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Hiro's AE102


Hiro

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On 1/22/2019 at 11:29 AM, Squalled said:

May I recommend the Exedy range of clutches. I've driven both the normal and HD, I run the HD myself and I find the pedal feel to be soft and the bite at engagement to be pretty strong. Most of the Corolla guys run either of these and as long as the master cylinder has the right adjustment you will never have any synchro issues. I did add the extended push rod later on just for piece of mind.

Haven't decided exactly which way I'll go re. clutch and flywheel yet, Exedy HD is always the default backup for me but I do know a few of the 4A guys have had trouble with the cushion springs breaking on them (4A, 7A and 2ZZ use the exact same friction disc).  Flywheel will almost certainly be Fidanza but am open to other options.

Part of me just wants to throw all-OEM stuff back in until I get the thing up and running (why waste money if I'm going to have problems etc), but another part of me wants to take every opportunity now to do mods that will save a lot of time and effort down the track (cams are another big-ticket item that I'm tossing up whether to go for now or wait until new ECU in the future)

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34 minutes ago, Hiro said:

Haven't decided exactly which way I'll go re. clutch and flywheel yet, Exedy HD is always the default backup for me but I do know a few of the 4A guys have had trouble with the cushion springs breaking on them (4A, 7A and 2ZZ use the exact same friction disc).  Flywheel will almost certainly be Fidanza but am open to other options.

Part of me just wants to through all-OEM stuff back in until I get the thing up and running (why waste money if I'm going to have problems etc), but another part of me wants to take every opportunity now to do mods that will save a lot of time and effort down the track (cams are another big-ticket item that I'm tossing up whether to go for now or wait until new ECU in the future)

That's interesting, never heard similar cases with the 2ZZ ones. I've had mine for around 60000 kms now and it still bites and drives really nice. I've also felt an Exedy HD on another Sportivo which felt quite heavy which was interesting also. I'd definitely say Fidanza for the flywheel, have heard only good things about them. I know Extreme make a lightweight flywheel but unsure of anyone who runs them.

It's pretty tough decision, the only input I have is cams are totally worth while. During my Melbourne road trip, I got to go for a ride in cammed Sportivo (MWR Stage 2). It was running a whole heap of goodies with it too (4-1 headers, 2.5" exhaust, V-Manage etc.) and was a lot lighter with no back seat base, no body kit and light weight rims. It now has more mods since I went in it but it was an entirely different car.

It felt strong from low end and pulled all the way through to red line. Like his 3rd felt like my 2nd pretty much. It's hard to describe unless you for a ride in one but it was honestly nuts.

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Big killer for me cams-wise is that I'm not planning on going aftermarket ECU for a while (it's going to be enough hassle getting the factory ECU wired up first, especially since the Celica ECU is in the engine-bay)

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50 minutes ago, Hiro said:

Big killer for me cams-wise is that I'm not planning on going aftermarket ECU for a while (it's going to be enough hassle getting the factory ECU wired up first, especially since the Celica ECU is in the engine-bay)

Yeah not to mention the current exchange rate which doesn't help too. You can run the cams on a V-Manage piggy back with no issues, they seem to go for around $200-$300 used these days. But than again, it's already going to be a big job like you said to get it all working with the stock ECU.

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On 1/24/2019 at 5:22 PM, Squalled said:

Yeah not to mention the current exchange rate which doesn't help too. You can run the cams on a V-Manage piggy back with no issues, they seem to go for around $200-$300 used these days. But than again, it's already going to be a big job like you said to get it all working with the stock ECU.

Probably just wait and go full aftermarket in the long run, MWR reckon you can still run a Stage 2 cam (MWR or Piper) on a stock ECU but you just won't get the full benefit

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On 1/26/2019 at 9:07 PM, Hiro said:

Probably just wait and go full aftermarket in the long run, MWR reckon you can still run a Stage 2 cam (MWR or Piper) on a stock ECU but you just won't get the full benefit

The car I went with cams was running MWR stage 2's which seem to be the best all round, compared to stage 3 which seems to benefit top end more. You can definitely run them on stock ECU no issues but like you said won't get the full benefit. I have seen videos of some on stock ECU with cams and they still go quite well, and that's in the heavier ZZE chassis compared to the AE10x chassis.

