). Being 2006, you could either have a heavily clogged intake (caused by EGR system, very common issue for sludge to build up and chock the intake air path) or possibly a buggered MAP sensor or map sensor filter. These can cause issues without throwing an error code. Start by removing your intake just past the butterfly valve to where the EGR actuator sits and have a look at how much sludge is in there. If it's pretty full you should probably remove your entire intake intake including the lower manifold to properly clean it out. If it looks clean, give your MAP sensor filter (little canister about 30mm high with 2 vacuum hoses, clipped on to the intercooler on the passenger side) a clean out with some petrol and compressed air. Put it back the way you took it off. 2 things to get you started.

Really not sure mate, I believe the chassis might be the same but if you want to be sure why not just ask Toyota themselves?

The chip will help / by running 265/75s youve lost off the line torque. Exhaust only after chip

I'm in

Could you post their reply?

Vibrations due to stiff suspension is a "it's too hard to really figure out" diagnosis and I wouldn't be accepting that as an answer. Vibrations can be very difficult to trace and it sounds like the dealer is taking the lazy way out rather than spend hours diagnosing the real problem. Write to head office about your dramas and disappointment with that dealership's attitude - The car is practically brand new and hence should drive like a new vehicle.

We'll stick around for you

We don't have that engine in the Australian Hilux. Check all your fuel filters but as far as local advice that's as specific as I can be

not familiar with those, but generally auto-lockers will outperform limited slip diffs in all cases. Limited slip diffs are just easier to live with as they're smoother in their operation

Fakes can be hit and miss. With some the structural integrity can be suspect, where in others they can actually be made either slightly out of round or not uniformly solid - in both cases resulting in balance issues that might not be able to be sorted using traditional wheel balancing weights. However with the sheer number of wheel makers out there it is becoming very difficult to determine which brand is a knockoff and which is a legitimate quality supplier - price doesn't necessarily mean quality either.

Yeah, the difference here is that your friend's is either an SR or an SR5. It could be almost the same as yours or have a few extras depending. Saying it's a dual cab 2007 4WD doesn't mean anything without knowing the specific model.

So are you looking for the difference between SR and SR5?! If you want help then be specific

In the 2007 Hilux range there are only Workmates, SRs and SR5s. The D4D engines could be found in all of them. You didn't mention whether the above "hilux 3.0 D4D" is a workmate, SR etc. Also whether it was or not it was 4x4, single/xtra cab/dual cab etc. Without more info comparison can't be made.

Probably shouldn't break under normal driving conditions, but can you prove that you didn't abuse the car or race it etc within the last 3 years? Not calling you a liar, but that's exactly what Ultra Racing would claim you did and it's basically your word against theirs. Also kinda strange you say you don't drive it hard, as the body roll wouldn't even be a consideration even from stock until you're throwing into corners at a decent speed

Indeed, for a diesel either HKS or Unichip are the best and safest options. Alot of chips out there might promise even better gains etc, but they accomplish it in ways which can be very detrimental to the lifespan of the engine. Chipit was quite popular until recently (due to poor customer service more than anything) but even they can't compare to unichip or HKS. They have recently released a new product called the Dominator ecu, but there are reports errors, fault codes and sometimes even non-delivery from chipit themselves for this product. For this reason they've been removed as sponsors from many other forums so keep this in mind when looking around, With either HKS or unichip the best option is for a custom dyno tune, for best economy and power/torque output.

Need to know if diesel or petrol

Yep, if it were a filter for an older style diesel then it wouldn't have the flow rate for a common rail. Makes sense now

Confused as hell - so you're not running a filter now? Or Ryco told you to remove THEIR filter? You're engine bay filter in the prados is a filter with a water detection sensor but it won't separate it out!