Steven

Modified badge - BTW Ingress informs me that there is a standard fit Harrier badge out there somewhere that doesn't require modifying. No luck finding one yet though.

Just had a thought. Is the shape issue and overall thing, or just the different shape around the audio controls? Wondering whether it would work by swapping out the Lexus audio controls for the stock Aurion ones? Or maybe I should stop being such a cheapskate and buy the wheel and the airbag? There is no cheap way around it I'm afraid - even the controls are a different shape and won't fit.

if it's any consolation, you need to modify the badge to fit the rear of the car, or the grill to fit the front of the car - and we know how much your grill is worth!

internet finally let me update the below photo. Rear badge will match. Both the grill and suede though are on hold until I can get some more adhesive

Been a bit busy today, doing some work on the front grill and rear badge - also cracked and pulled out the center console to start covering it (pic shows progress so far). Not sure if I'm happy with it due to the edges been visible towards the back of the console and surrounding the pocket. I used a soldering iron to smooth the joins and seal it to the plastic however to the perfectionist me it still seems a bit sloppy.

Got some better picks, so far I've done the footwell pieces and the lower B Pillar trim pieces in suede as shown in the pics. I really makes the car feel a lot nicer and less cheap inside. After some pondering the only other bit left that I'd consider covering is the lower portions of the center console as demonstrated in the photo. I can't make my mind up either way, so I'm keen for people's opinions!

After discussing it with DJKOR we have mutually decided to cancel this EOI and close this thread. We appreciate the feedback given, both for and against such a kit and in the end we've decided against it for 2 reasons. First is that we only ever intended to provide this kit so that those keen on this mod regardless of the implications could do so without having to undertake the apparent daunting task of cutting up their ECU harness and installing semi-complex circuits. Unfortunately we feel there is too much negative opinion on various matters that whilst valid seem to indicate a hard set stance against the kit that may influence sales to the point where it isn't financially viable. Secondly, and equally as important, is the availability of parts. The idea was to have an initial run of about 10 or so "kits" whilst able to either continue production if required or pull the plug with minimal financial loss if uptake wasn't as hoped. After discussions with many suppliers it appears as though all parts would have to be custom fabricated and any OEM components involved would also attract a high price. This means any run of kits less than 100 units would result in a very high price to the consumer which is likely to place this kit in the "why bother" bin. I can't estimate that price exactly but it appears to be in excess of $500 and we simply do not have the capital to fund the development of the kit given the limited interest. Personally I thank everyone who contributed to this thread - the other threads will remain open so that any wishing to DIY can ask questions or get answers if they want to give it a go themselves.

Its about 100 miles outta town at a place we like ta call "the shack". Bring ya banjo

Swaybar was installed the other day. Also even though I SHOULD be getting it back together to go on the road I've started another little project which the hopes to make my interior a bit classier. Pic gives an idea however I havent yet decided what else will be covered.

Done - Cheers mate. Further this brings up the question - Now we know that the kit would only disable TCS and ABS, does the handbrake/footbrake method disable the VSC system in it's entirety? If so that would make this kit actually a little bit safer than any of the other methods.

I appreciate the feedback guys but please keep this thread simple and avoid trying to convince each other of the pros and cons of disabling TCS- at the end of the day we're not looking to convince people either way but to ascertain their person opinion as to whether they would or would not purchase such a kit if it were to become available. We aren't so naive to believe this kit is for everyone and depends largely on what the individual wants out of their vehicle just as with any other mod available.

Really appreciate the honest opinions guys - its exactly what we need to hear to determine the feasibility of this idea. I plan on putting together a real life example so i can gain a better idea of cost, however Daryl is right when he suggests DIY for this kit as being the best option if you're handy and confident enough

the only issue is that brake/handbrake etc sequence keeps the VSC off until you turn the car off and restart it. The main benefit of this system is that you can switch it on and off at will.

from what I understand the system would be the same or similar, but the wiring might be possibly different. For starters though just getting an Aurion kit off the ground would be the idea

As you all know DJKOR devised a means of deactivating the TCS in the Aurion without throwing any nasty error codes and both he and I have completed such a system in our own cars that works well. The current method is a bit complex and involves a fair bit of wiring and other mods but we are considering developing a plug and play "kit" that would require either none or at least minimal wiring so that others may also benefit from this idea. To this end we'd like to know how many people are interested and would buy such a kit if it were to become available. As you can imagine a fair bit would be required to make such a kit a reality so we aren't going to take the time developing it until we are sure a market for this mod actually exists. The "kit" in a nutshell would plug directly into your VSC module in the engine bay and run to our module behind the dash. The kit would use a genuine Toyota TCS switch that fits in the dash to the lower right of the steering wheel. The kit would default to leaving the TCS on every time the car was started for safety reasons. Whether you're interested or not please vote in the poll so we can at least obtain an idea of the percentage of Aurion owners who would be interested in this kit. Cheers

going to sit tonight's meet out. Currently recovering from night shift and got an early start tomorrow as well.

I will have you know I have been making a concerted effort not to swear any more :) and it shows - a whole sentence without any profanity whatsoever. I'm impressed!

think I'll have to pass, a few other things on the car are priority at the moment.

I've gotten onto the local importer of those Chinese GPS units to see whether or not he can source these plugs. As far as I see, the only specialist parts needed to turn this into a kit is the traction control plug and a direct fit switch for the dash (to keep things looking OEM). Everything else (wiring, pcb etc) wouldn't be too hard to arrange.

DJKOR is right, it is a complete myth. License plates distribution is random (generally).

Just remember when using ANY jack to always use something to protect yourself in case it fails (or the car). The one thing you (should) always have is the spare tyre! Slide it under next to the jack and at least you and the car will be safe regardless. Tis also why I recommend keeping the stock spare when upgrading to larger rims - less $$$ if in the above situation it saves you but gets buckled in the process.

Right I've rebuild my switching circuit entirely and finally sourced my problem. By itself, the switching IC provides 11v high state, 0v low state. The problem comes when I connect the transistor to the IC's output. In a nutshell, the transistor's outputs are reversed against what the data sheets said (collector is emitter and vice versa). Also found the voltage regulator was leaking some current back into the ground - removing it altogether has fixed this and I'm not concerned for the circuits safety as it was designed for automotive use. Bit peeved but at least now the circuit is working 100% whether the car is on or off and as a bonus I have a much neater PCB!

I will never again say "what else could I possibly do to the Aurion?" Not a fan of everything he's done to it but damn it's still bloody impressive

My 6v relay uses about 107mA The Transistor (2N3904) spec sheet seems to indicate it is capable enough to drive that relay once properly saturated. The IC at 12v VDD produces around 3-7mA output current. The transistor, to drive a 107mA load needs about 10mA from the IC. I can see here that I'm falling short and the transistor may not be saturating properly. I did previously try a darlington pair of 2N3904 transistors to get around this but actually found the output did funny things. Looking closely at the transistor data sheet suggests I may have actually had the transistor connected with the collector and emitter the wrong way around. How it's still been acting properly to now has got me confused as normally this would fry the transistor I would have thought. Either way I shall try it the other way around in the morning with a fresh 2N3904 and see what I get. However none of this explains, in direct contradiction to the 4013IC datasheet why I'm getting an output of a few volts in the low state directly from the chip. If I can get the output (under load) to remain high around 11v and low around 2-3v then simply changing to a 12v relay should solve my issues but again I'll see come morning. Otherwise I'll need to use the voltage comparator to remove this low state output completely (which might be a good idea to include anyway)

I imagine I'll be there a little bit early, depending how the shopping goes. We can keep ourselves entertained with witty banter, top hats and monocles.