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Posted

Hey guys, Id like to put some negative camber on my rears to stop scrubbing when Im out on the track (guards are rolled but still scrubbing with big body roll).

But I read somewhere that the ZZE doesnt allow any aftermarket camber arms or anything. What are my options? Is there any adjustment in the stock setup?

Also if you guys have any info regarding the fronts too (can see abit if wear on the sidewalls from the tyre rolling)!

Thanks,

Clifton


Posted

Hey guys, Id like to put some negative camber on my rears to stop scrubbing when Im out on the track (guards are rolled but still scrubbing with big body roll).

But I read somewhere that the ZZE doesnt allow any aftermarket camber arms or anything. What are my options? Is there any adjustment in the stock setup?

Also if you guys have any info regarding the fronts too (can see abit if wear on the sidewalls from the tyre rolling)!

Thanks,

Clifton

Well since the rears is torsion beam there's not much you can do...

The guys in the US made some hub shims to adjust the camber though. Pretty fiddly.

For the fronts you can get camber bolts.

Posted

you can buy bolt in spacers on yahoo japan, i think they were about 190 australian dollars plus postage

Posted

Well since the rears is torsion beam there's not much you can do...

The guys in the US made some hub shims to adjust the camber though. Pretty fiddly.

For the fronts you can get camber bolts.

Torsion beams make me sad :(


Posted

you can buy bolt in spacers on yahoo japan, i think they were about 190 australian dollars plus postage

What do these spacers do?

Posted

i'd run camber plates rather than camber pins/bolts. u dont want them to slip out during a hard session on the track. plus the plates give alot more camber than bolts/pins

i've never seen them (bolts/pins) clip out during circuit/track but i'm quoting directly from a mate who owns a pedders suspension centre in melbourne.

with ur body roll just go coils... BC coil overs come with camber plates too. so u win win :)

Posted (edited)

i'd run camber plates rather than camber pins/bolts. u dont want them to slip out during a hard session on the track. plus the plates give alot more camber than bolts/pins

i've never seen them (bolts/pins) clip out during circuit/track but i'm quoting directly from a mate who owns a pedders suspension centre in melbourne.

with ur body roll just go coils... BC coil overs come with camber plates too. so u win win :)

you cant adjust rear camber with coilovers on the zze122/3 only the front,even if they have adjustable plates on the top on the rear it wont adjust anything due to how they mount.

yahoo camber plates through import monster is the easier way to get them link:-

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d113690055&thumb=http://f0.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img167.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/3/2/4/0/cool_style_8-thumb-117031307466335.jpg&title=3%20NZE121G

nze121g is just a japanese wagon,its the same bolt up as your zze122/123(but be aware that nze121 without the g on the end is different)

it also outsets your wheel slightly aswell giving it a better overall track

Edited by daniboy
Posted

i'd run camber plates rather than camber pins/bolts. u dont want them to slip out during a hard session on the track. plus the plates give alot more camber than bolts/pins

i've never seen them (bolts/pins) clip out during circuit/track but i'm quoting directly from a mate who owns a pedders suspension centre in melbourne.

with ur body roll just go coils... BC coil overs come with camber plates too. so u win win :)

you cant adjust rear camber with coilovers on the zze122/3 only the front,even if they have adjustable plates on the top on the rear it wont adjust anything due to how they mount.

yahoo camber plates through import monster is the easier way to get them link:-

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d113690055&thumb=http://f0.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img167.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/3/2/4/0/cool_style_8-thumb-117031307466335.jpg&title=3%20NZE121G

nze121g is just a japanese wagon,its the same bolt up as your zze122/123(but be aware that nze121 without the g on the end is different)

it also outsets your wheel slightly aswell giving it a better overall track

Looks pretty interesting, do you have any experience with these yourself?

Posted

I've got camber bolts in my car; but it's an AE92 with IRS (independent rear suspension) so camber bolts all 'round. Cheap and effective - have dialed in -2.5 degree all 'round before. Anything over 3 degrees for road use is stupid unless your one of the Fitment people who are Form > Function

Posted

I've got camber bolts in my car; but it's an AE92 with IRS (independent rear suspension) so camber bolts all 'round. Cheap and effective - have dialed in -2.5 degree all 'round before. Anything over 3 degrees for road use is stupid unless your one of the Fitment people who are Form > Function

i thought u always had plates? then again i never asked and i never looked properly :P

Posted

Never had plates, though they would def save me alot of money as each time I change the camber it needs a wheel alignment.

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Hey dani,

Would you be able to link some info on the rear camber plates again? Think its time for new rims!

Posted (edited)

you should be looking for anti roll bar or hardening springs..rather than camber option, since you cannot do anything at the rear

Edited by ben yip
Posted

I'd recommend not using the allen head bolts in that picture. Swap them out for proper hex heads and grade 8.8+ to be sure.

I never use allen heads with any decent torque on them.

Posted

soo yeh these bolt in camber spacers are crazy stupid camber, ill throw the car on the wheel aligner at work next week and see exactly what it is, definetely not streetable camber anyway haha not unless you like driving around with like 20psi in your tyres all day just to get the rubber on the road

dave the bolts pictured are 12. something graded and have a special coating also.

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