Jump to content

U660e transmission service


matt36415
 Share

Recommended Posts

I know that there are other posts about various aspects of this transmission, I thought I would add my experiences and pics when I do the service. Just as a bit of context, I used to be a mechanic at a Holden dealership and I mainly did transmission work, most often complete rebuilds which from a mechanic point of view are easier than most of the little problems that happen with them, just pull it out, strip everything, clean it (this is actually the biggest time consumer) and rebuild with the new parts ( mainly o rings and friction plates / clutch packs).

Bought WS fluid from Toyota 4 litres $71. It only comes in 4litres. It is a metal container which is unusual. I may buy another one as the trans takes about 6.5litres but that would bring the job to $203 & the inline filter I am going to add. I suppose if I am putting in the effort to clean the pan and do the fluid change I t is worth the money for the extra fluid. Car is at 65 000km, will be at about 70 000 when i get to it after a family Christmas holiday.

Filter and gasket - ebay. $61.35 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130978591438?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649. Seller is carsrusaustralia

I am also going to add a magnefine inline filter on the return line from the radiator. (just needs extra length of high pressure fuel hose, the filter and 2 hose clamps.

This. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5th-6th-generation-2002-2006-2007-2011/501098-07-se-v6-u660e-transmission-pan-drop-filter-change.html

is the USA Camry v6, same car just sold as a V6 Camry. The description in this thread is really helpful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • 2 weeks later...

Filter and gasket came today. See pics. The filter is not a strainer like in my 1998 camry and most other cars. It looks the same pleated material as the air filter except it is yellow. The area of folded filter is approx 15x5 cm, far more if it was unfolded though.

post-19490-0-29575300-1388704009_thumb.j

post-19490-0-57545600-1388704056_thumb.j

post-19490-0-51160400-1388704101_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After removing the wheel, wheel arch lining, half the front under body tray and one extra plastic shield I had a pile of dirt and leaves that would have filled a 5 litre tub. It was many times more crap than I have seen in any other cars wheel arch.

The oil drain plug is an odd size, a6mm allen key was too large, 5mm much too small and the non metric ones didnt fit properly either.

So I just loosened the sump bolts slightly to let some oil drip out before taking it off fully. In the pictures there is one with a jack holding up the passenger side transmission mount. Without loosening this and raising up the transmission slightly it is impossible to get to one of the sump bolts.

post-19490-0-09475900-1388907831_thumb.j

post-19490-0-77134000-1388907886_thumb.j

post-19490-0-90207400-1388907950_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I measured all the fluid that came out 2.7 litres, so that is the amount I will funnel into the fill hole. The fluid did not smell burnt but it was not a clean clear red like the new fluid. It was darker. Some of the above photos show the two magnets in the pan, they have a thick coating of metallic sludge but the rest of the pan was quite clean except for two circles of metallic sludge where I had put strong magnets on the outside of the pan 55 000km ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


That interesting that a 5mm allen key didn't quite satisfy. I used a 5mm 1/2 inch drive hex bit and it fit quite snug. The same hex bit then also removes the red overflow tube on the inside. I'll have the say the most annoying part of the entire service was trying to get the one bolt that was blocked by the subframe. Luckily a ratcheting spanner did the trick. Although I had to remove the spanner and manually click it 2 times each time to give it enough to turn. But in the end I got it.

dm-1138891743813.png

dm-6138891750314.png

My magnets did have a little more metallic filings on it though. My car however was at 189,000km at the time of the service. Fluid however was kind of how you mentioned, didn't smell burnt, but darker.

dm-10138891751813.png

dm-1213889175504.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That pump you have for the fluid looks helpful, is that a Toyota tool?

