Clutch Adjustment Service Bulletin

[RSA_Platinum]

Hey peeps, I’ve recently been having problems with my Sportivo cruching into 2nd gear and thought I’d try the clutch adjustment procedure. I’ve looked high and low and can’t find the specific document about the bulletin released about this wayyy back. Could anyone help a brother out with my issue and post it bulletin please (or if you had another solution for the crunch)?

Thanks

[jeffy]

rebuild syncros ?

[RSA_Platinum]

Yeah, I think I’m gonna be going down that road soon but I thought I’d try a quick diy thing first 

[Squalled]

Hey mate, this is what you're looking for.

It's a few posts in for the full picture but that's what needs to be done. If you're still having issues with getting into 2nd gear in high revs or downshifting as well, it's likely your synchro's are gone. You can try and prolong it by changing the gearbox oil and using Nulon smooth shift which essentially thickens the oil. It only prolong the needs to do repairs though since the damage has been done.

Best of luck!

Edited October 19, 2018 by Squalled

[RSA_Platinum]

Ahh that’s what I was looking for, cheers. I’ll give it a go soon but if I’m gonna keep this car long I’m gonna have to do the rebuild later down the line anyways. What do y’all reckon is a fair price for a rebuild like this? I got quoted $1500 excluding gears, synchros etc. 

 

Also planning on changing the gear oil soon with the Motul Gear 500 so I’m pretty excited to feel how much different it’ll be.

[Squalled]

10 hours ago, RSA_Platinum said:

Ahh that’s what I was looking for, cheers. I’ll give it a go soon but if I’m gonna keep this car long I’m gonna have to do the rebuild later down the line anyways. What do y’all reckon is a fair price for a rebuild like this? I got quoted $1500 excluding gears, synchros etc. 

 

Also planning on changing the gear oil soon with the Motul Gear 500 so I’m pretty excited to feel how much different it’ll be.

For $1500, what was actually included? I rebuilt mine over a year ago now an it was around $1800 for labour, all seals, synchros 2nd to 4th and all bearings using genuine Toyota parts. They also installed my Speed Source extended pushrod during the time which took about 4 days and most of the time was spent waiting for parts from Toyota in Melbourne.

Most places seem to charge about $2000 and up for the same sort of job which I think is a bit too much. I've never had any major issues with mine since the rebuild.

Edited October 21, 2018 by Squalled

[RSA_Platinum]

Well, this guy said that a normal gearbox overhaul would be "$1550 plus hard parts if needed, that means gears/synchos/shafts - whatever's not in a rebuild kit." so I'm assuming that's like seals, bushings etc. I'm still gonna look around and see what other shops can do. I figured that $1600 - $1900 would be a pretty fair range for this job, but I'm not a mechanic so what do I know : |

[Squalled]

15 hours ago, RSA_Platinum said:

Well, this guy said that a normal gearbox overhaul would be "$1550 plus hard parts if needed, that means gears/synchos/shafts - whatever's not in a rebuild kit." so I'm assuming that's like seals, bushings etc. I'm still gonna look around and see what other shops can do. I figured that $1600 - $1900 would be a pretty fair range for this job, but I'm not a mechanic so what do I know : |

Well, if crunches and still goes into gear after it's definitely your synchros. If the gears are worn/broken you usually won't be able to get it in either. Synchros are fairly cheap from Toyota so the cost shouldn't be too much more from the quoted price for the extra parts.

Gearbox rebuilds are generally fairly tedious and I don't think anyone likes doing them 😂

[Hiro]

2 hours ago, Squalled said:

Well, if crunches and still goes into gear after it's definitely your synchros. If the gears are worn/broken you usually won't be able to get it in either. Synchros are fairly cheap from Toyota so the cost shouldn't be too much more from the quoted price for the extra parts.

Gearbox rebuilds are generally fairly tedious and I don't think anyone likes doing them 😂

Gears are in constant mesh (except for reverse), if you can't get it in to a gear then you're looking at a broken linkage, selector fork or collar.  A properly broken gear (which is not a small thing) would likely grenade the whole box.

[Squalled]

1 hour ago, Hiro said:

Gears are in constant mesh (except for reverse), if you can't get it in to a gear then you're looking at a broken linkage, selector fork or collar.  A properly broken gear (which is not a small thing) would likely grenade the whole box.

I had a mate of mine with a worn 2nd gear (not broken but pretty warn down) and he was having sorts of issues getting in into gear sometimes.

[Hiro]

1 hour ago, Squalled said:

I had a mate of mine with a worn 2nd gear (not broken but pretty warn down) and he was having sorts of issues getting in into gear sometimes.

What actually was worn though?  As I said, in modern manual transmissions all forward gears are always engaged with each other, when you "select" a gear what you are actually doing is locking that gear on to the output shaft via dogs (the synchromesh is used to get the dogs spinning at the same speed before they engage).  It is wear on the linkages, synchromesh and collars/dogs that impacts "selecting" a gear

[Squalled]

1 hour ago, Hiro said:

What actually was worn though?  As I said, in modern manual transmissions all forward gears are always engaged with each other, when you "select" a gear what you are actually doing is locking that gear on to the output shaft via dogs (the synchromesh is used to get the dogs spinning at the same speed before they engage).  It is wear on the linkages, synchromesh and collars/dogs that impacts "selecting" a gear

The synchro's were gone but it looked like there was some wear on the gear itself. I did get photo's but I can't recall exactly else went wrong with his gears and what not.

I mean, I rebuilt my transmission around the same time and my gears look a bit different to his and I was told that they were in good condition and didn't need replacing. 

[RSA_Platinum]

7 hours ago, Hiro said:

Gears are in constant mesh (except for reverse), if you can't get it in to a gear then you're looking at a broken linkage, selector fork or collar.  A properly broken gear (which is not a small thing) would likely grenade the whole box.

I know those are words but all I see are dollar signs and up arrows. It almost always goes into gear, the only occasions it hasn’t is when I was being a bit....overzealous with my driving and asking a bit much of the transmission. Hopefully the gears are okay.

Squalled, how many kms had your car done when it got the transmission rebuilt?

[Squalled]

12 hours ago, RSA_Platinum said:

I know those are words but all I see are dollar signs and up arrows. It almost always goes into gear, the only occasions it hasn’t is when I was being a bit....overzealous with my driving and asking a bit much of the transmission. Hopefully the gears are okay.

Squalled, how many kms had your car done when it got the transmission rebuilt?

As long as you aren't forcing it the gears should be fine.

Mine had around 183000 I think when I rebuilt it. 2nd was completely useless when downshifting above 15km/h, 3rd crunched when cold and sometimes warm and 4th was blocking out every now and then and would crunch when cold. My gearbox saw a hard life before me and sadly the adjustment was never done prior to my ownership. Most of these problems are caused by the clutch being out of adjustment not allowing full engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

There are products you can purchase to help with this but the best options are to re-adjust the clutch master and also invest in the Speed Source Extended push rod to make it will fully engage and disengage.