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Huey's "Illest" Facelift ZRE


itsmehuey

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yep. 300 all up for prepping, priming and painting.

I havent had much experience with either. I use a different panel beater closer to my place.

But generally people from the south go to dt, and those in the west go to primal.

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Hi,

I havent deal with DT but i heard lots of ppls recommends them!

Last time my car went to the panel beater was three years ago and cost $1200 to resprayed the rear bumper!

If i know DT back them, i'll go to them.

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lol really? why's that? don't do such a good job or overcharge you, if you don't know them/know someone who knows them?

bit of A and bit of B

I know them, in fact I went to the owners' wedding. Have had work done there and no issues for me.

Hence why they did a good job bro haha.

Not only that, the couple of handfuls of people that have had good experience from them in the past, now will never go back to them ever. I do give them this though, at one stage they were highly reputable across the scene. Now it seems like everyone i talked to who has had experience with them were not happy.

Bit of a negative side to them but just some food for thought. I would be very cautious in sending anything to them now days.

that being said, they are knowledgeable on what they are doing with the experience to back it up. I guess everyone has them lazy cbf days i guess...

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took my bar to Moonee Ponds Smash Repairs (recommended by mr. shin0bi) and they said they'd do it for $200! The guy there was more than happy to help. Told me the quotes I was getting were highway robbery just to paint the bar lol. should be done by mid next week.

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after much anticipation and delay... let the fun begin :) props to le.vinh.zr for sourcing the emblem for me for a reasonable price! (toyota parts quoted me $54 for just the rear emblem -_-' )

28917210150265128043027.jpg

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starting with a fresh badge always better than using one that's already on the car - would need to get some adhesive of some sort (3M double sided tape or something) and plus, when debadging running the risk of melting the badge with heat gun.. and if that were to happen.. GG!

Also, Leila's ***** would have 2 small holes in it for a couple days whilst I sand, prime and paint it, if I were to use the one from my car lol

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starting with a fresh badge always better than using one that's already on the car - would need to get some adhesive of some sort (3M double sided tape or something) and plus, when debadging running the risk of melting the badge with heat gun.. and if that were to happen.. GG!

Also, Leila's ***** would have 2 small holes in it for a couple days whilst I sand, prime and paint it, if I were to use the one from my car lol

seems like a legit reason :P

guess we all got different methods into debadging cars depending on the tools available :P

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try to refund your enamel primer for a plastic primer. It'd work much better. I dont think acrylic can be painted over enamel, wierd stuff happens when you start mixing paints.

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i'll give it a try with what i got but if it doesn't work out i'll do what you suggested pezzie :)

btw how much should i sand down the badge? it's taking forever! should i be removing ALL of the chrome/silver? i can start seeing a little bit of the copper colour on the edges of the badge but there's still a lot of the silver (not the chrome finish) on the badge.

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i'll give it a try with what i got but if it doesn't work out i'll do what you suggested pezzie :)

btw how much should i sand down the badge? it's taking forever! should i be removing ALL of the chrome/silver? i can start seeing a little bit of the copper colour on the edges of the badge but there's still a lot of the silver (not the chrome finish) on the badge.

I'd say once you have taken the chrome off and it's back to gray/silver. Stop there. No need to continue any further. If you keep going it's just unneccesary! Give it a cost of enamel tonight and spray tomorrow to see what happens. Save the pain for tomorrow

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well its a hit and a miss for some people. Some people say its fine if you let the primer fully cure. This means they wait around 2-7 days for the paint to dry. If you're unlucky then your base coat will crack when it is sprayed on.

If you find that it takes too long, then go down a grade of sandpaper, im guessing you're using 480 grit? If so use 240. Some say you just need to scuff the paint, some choose to remove it all, its up to you.

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i was actually usingj 240.. now i'm down to 400 to smooth it out and then gonna hit up the 800 grit for even smoother finish.. then i'm gonna spray the first coat of primer tonight and let it settle overnight, then will spray another coat tomorrow morning and let that settle as well for the day, and will spray my first (of 4) coats of matte black paint tomorrow evening.. after that i'll let that settle for 2 hours, spray another, let that settle for another 2 hours then spray one final coat and let that settle overnight for at least 8 hours.

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if you're not in a hurry then i would leave the primer to cure for a few days just to be safe. Its a little more work to paint your badge, have it go bad when you paint the base then start all over again by sanding it all off.

If you have something you dont need, go test it by spraying some primer then acrylic over it. Or just wait and go exchange the spray can tomorrow?

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