White Lightning

My question is this... If Toyota are doing capped price servicing, where else in the deal are they screwing the customer over / breaking even. There is no such thing "something for free"... For instance - up to 75,000kms there is really no major milestone services, they just CHECK certain things... And additionally if something has suffered from mechanical failure in that low a number of km's and its discovered at the time of servicing what's to say that there isn't an underlying agenda to simply push to convince the customer that failure is due to abuse and not honour the warranty? I believe in warranties, but I don't believe in capped price servicing. In 4 years (if you don't blow the KM's out of the water) you are really only going to have 8 services. The average "dealer service" cost for a 4 cylinder, i.e. Camry, is only $140.00, so you are really only saving $80 in the whole scheme of things on a 4 cylinder, and $240 on a 6 cylinder. At the end of the day 2 old sayings still stand - "You get what you pay for" and "If it seems too good to be true then it probably is". When selling a car giving away between $80 and $240 worth of servicing to get asses in seats and sell some cars really isn't giving much away so as attractive as it all may seem, the dealer really isn't going that far out of their way for the customer.

I'm not working Australia day... and it will probably be the last one I have off for another few years... what are we doing?!?!?!! lol... I'm keen to eat meat and get on the turps!

Plain and simple answer for all of this - and to be honest I haven't read anything after the first 3 replies because I can clear this up right here, right now... Oils, lubricants, brake fluids, etc... are perishable items. Regardless of whether the car gets driven hard or not is irrelevent... It's like opening a vacuum packed packet of food. Once the air gets to it (or heat in the case of the consumables used in a cars' engine) their is an expiry date on how long it will last and continue to operate without causing any risk of damage or excessive wear to the internal components of a cars engine. Getting this done at 15,000km intervals or 6 months (whichever comes first) is what is required under warranty as these are the conditions that these engines have been tested for to work reliably. Therefore if this is done and the engine fails in whatever way and upon inspection it is determined that abuse is not the reason for the failure, whatever component has failed will be covered under warranty. If the log book is not stamped and / or it is not able to be proven that the log book servicing has been done, depending on the nature of the warranty claim a dealership and / or motor vehicle manufacturer retain the right to decline authorized warranty repairs. They altenator you probably got away with because it was not an internal failure and rather electrical. An altenator either works or it doesn't. There is no internal moving parts that require lubricant or fluid, therefore there is no way that abuse would have resulted in this failure. Had it have been scored cylinder sleeves due to metal shavings in the sump and working their way around the engine in the oil because the oil was low and the vehicle had never had an oil change in 90,000kms, you would be pushing excrement up hill with a rake trying to get that repaired under warranty. Get the log book servicing done when they tell you to get it done or you risk voiding your warranty and damaging your car. Simple...

I'm sorry but do you want a medal or something for being defected? Is that red sticker they put across your back window like some sort of a tough sticker / tattoo or something showing the world how cool you are? Seriously, get a life! Being defected is not cool... Being defected for stupid stuff is what gives the rest of us a bad name and gets us labelled as hoons when we are actually enthusiasts... www.boostcruising.com.au <--- you may prefer this site....

Just wanted to add a picture of my ride for the current moment...

Coming from a used car salesman that works for one of Australia's No. 1 dealerships - by all means shop around, but remember as with anything, you get what you pay for. Good mechanics are going to charge a little bit more as this is what stands them out from the guys that don't do work as good as theirs. Also (and don't quote me on this), I think from memory the 90K service is a milestone service where many things need to be checked (not necessarily replaced). If you go to a dealer then you are guaranteed that they know (or should know) exactly what they are doing, because trust me when I say this, if you take it to your own personal mechanic and they miss something, when you take it back to the dealer if it all goes pear-shaped, you're going to get a big, fat, "I TOLD YOU SO" from their service department. That being said, they're labour charges are always exuberant by comparison and they will ONLY use genuine parts which will also sting you hard. My advice (and trust me - I'm a used car salesman ;) ) is get a couple of quotes from REPUTABLE, non-dealership affiliated mechanics as well and then make your choice. Just make sure that they sign off on the service in the log book and make sure you know exactly what needs to be done on the service so that the next time you take it back if they try to tell you something is wrong with something they should have checked you can hit them with, "That was supposed to be done at the last service... Why wasn't it?"... Knowledge is power my friend :)

onya Branno you poof!

Always been an epic fan of these... shame we didn't get the turboed version - even in Sportivo spec... :( I'd still contemplate buying one if my motion could be approved by the minister for war and finance (which is unlikely as I already have 2 cars) lol...

Can't speak for late model corollas... but on my AE102R I had Super Low Kings on the front and Low Kings on the rear. Stock shocks on the front were swapped out straight away as one had collapsed and the rears lasted 3 months before I had to swap them out... so the answer is not long...