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1 hour ago, Squalled said:

 I have seen videos of some on stock ECU with cams and they still go quite well, and that's in the heavier ZZE chassis compared to the AE10x chassis.

That's where a big chunk of my gains are going to come from, AE102 is ~170kg lighter than a Sportivo and 60kg lighter than a Celica, plus I'm almost certain to lose some more weight going to the 2ZZ as the 7A still has a cast-iron block.

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  • 6 months later...

So that's how things stood at the start of this year.....basically nothing has happened since. Still got to pull the shifter cables out of the Celica shell (which requires disassembling most of the dash) along with some of the body harness (for the engine bay fuse box) but in the meantime I've started hoarding parts for the eventual conversion.


First things first - some tools, and something to put them in. Been wanting a decent roll-cab for ages but never really had enough to fill it, but eventually got sick of all my stuff being scattered between two separate toolboxes, a builders-bag, and the floor, so I snagged one of the limited edition Mighty Car Mods roll-cab set when they went on special. Knew we bought a hatch for a reason...

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Then decided it was time to make the swap from Ryobi One+ to Milwaukee, much better tools as well as being smaller (with inline batteries too, much better for engine-bay/undercar work). Got a 1/2" power ratchet, 1/2" stumpy impact wrench and a 13mm hammer drill (for house stuff).  Also just picked up a 1/4" hex-chuck impact driver for the small stuff (not pictured)

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Then came the parts hoarding. First up was a plug-n-play Adaptronic E440d ECU modified by Kaizen Garage, which Jason Purcell had running in his AE82 2ZZ race car. This will allow be to do away with the factory immobiliser, run a bigger intake without the factory MAF (has onboard MAP sensor), as well as tweak lift and redline rpms to my liking (not to mention being able to support bigger cams).

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Next was a bunch of little bits and pieces to try and spark my motivation again - a 6-speed TRD ball shift knob (from the Tacoma/FJ Cruiser), height perfectly suits the MWR short shifter. Also got the MWR underside WP and ALT pulleys for some extra bling, a 77° TRD thermostat, Speed Source extended slave cylinder pushrod, and an MWR MR2 2ZZ engine mount adaptor. Along with that I also sourced the RH engine mount from a 4ZZ Euro ZZE111, so between that and the MR2 adaptor I should have something close to built-in.

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Next up will probably be clutch/flywheel, and maybe start looking at cams (but that opens Pandora's Box, because then I'll need valve springs, then might as well get new stem seals, then might as well get new valves, which means the head has to come off etc etc)

On, and the Celica shell is a bit breezy now too...

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48610017943_381e07b4e4_o.jpgby Ian Rigby, on Flickr

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Nice update Ian! Those MWR pulleys really liven up the response on the 2ZZ, luckily you didn't get the crank one as that causes some pretty major issues from what I've seen.

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3 hours ago, Squalled said:

Nice update Ian! Those MWR pulleys really liven up the response on the 2ZZ, luckily you didn't get the crank one as that causes some pretty major issues from what I've seen.

Don't think MWR offer a crank pulley anymore (apart from factory Toyota or generic aftermarket QRP), but I know better than to go for unbalanced billet crank pulleys anyway.

 

Although annoyingly just after I bought these ones one of the guys I know in America pointed out that there's a Dayco overrun decoupling alternator pulley - not really much benefit in power (since it isn't under-driven) but better response changing gears and improved belt/tensioner life since it removes the inertial effect of the alternator when lifting off.

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  • 3 months later...

Been a little while since the last update - 12 weeks/60 days and 48 flights worth of travel for work on one hand, plus my old man passed away in September on the other has meant that this year has basically been a write-off as far as car updates is concerned, but that didn't hamper much the accrual of parts.  Latest haul below:

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20191224_160022 by Ian Rigby, on Flickr

Fidanza lightweight flywheel (3.4kg vs 5.9kg factory)
Xtreme HD clutch
ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts (the only Toyota bolts that ARP list for the pressure plate are to suit a Hilux and cost a fortune for no reason, however Skyline ones are dirt-cheap by comparison and same thread, just a little longer)
New VVT and VVL solenoids and OCV filters
Full VRS kit

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Just bought a second-hand set of Yellowspeeds (no, not Godspeed or maXpeedingrods or any other eBay crap), was never really certain that I wanted to go to coilovers but they came up at an absolute bargain so couldn't resist.