Just a Tom Thumb. Neat way to pump fluid in odd places.

http://www.stm.net.au/pumps/hand_pumps/1_litre_oil_pump/ca586-1_litre_tom_thumb_oil_pump

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Tom-Thumb-Pump-Utility-1-Litre.aspx?pid=284708

CA586.jpg

Edited by Tard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Having done this and now driven for a while, several hundred km, I think all the fuss about destroying the transmission by replacing some fluid... is rubbish. Its just not that hard

I've covered more than a couple of thousand km's and all seems about the same... except for the driveshafts which were replaced at the same time. I think my aftermarket shafts have a balance issue or the dampers that were attached to the original ones actually made a difference.

If I recall correctly, the cases I heard of transmissions failing were serviced by other mechanics. At the time, the transmission service was relatively new. As the Aurion does have a specific way of getting the fluid level right, it could have been possible that the procedure was never performed correctly or a non-WS fluid used.

Edited by Tard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hey guys,

You seem knowledgable in this area.

I have clunky gear changes (mainly when engine is cold), also 3rd gear holds before changing to 4th, tranmission fluid was changed at 78000k (about 3000kms ago) but it is still clunky and 3rd still holds. Can you please help me to find the mouning bolts, I want to check if the problem is these are loose.

Any other things I should check?

After that its a TCM change.

Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may be worth checking that WS fluid was used, from looking at the USA site 'toyota Nation', it looks like the fluid isnt ok to mix with other brands, look at the Nulon site, they say their fully synthetic atf is ok to use but shouldnt be mixed with toyota fluid.

Second, your symptoms sound like what I would expect if the fluid level was too low.

If the transmission pan was removed to clean then the mechanic had to loosen off or remove one of the transmission mount bolts. This may not have been replaced or tightened.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could also try to reset the transission ECU to see if relearning from the start helps.

Apparently disconnecting the battery then holding the brake pedal down for 30 seconds up to a minute (to drain any remaining charge in the circuits) will perform a reset, so then it'll start learning your driving style again. Otherwise could ask Toyota nicely if they'd hook up one of their computers to reset it that way.

Hey guys,

You seem knowledgable in this area.

I have clunky gear changes (mainly when engine is cold), also 3rd gear holds before changing to 4th, tranmission fluid was changed at 78000k (about 3000kms ago) but it is still clunky and 3rd still holds. Can you please help me to find the mouning bolts, I want to check if the problem is these are loose.

Any other things I should check?

After that its a TCM change.

Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I'll check these.

I know the Toyota fluid was used, they flushed through and didn't remove any parts for cleaning.

Possibly it was low before the change and they just replaced the same amount of fluid that came out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE - I tightened up the top mount bolt less than an 1/8th turn, today the gear changes seem less sloppy, 3rd isn't holding as long but may still be holding slightly.

I've noticed when going up hill the car doesn't change down gears quite so often either (before the car would change down, pick up speed, then change up, lose a bit of speen and change down again, a lot)

I'll be driving for about 1 1/2 hours tonight so I'll have a better idea later.

I wanted to eliminate the options one by one so didn't reset the ECU.

EDIT - Gear changes are definitely smoother and quicker, 3rd into 4th gear still holds but not as long.

Edited by shittywok
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

My filter is not a magenfine one, I will take a pic tomorrow but its the size of a Z9 oil filter- giant compared to the magnefine ones and mine has no magnet. Its a hydraulic fluid filter- its a spin on one just like the canister oil fliters on most other cars.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 6

      Kluger Sat Nav DVD Map File

    2. 3

      Kluger vs Prado vs RAV4

    3. 0

      2005 Rav4 2 door cruiser

    4. 34

      Coolant Leak 2008 Aurion

    5. 2

      Looking for a hard to find part

    6. 74

      White Pearl Paint cracking & peeling on a Prado

    7. 74

      White Pearl Paint cracking & peeling on a Prado

    8. 34

      Coolant Leak 2008 Aurion

    9. 34

      Coolant Leak 2008 Aurion

Toyota Owners Club AU © 2020 | This Website has no association with Toyota (AU) or Toyota Motor Corporation. | Cookies | Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership