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daniboy

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Everything posted by daniboy

  1. also the facelift has extra wires to the motor aswell, dunno what they do but ya definetely more wires, maybe a load sensor to tell the switch when to stop or something.....
  2. I think the confusion here is the fact the keyless entry on a zze122 is seperate to immobilizer, the unit under the dash is a keyless entry module, not immobilizer, an accent won't have the module from factory at all just a vacant space and plug for it in most cases. The keys don't come into it at all unless you are getting a key with intergrated button instead of just a fob which is a seperate button not on your key. The unit under the dash has" keyless entry module" written on it and is not an immobilzer, the immobilizer is built into the engine ecu on the zze122 as opposed to the camry hilux etc where it is a seperate unit that feeds to the ecu.
  3. Yes there is a way around having a master key, dibble locksmiths here in Brisbane for one example, they can do keys without a master key. They insert a new chip onto your ecu and give you the corrosponding key code, have done it on my own vehicle. There is also a programming sequence for seperate fobs, ill find it later and post it up.
  4. If you remove the matching parts from a vehicle at the wreckers fob(not key) and module there is no need for coding, trust me I have done it with mine and others zze122, if you get module only any competant locksmith can add a remote fob without the need for a master key, they don't need master keys these days, they are able to read or reprogram the security chip on the ecu if need be. in nsw millenium locksmiths are the ppl to see I believe, if you have a fob seperate to the key there is no need to even do that...
  5. i have added keyless entry to a couple of zze corollas, all you need is the keyless entry module which is located pretty much directly behind that little pocket to the right of your steering wheel, it says keyless entry module or something similar on it and has a single black wire dangling from it which is an aerial wire and a plug at one end of the module. and then the matching fob button or program a new one to it, simple plug in job. i think i even have a spare module here somewhere. ill have a look for you when im in the garage next.
  6. ahh yea you can see if the fork is cast or pressed steel easily at the bit that hangs out to the slave cylinder. ok to explain it in the easiest terms.... look at the bit where the rod from the slave cylinder goes into the fork, if you can see a bulge out the back of the fork where it locates into its a pressed steel one, if its flat and cast looking its a cast fork.... if in doubt take a photo of where you fork meets the slave cylinder and i can identify it for you. as for doing the clutch, decent job at home for an unexperienced person.... have a google of diy caldina clutch replacement and see if it looks like something you wanna do :P
  7. bump for a reply haha, yes yes kenshin.....
  8. Im unsure which type it runs from factory, but you can run the cast fork on a pressed fork box but not a pressed fork on a cast fork box. so in other words cast fork will do both boxes, with the exception of running the correct throwout bearing to match the fork. If yours is originally a pressed fork box you will just have to space your slave cylinder out slightly.Most guys swap in the cast fork due to its strength and due to the fact that it is longer ,which gives you a slightly lighter pedal in car got a few cast forks here if your in need of one.... this applies only to turbo caldina E code gearboxes not non turbo gearboxes
  9. got cash waiting ready to pickup the bonnet!
  10. sent you another pm! didnt get a reply, thanks dan
  11. its just silicon. no gasket at all
  12. the retaining studs may be different lengths but apart from that it will fit. mixed and matched a lot of hilux diffs at my old workplace. there is a 3.7 ratio available, if you want a noticeable difference in freeway revs i would go for this ratio
  13. sounds like you need a new speedo cable!
  14. ok nope got a pic of it on a car from the ebay guy and yea its off a jap runx and wont fit any aus delivered cars, unless you have a facelift and swap your headlights and bumper to jap runx ones aswell haha
  15. edited, cause i realized it has the correct mounting points it just has one snapped off in the pic
  16. ryco filters are good, it would usually come with the rubber that goes onto the fuel pump and you would use that not your original one as the ryco has a slightly longer rubber, but in saying that i cant see using the original rubber as an issue unless it was a loose fit in which case it would cause issues with petrol drainback and cause the car to not start until second kick when petrol has built up enough pressure
  17. ok so theres a little cap on the top of the filter that looks like a temporary cap but it isnt and your not supposed to remove it. you didnt take it off did you? if you did it will be your problem, if not there is a rubber that inserts up into the filter housing and seals on the end of the fuel pump, check its there also, and then on the bottom theres the little mushroom looking thing which is a pressure regulator, it also has an oring/rubber, make sure it is there too.
  18. if your vehicle was delivered form toyota as an alloy tray back it should have spacers between the door mirrors and the doors which space the mirrors out slightly. does it have these still?
  19. the first one if your a/c lines go down opposite sides of the carfrom the firewall (mostly prefacelift), the second one if your ac lines both run together from the firewall to the front of the car(mostly facelift)
  20. this might be the time to drop the bombshell that there might be a turbo awd one getting around soon haha :P
  21. i have a white one in brisbane if anyone is interested pm me
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