Interestingly they appear to be 7/4kg F/R which is a little different from the usual 6/4kg and 8/6kg sets out there

Will pull them apart and give everything a clean and oil (the threads look like they could use it) and maybe a bit of paint if I can be ****d).

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by Ian Rigby, on Flickr

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  • 3 weeks later...

So not technically a 102 update but it is part of the conversion as well as getting the Celica shell out of the garage

I present to you every single wire, plug and fuse box in a ZZT231 Celica, bar the engine harness (still attached to the engine) and a handful of pigtails related to the cruise system which I sold.  Don't really need 99% of it but it's always handy to have random plugs and chunks of auto-grade loom around.

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Stocked up on the rest of the brake overhaul hardware (slide pins, banjos, pad clips and bleed nipples), plus primer and paint....now to decide on the colour, matte black or silver? Also ordered a set of Redstuffs, a week off over Easter plus working from home in the meantime should allow me a good chance to knock over the upgrade before the car comes off the road for the engine swap
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Painted the Superstrut twin-piston calipers, was torn between matte black and silver but eventually went with the black (got both cans as @theguitarhero4 wanted silver regardless)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I managed to just avoid having this thing in my garage for 2 years.....by one freaking day. I really do move slowly sometimes...

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One pair of freshly overhauled twin-piston Superstrut brake calipers and Celica pad carriers done and dusted. Was pretty nerveracking installing the dust seal circlip for the first time but got the hang of it by the end. One of the slide pin boots does have a tiny split in it but I figured I'd do more damage removing and replacing it with another fresh one, especially since I don't have a bench vice.
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  • 3 weeks later...

So, time for another little catch-up - time for SuperStrut brake fitment (just in time for it to get de-registered and taken off the road for the 2ZZ conversion, natch)

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Calipers and carriers vapour-blasted ready for overhaul (second set for @theguitarhero4)

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Primed

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Top-coated (I went matte-black, Andrew went silver)

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Interestingly when I got my wheel bearings replaced back in 2017 the new hubs came without the 55mm step in them.....so the AE111 rotors I sourced would no longer fit properly (also meant that the new rotors I got when trying to diagnose the wheel bearings have been flopping around with a mil diameter clearance for 2 and a half years, well that explains the brake shudder...).  Good thing I still had the 54.1mm AE101 rotors as a backup

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Rotor now centred well in the pad carrier, if I wanted to use the more commonly available DBA759 Sportivo rotor I'd probably have to get another 2mm machined off the carrier and that would be a little too much for my liking

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Make sure to use the SuperStrut pad not the ST204 Celica pad (Celica pads are thicker and the caliper won't fit over them), I used DP3995C EBC Redstuffs but any pad for the later SW20 MR2s will fit (same pad as the SuperStrut Corolla)

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Caliper fitted

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And new braided lines just for bling

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And the end result

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  • 5 months later...

So, some kind of progress happened...

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There's now a big empty hole in my life....I mean my engine bay

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One 7AFE + C52 extracted as ordered

And now the install begins...

Step 1: Check Euro-spec ZZE112 timing-end mount fits. 
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It does (no mods required)

Step 2: Check C52 gearbox mounts fit Celica C60
They do (slight mod required to stiffener on top gearbox mount but could be left off)

Step 3: Check fitment of C60 in to Corolla engine bay
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It fits (just), clears subframe (although will need sump/block attached to 100% confirm), however battery tray will require some surgery to allow the front-mounted Celica shifter to work (battery will be getting relocated anyway)

Step 4: #getonthebeers
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Check

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Trial-fitted my AE102 Sprinter dash cluster the other day whilst I was starting to pull the interior out, the gunmetal dials look good (apart from the bubbles) but the lens has hazing in places and I would really like a 9k tacho for the 2ZZ so not sure if I'll stick with it (needs re-pinning anyway).

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15 hours ago, Hiro said:

Trial-fitted my AE102 Sprinter dash cluster the other day whilst I was starting to pull the interior out, the gunmetal dials look good (apart from the bubbles) but the lens has hazing in places and I would really like a 9k tacho for the 2ZZ so not sure if I'll stick with it (needs re-pinning anyway).

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The red does line up with the stock ECU lift zone, but I don't think stock lift engagement will be used for long.

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