Hey guys, a question about purchasing a 2010 Aurion Grille from R style!
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MWR Oil Pump
MWR are a reasonably respected name in the aftermarket 2ZZ business, they're not the cheapest (especially with shipping) but the products are usually solid. In this case though it is only the oil pump gear itself which is upgraded (as that was the issue with the stock ones), the housing is new/refurbed OEM Toyota/Aisin. FYI 4340 is the grade used, it's a high-tensile chrome-moly steel. I believe the stock ones are sintered (ie powdered steel pressed in to shape at high pressure/temperature), which contributes to their propensity to shattering (although I think it is much rarer than people are lead to believe, and usually as a result of over-revving via mis-shifting) -
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Engine starts but won’t rev, only idles. 2002 Hilux 4d4
I left my fridge on in car for five days and it completely ran the battery flat. I have replaced with new battery and engine starts but only idols cannot be revved at all. Any ideas? -
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Faulty speedo
Hey everyone after advice .have a 99 hilux and my speedo will read fine one moment and then will read excessively high as in off the clock at about 60 and says I'm doing 90 at at 30 any idea's on what to check would be massively appreciated. -
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MWR Oil Pump
My new Monkeywrench Racing Oil pump came in the mail last week ago, which had been shipped from RideRound.nl in the Netherlands. Does anyone know anything about Monkeywrench Racing? Do you all think I made a good choice buying this aftermarket oil pump? I ordered it to to upgrade from the stock OEM one which is vulnerable to disintegration. The aftermarket one is meant to be bulletproof because it is made from some type of so-called '4340 steel'. -
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Loss of power
Hi Darryl, I’ve just read your post about loss of power in your UZJ200R and multiple fuel pump replacements. I have the same issue in my 4.7L and was wondering if you were able to get the issue resolved? My loss of power occurs after approximately 5 hours of towing a load (caravan) and results in loss of power and eventual engine backfiring. The problem resolves it self after a few hours of cool down time. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel & air filters, plugs, ignition coils and mass airflow sensor but still have the issue. My auto electrician suggests that I now replace the fuel pump control computer (part no. 89570-60160) that sits on top of the right chassis rail just forward of the right rear wheel. He thinks this might be getting hot which could then affect the integrity of the signals being sent to the fuel pump. I look forward to your reply. -
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Vibration through body (not steering wheel) under acceleration
Hi, This is an old post, but this has happened to me as well. 2009 Kruger. Happens especially when going up hit, accelerating clears it. What did you find? -
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Toyota echo/yaris control arms
If anyone could please enlighten me with this piece of knowledge ? Are all the control arms the same in all echo/yaris (99-05) models except the only difference is the front mount hole of either 12mm or 14mm. 12mm being for standard echo/yaris and 14mm being for the t sport models many thanks -
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Newbie
Hey everyone look forward to seeing all ideas and advice. From nz so please don't hate me to much lol -
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Cheap modifications for 2006 Corolla sedan
Hey all! Am new to the world of Corollas (and Toyotas). Acquired a 2006 Toyota Corolla Ascent Sport sedan in February 24. Manual, done approx 178000 klms now - and stock. Car is in fairly good condition. And really surprised at how well it does drive for an 18 year old car. Anyway, looking at getting some initial modifications done just to get back into working on cars, and also making the car more fun to drive. What are some things that you recommend? Pod Filter? Exhaust? Suspension? Any particular brand names? I did a quick search on ebay, and found Max Speeding Rods branded suspension - but couldnt find much else. Thanks all 🙂 -
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1gr tone wheel...
G'day all, I had a head gasket replaced on my 1grfe 5 months ago. Since then I've been having power issues and 3 weeks ago it completely cut out. After a bit of mucking around, I was able to find a mechanic who told me the tone wheel had slipped back on the crankshaft, which has thrown the sensor... it's also bent the tone wheel and filled the crak angle sensor with metal shavings. The ute has just ticked over 300k, I'm wondering if I give up on it and buy a 1kd, or look into chasing up the idiots who put it back together after the head gasket.(they did a cv boot at the same time and held it in place with fencing wire and zip ties. Not the brightest bunch) Anything thoughts or sympathy appreciated.
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