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Un-usual burning smell??


Rohnan90

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Hi all,

I've recently been tweeking the timing at the distributor to get the best performance from my 5s-fe. Ever since i have been smelling a strange burning smell when i put my foot to the floor. I have checked all the obvious things, oil leaks, coolant leaks and brake fluid leaks, but everything seems fine. I also switched to BP ultimate 98 octane fuel, but it doesn't seem to smell like fuel.

Anyone have any ideas??

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I do but it isnt that. good response tho lol didnt actually think of that. the smell is similar to burning oil but it isnt,,, if that makes any sense lol

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Could be a small oild leak or oil that is baken onto the engine somehwere and when it gets hot it burns the oil. Redlining might make it breath oil a bit. I am not sure though

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Hey there,

If i was too take a stab in the dark....

-did you 'pin out' the ECU before 'tweaking' the dizzy?

-possibly check the PCV valve is working correctly..?

-... Valve stem seals... ... .. is it blowing any smoke???

- what brand/type oil and how long ago was it changed?? how many K's{on engine} ETC? AS IM incline to think its got to do with "BLOW BY"

- {Have NO idea about this++ FULL GUESS} did you check out in an owners manual to actualls see if you can do that on the 5SFE as the 2nd cam is gear driven.... IT MIGHT NOT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE AT ALL... .. .. ++FULL GUESS THAT ONE...

Peace

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Hey,

na i didnt pin out the ecu and to be honest i have never done it before and un-sure of how to. it doesnt blow smoke so i think we can rule out stem seals.

Im a little confused myself as i have tried most of the obvious things.

is it possible a rich or lean fuel mixture may cause odd smelling exhaust fumes?

Im taking stabs in the dark myself. I just get a little worried when strange burning smells arise as i have had similar problems before with previous cars and literally a week later a head gasket blows, head cracks and i have water in the oil. but this smell seems different. :/

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Hey there,

--- I'd say defiantly the OIL----

{not ruling anything else out though.}.. ... change ur oil man...!!!

{I BELIEVE in PENRITE...... .. 230 odd.. I'd be at at least 20-50...}

{can explain oil more if you so choose...}

-'Pin out's pretty easy all it involves {normally} is a paper clip in the 'diag' port.... {make sure it's the right 'pin's', I cannot tell you e, as I Don't 'know' 5SFE... but i do know 'engines'}

and unless 'work' has been carried out on the engine it 'not likely' that it'd be "rich or lean" as thats what the computer controls....

- which is 1 o the reason to 'pin-out' the ecu... that way the 'computer' doesn't "fight" you "variation" ....

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This might be a bit out there but if your tweeking your timing at the distributor and u only seem to smell the burning smell under heavy load check the state of your points.... if they have a white residue on them or if they have an anodized look to them I'd say you've "tweeked" your timing a little too far and your causing the points in your dizzy to run hot... not common but not unheard of. I've literally seen points melt from this before.

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Wow thanks guys thats been really helpful. turns out i have a slow oil leak at the rear of the engine and was sitting on a part of the gearbox and was burning it off as the engine got hotter. the mechanic believed i smelt it more when i was revving it because i was moving faster and the air was forcing the smell through the firewall. I didnt notice the oil leak as it was small and in an area i couldnt see very easily. thanks to all for the advice :)

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hey there..

As i stated... I dont know the 5SFE engine very well...

Loki... should be able too tell you...???

this is VERY similar... MIGHT HELP

{and Mick, I didnt think they had points... LOL... although the thought about heating up the individual 'lugs' that head out too the spark plug wires/cables....}

glad too hear that you found the culprit for the smell..

Quite a plausible explanation

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I found something on the internet, it states that if u bridge 2 of the diagnostic terminals it cancels out the ecu's control over timing. i've tried it using some old speaker wire and it seemed to work as he stated. the revs dropped as soon as it was bridged and i could adjust the timing more accurately. My next question would be if its safe to do it this way.

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Loki... should be able too tell you...???

All she knows is what Mick and I have taught her.

That leak is either the valve cover seal or the distributor o-ring, most likely the o-ring as you have been moving the distributor and it's right above the gearbox.

Bridging those terminals sets the timing back to base timing, it is designed to allow easier adjustment without the ECU altering it. Best left to professionals unless you are confident with a timing light.

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Quite possible, there doesnt seem to be a trail of oil under the distributor, or anywhere else in the engine bay. i will clean the area and see how quickly it comes back. the mechanic i spoke to said it was a very slow leak and shouldnt pose a problem for a while. Sorry if i seem noobish guys, im just used to working on carby engines and dont know much about alot of these electrical systems. thanks heaps for the advice :)

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Good JOb Trent... LOL...

{didnt even think of you... .. }

just for the info is it the same terminal as the 3SGE in 4th gen's?

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