Steven

most likely yes

More info needed - 05 was a changeover year so which is yours? Also more information needed about this "leak", the rear axle could potentially leak in a few places but depending upon where affects how you'd go about fixing it.

Bit of a long standing myth there - servicing a diesel is roughly the same cost in parts as the petrol equivalent. Oil, Oil Filter, Air filter (if needed) are all basically the same cost as a petrol if you wander down to your local supercheap and price the parts up. The only additional thing worth looking at is the fuel filter in the engine bay, which should be done every 2nd service. Cost about $20. You'd get 10k between services easily enough and if you cared about your petrol engine living a full life you'd service it at 10k too (rather than 15k). The fuel economy argument doesn't mean alot when your talking around town or on the highway - they come out very similar due to the petrol getting great economy on the freeway whilst the diesel gets it around town. The benefit here with the petrol is that they are alot quicker and more traffic friendly. Of road or loaded up the economy is vastly different. Carrying an extra ton, or doing semi-serious off roading the petrol will absolutely drink the fuel like there's no tomorrow. The economy penalty in the diesel though is much more reserved, with even my 05 model only getting as high as 12L per 100km when constantly towing 1+ ton loads or running up and down the beach. The aftermarket is also developing some serious gear lately to really get the diesel moving, with aftermarket turbos and ECUs that go far beyond the whole "fuel pressure" chips of yesterday. Plus the price of injectors has dropped from being around a 4k repair to only about 1.3k IF you should ever need it. My 05 model has 190,000 on the clock, running the factory injectors that when tested about 3 months ago all came up within spec. Horses for courses, ask yourself what you will be using the vehicle for. If mostly around town, petrol is fine. If carrying loads or doing a bit of offroading you'd be either very rich, or very stupid, not to consider the diesel.

if it's a diesel then get the injectors check through toyota asap. If they're faulty then you have the car yards warranty to claim on but it doesn't last for long (compulsory warranty)

Yep

Possible reasons aside from blocked intake or faulty injectors: Dirty Suction Control Valve (clean or replace) Dirty MAP sensor (near intercooler - remove, clean out with turps, dry and replace the same way it came off) Clogged CAT Converter, Air Filter and/or fuel filter

You can't just change the calipers, you need to change both the calipers AND the rotors

Frankly mate, you need to accept that Toyota isn't to blame here. You're driving SLIGHTLY below the speed limit in the left hand lane and that truck driver was just being a tool. Long story short Toyota has done the correct thing by setting your speedo slightly slower (as all car makers do now). The fact is all modern tyres, even if they show the same tyre code, are not made exactly the same and some have a larger outside diameter than others. By setting your speedo lower, they're ensuring you don't inadvertently speed if you replace your tyres after they wear out and end up going slightly faster because of it. You're whinging about nothing that has any credit here, and frankly by making the above the attitude you're bringing to this forum as it is don't expect a warm welcome - we tend to be quite blunt here and if you don't like it no one is forcing you to stay. People join this forum to contribute (ideally), and those that join just to whinge about nothing as treated exactly as above. I don't know (or care) how old you are, but GROW UP

As soon as I can untie these ropes!

If engine light is on, please read the code and post it here.

Definitely looks like the car in front - unless NSW is substantially different to QLD they are designed to take a photo from the rear of the vehicle as there is less interference from headlights, and because motorcycles are only required to have rear number plates.

True, but the idea was to educate in case that misconception was affecting your own opinion (hate for you to miss out if it was just that lol) I have a chip, does boost and pressure, on a switch. Believe it or not but the chip just on a mid-level tune makes the Lux a bucketload faster - it won't beat any v6 family taxi but for those times you need to merge out into heavy traffic or overtake on the freeway it makes a huge difference. Spot on with EGTs being lower with a better exhaust, however if not running a chip then EGTs should never be a problem. The D4D hilux engine is very relaxed in its stock tune.