TOGUE RUN ON NEBO FTMFW!!!! nah just gamin! Not raining atm so Loop looks OK

Over the years I have found that in general - if I need to use non premo petrol - 91 over E10 everytime, without fail. E10 is good but the ethanol makes it burn too quickly. You get more for your dollar but don't really save anything as it burns a little bit faster... and slightly better milage my experience... If i have to use premium fuel, 98 - 100 RON over 95 everytime... chances are you are putting it in a turbo car, or a car that you really want to look after... for 3c a litre why be cheap and shorten the life of your engine? And providing you stay off the right pedal too much you get EXCELLENT fuel economy... as bogan as this will sound - my 1987 VL Commodore I used to run on V-Power 100% octane and get approximately 750 - 800 kms out of a tank... on 95 it used to get about 600, 91 - 540kms, and E10 it used to get 450kms and run like crap... That's just my advice...

lol - clearly he is the ONLY PERSON IN THE WORLD that can sign into more than 1 forum... respect his AUTHORITAH!!!

lank1 - i can see ur dilemma here... it must be hard to get along with no light up there with ur head shoved so far up ur anus... but here's a suggestion PULL UR HEAD OUT OF UR GOD DAMN ****H0LE, OPEN UR DAMN EYES AND EITHER READ THE USERS MANUAL, PHYSICALLY REMOVE THE BULB AND LOOK FOR THE STAMP ON THE BASE, OR TAKE IT TO UR NEAREST SUPERCHEAP / AUTOBARN / REPCO!!!! I refuse to be an enabler anymore - and even more so I'd like to make clear that the internet not only breeds ugly people via internet dating for people that are too ugly to function in the real world and have to hide behind a computer screen, but also that it is breeding stupid and / or lazy people with no sense of ingenuity or common sense... Seriously - wake up to yourself!

am out - will be working and / or moving...

if u need a job when its all said and done - let me know... I can have a word to my manager...

Hey mate - nothin wrong with fords in general but I will concede that the AU in general was a pig lol... I'm a car salesman (don't distrust me based on that lol) and the price seems in the ballpark... low kms for a vehicle of that age is awesome... that being said the price is a little on the low side... I'm not saying that it is a bad car or anything - but be weary... it could be priced to sell because its been on the lot for longer than 45 days and they need it gone... or it could need some work or it could be a lemon... at that price however Andrew is 100% right... haggle and get him down if u can, and if u can't then so be it... and even though its usually a sales technique to make more money in this case i would recommend going the aftermarket warranty for that piece of mind... you may never need it and if u haggle him down enough u may be able to factor it into the cost of the vehicle - however it is definitely on the cheaper side of the ballpark so make sure you ask the right questions... Things to look at: Previous owners (and never believe the "one little old lady thing" - because as true as that may be - a lot of old ppl drive their cars once a week to do the shopping and don't maintain them based on the fact that they think it doesn't need to be done) Service History - have all of the logbook services been done and have they been done on time Vehicle interior - along with service history, the condition of the interior is also a dead giveaway as to the life of the vehicle. You can cover up and repair exterior damage but reconditioning an interior is difficult to do completely, and expensive to replace... Rego - confirm that the vehicle will come with rego. nothing worse than buying a car and coming up with deposit etc.. and then finding out after its done and dusted that you have $360+ in rego to pay in 21 days time... Tyres - What condition are the tyres in? they may be roadworthy but will they need to be replaced in the next 6 months? <-- haggling point Air Con - Not always covered by aftermarket warranty - make sure that it works and works well. If not hit the dealer up to ensure that it is. It is a standard feature of the car and as such should be working. If it isn't and they aren't willing to compromise u can either haggle them down based on this or walk away... But you get the drift - fine tooth comb that SOB and make sure everything is either 100% or will be made to 100% if u intend on purchasing...

I'll be there - depending on if i have to do an after hours test drive or not depends on what i'll be in lol...

Ronny - I have a set of stock rims if ur interested... 14x5.5 175/65/R14's... 3 near new - 1 about 60% tread... what are u offering? Branno - i don't know if its the photo but the second photo looks like u have a fair amount of poke going on there... u'd wanna be careful - if u get nicked for that ur screwed... remember ur only on ur P's and if u happen to be speeding or roll through a stop sign or anything and u get pinged for it ur gonna lose ur licence in one hit if the cops see those... u'll get a defect notice and 3 points for the wheels and then whatever else u did to get noticed... also as an EOI - might be reverting my corolla to stock and parting out my SRI and springs... $300 for the lot if ur interested Branno when / if the time comes...

wrx sti

nice work Ham... lol... i see i'm not[ the only one stepping up my game and getting into the car industry... I've just sold a couple of Aurions with balance of new car warranty on them... if they have any issues i'll recommend they come see you :P

end of the day buddy - if ur wheels are over the line - ur screwed... even the front wheels... i've seen a traffic cop when there was no red light camera or anything involved successfully flash their lights and book someone because their front wheels where over the white line... i was in the car... he said that exactly what has been said earlier... there was no good reason for not stopping at the light and not stopping in time so it was either get done for running a red light or get done for undue care and attention - take ur pick...

IMHO - first of all, they weren't always black right? Who painted them? is ur car still wet from washing or is that the paint job? If its not distorted by water and that's how it looks dry then u need to sand them back and respray them... just an opinion and its hard to tell from the photo... secondly - technically wouldn't it be an M1 Corolla? seeing as the bulk of the car is Toyota? Definately swap over the centre caps... even some generic no-name ones... don't need toyota ones unless u really want... but it does detract from it... overall the car is starting to look better - just needs more low and some other bits and pieces now... lol... if i sell mine before u start doing too much to urs i'll let u know because i have a few bits and pieces that would go alright on urs...

Apparently Dee likes Oreos.. I prefer areolas...;)

will be out tonite guys... won't stay too long probably due to having an early morning tomorrow (unlike Friday mornings previously)... BTW - i hope i don't get flamed for it and this is a shameless self plug - but if anyone knows anyone looking to buy a quality, current model, near new used car (i'm talking $18K plus) let me know tonight... i've left an EPIC first impression at work and want to keep the ball rolling... :D