ZZE123R 2nd to 3rd gear

[dannydn]

Hi all,

First post and first car!

I recently bought a 2005 Sportivo - 71,000kms, regularly serviced, mechanically pretty good

However, I noticed that there's a bit of a crunch/grind when I change from second to third gear

I've been reading around and it seems that a lot of people have this issue? Although it can be easily solved (short term) by changing the gearbox oil...

Just wanted to confirm this is a good first step: is 75W-90 rcommended and do I also add G70 or will that be counterproductive?

[Kenshin X]

try to change the gearbox fluid without the additive first. If still not fix the crunch add the additive

[123R-Prozak]

There is so many posts regarding this issue.. Try also adjusting your clutch.. Move the friction point higher..

Does this only accur in lift? New clutch !

Ok Kenshin have your input now ... 😏

[Kenshin X]

hahahahahaha

[R0nsta]

Any other type of gearboxes that can replace the sticky stock factory gearbox? 

[123R-Prozak]

3 minutes ago, R0nsta said:

Any other type of gearboxes that can replace the sticky stock factory gearbox? 

What’s sticking? What’s your issue ? 

[R0nsta]

Switching from 1st gear at around 5k rpm to 2nd gear. 

It has a brass button clutch which was only put in last year.  I rarely ever take 1st gear no higher than 6500rpm before changing & I rarely drive the car hard as its zippy as it is sitting at 174kw which is a bit more than stock factory  

 

[123R-Prozak]

1. how do you get that power? 
2. why do you have this clutch? Just use a hd clutch. Button is for race cars with no friction point. 
3. maybe your 2nd syncro is gone 

[R0nsta]

Sorry for the late reply. 

2nd gear syncros def ain't gone as the gearbox was replaced mid last year. I don't have any gears crunching either even on high rev. 

There is a friction point on the brass button clutch but you can't really feel it & it depends on how its set. Some cars I've driven had hard ones & some not as hard also

[R0nsta]

@123R-Prozak

Forgot to answer your number one question champ.

 

Nothing special man

Ported CES racing headers

CES Racing CAI with k&n pod filter which sits behind the left fog light which starts whistling when it gets to 4300k rpm mark & gets a lil louder as it gets higher & more noticeable when lift kicks in at 6k rpm

Not sure but I believe the previous owner did some head work on the engine also ey

 

 

[Squalled]

14 hours ago, R0nsta said:

@123R-Prozak

Forgot to answer your number one question champ.

 

Nothing special man

Ported CES racing headers

CES Racing CAI with k&n pod filter which sits behind the left fog light which starts whistling when it gets to 4300k rpm mark & gets a lil louder as it gets higher & more noticeable when lift kicks in at 6k rpm

Not sure but I believe the previous owner did some head work on the engine also ey

 

 

Only way to find out is if you take the valve cover off and inspect the head. With those mods, I'm highly doubtful it would make 174kw atw let alone N/A. Most I've seen one make on a high reading dyno was 147kw and that was with MWR Stage 3 cams, upgraded valves and valve springs along with all the supporting mods around it along with an aftermarket ECU and tune.

Edited March 7, 2021 by Squalled