Common misconception (as seen here) is that aftermarket chips that increase fuel rail pressure somehow put more pressure on the pump etc. The pump is mechanical and always produces the same amount of pressure overall. There is a control valve in the common rail itself that drops the pressure down before it sends it to the injectors. Pretty much the only part that will be exposed to (and is actually vulnerable to) the increased pressure after the rail are the injectors. Newer model injectors (ie from 08 onwards especially from 10 onwards) seem to deal with these pressures far better than the earlier models. A chip that ups the boost as well as the fuel pressure is the bare minimum that you want though, as the increased boost helps keeps EGT low (high EGT = possible dead engine from overheating) Some chips though increase fuel injector duration time rather than using increased pressure to inject more fuel - these are an even better chip again as they're very safe, however they don't have as much power/torque potential as the pressure type chips. Though take any reported fuel savings with these chips with a grain of salt - there are only a very specific set of circumstances in which you will get better fuel economy, 99% of the time expect about an extra 1-2L per 100km in usage. To get the best of both worlds and keep things very safe, find a chip that meets the above and can be turned on or off with a switch on the dash. There is no point running the engine with a chip all the time, if you just turn it on when you actually need it you will find the chip won't negatively affect your economy or engine/injector life expectancy. By the way as you have a 2012 model, DO NOT GET A CHIP!!!! At least until you're out of warranty. If you suffer an engine failure for any reason, Toyota will blame the chip and void your warranty (has happened, even non-modded engines have failed randomly) Even if you remove the chip prior to making a claim, Toyota have now figured out a few tricks to proving you have a chip even if you remove the system and reset the ECU. They've gotten very trick to deal with

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/******-on-board-road-Sign-/250985424502?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6fe5a676&_uhb=1 Much cheaper alternative and accomplishes the same thing!

I agree, from the very beginning of that video you can see the rear vehicle in the left hand lane had brake lights on the entire time, as obviously they observed the accident and had been able to stop safely. You can't blame other driver's because you didn't want to take precautions when obviously something had occurred up ahead. A safe driver drives to the road conditions and circumstances. Furthermore by the time I see your headlights dip that other vehicle had already been in your lane for a considerable time, they didn't cut you off at the last second you just didn't react until it was far too late. Every other driver there had been paying attention and avoided the incident Don't twist the details to paint yourself in a positive light

Rob check out the Newhilux.net forums, there is far more information and ideas there than you could ever find on here.

okie dokie

look for a grizzly autolocker - don't waste your time with a genuine LSD even brand new they're pretty pathetic

I'd better be in this week, lest I suffer withdrawal symptoms.

Unfortunately being a 2005 model yours isn't OBDII compatible and only a select few scantools are able to read error codes. A common problem with the D4D engines is that the intake can get clogged with carbon deposits from the EGR system. It's normal for it to happen but a pain anyways. Sometimes they clog up so badly the entire intake is almost closed off in some parts. Only way to fix is to remove it and clean it out.

There's another piece inside the original casing close to where the keyblade is that turns off the immobiliser. It's only very small and in some key fobs it's glued in there but can be prised out without too much effort and put inside your new casing. The other electronic parts are only for the keyless entry stuff.

That is ridiculous. Whilst it is different here in Qld, a brief search seems to show you are right beastmode - the auto restriction only applies to P1 if that's what you did your driving test in. Talk about a whole load of rubbish, driving a manual is FAR more involved than an auto especially when starting out. Can you imagine a first time manual driver, on an open license, pulling out into traffic and stalling it? There would be a whole load of dangerous situations that could easily happen, especially if they're taught how to drive one via youtube! Guess it just proves how seriously ****** NSW driver license system is.

If you have a license but have never driven a manual then you have an automatic license, in which case you can't legally drive a manual car anyway, so why consider a manual anything?

Get your license first, so you can turn that "theory" into P plater confidence! BTW youtube hours don't generally count, you need ACTUAL experience.

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