joeallen

The kit had 11 parts, all sourced from Japan or US. Water pump was chinese. The belt is quiet. Original belt was in fairly decent shape. I put the wp in later as it required a lot more disassembly of the motor. The kit was from a California supplier on ebay. I hope the reply is not too late.

Probably too late to reply. But that does not appear to be a water pump problem. The WP is buried deep down low in the motor on that side. There is a large amount of work in getting that part off. You may have a cracked part where the rust is. Hard to tell exactly from the pic.

100/13=7.7 l/100 km

There probably is a metal cable with a plastic coating that runs to one of the valves that is clipped to the side of the unit. Remove the clip with a small flat blade screwdriver. The unit should then come out, then you can see what globes you need.

I changed my struts all around recently and put KYBs on the Camry. Same year as above. The kybs come from the USA. The Touring has stiffer struts all around. I also changed my timing belt 4 years ago. I have the V6 auto, 2001 Touring. Never came close to taking the radiator out. But the water pump I left out, it required removing cam sprockets to remove the pump. I ordered a timing belt kit from California for $250 delivered to my door, all parts made by reputable manufacturers. The kit has 11 parts. Priced locally the parts were $600 and I would have had to go to 4 stores around Melbourne to get the parts. Sounds like V63 ran into a slouchy mechanic.

Hello everyone. I have a Camry Touring 2001 model. Recently the antitheft alarm started going off during the night, esp. on the colder nights. The problem was the driver's side door light switch. The way we found out is this. Sit in the driver's seat and lock all the doors. Then push slightly on the door; this will set off the alarm. It happens on colder nights when dew forms a bridge between contact and wire and sends current to the horn. Replacing the door light switch solved the problem. Cost $33 from Toyota.

The code is listed in the owner's manual.

And engineers wonder why mechanics detest the bastards. The lackey who designed the K frame never had a chat with the transmission designers when the drivetrain went in the car, and the accountants said that a redesign of the K frame would add $0.11 to the cost of the car. So nothing got done. Of course, the mechanic passes on the added cost of removing several other items to get to the bolts onto the final bill, which the customer complains about then goes around in 3 years and buys the same car. My observation is that the K frame was designed this way on purpose, to get the car into the toyota service dept, rather than in someone's garage.

The mold can cause serious health problems. This problem must be fixed properly. It's possible the whole AC system needs to be dismantled and cleaned thoroughly.

I got a cd of off ebay with the factory service manual for $12.. Well worth it.

Marvelous job of engineering on this one, eh???????????? Some engineers don't talk to other engineers in the same company. That is a known fact, and not just at Toyota. Happens at all the companies. One of the major qualifications of engineers is to be anti-social and hate people who want to maintain their own cars, and make life as difficult as possible.

I have a 2001 camry mcv20 with the V6. Has 194000 km on speedo. I went to change front and rear sway bar bushes, and had a terrible time. Rear bushes were easy no problem there. I ordered bushes from Nolothane. Dealer gave me 2 packages with 2 different numbers, 42983G and 42981G. I asked which is the front. Mark looked at the numbers and realised he ordered wrong parts. So he ordered another set of the 42983Gs. I went to put 42983Gs on the front and found they would not fit the bracket. Called nolothane and they said 42981 goes on front. I went back to my dealer and he was ready to send back the 42981. The 82s are listed as for the wagon. But actually go on the front of the mcv20s. Took 20 minutes to do the rears. Took 2 hours to do the front. The 2 rear bolts for the bushes reside just 15 mm from the firewall curve. Could only use 2 types of spanners on the bolts. One small turn at a time. To get off and get bushes back on. On the front you can just unbolt the bottom bolt on the link pins. The top ball joint will allow the link to be rotated out of the way. Tools needed on front are a small 12 mm combo ring spanner, and a long ratchet 12mm ring combo. Nothing else will enable you to access the bushing bracket bolts up front. Front bushes on my WH Statesman took 15 minutes to change and were accessed from the bonnet with standard ratchet tools.

Did you get the problem fixed? And what was done to correct the problem?

The voltage regulators can also fail. They are usually bolt in assemblies in the alternator that are easily replaced.

I changed my oil & filter back in 2009 on my 01 Camry V6 and it cost me $32 for penrite dexron 3 fluid for 4 litres, plus $42 for the filter kit, which I got at Burson. So you would be looking at less than $100 for parts and your labour. Where are you getting your parts from, Murray?

I took a car to Kmart 14 years ago and they told me I needed $900 of repairs. Got the job done at Tyrepower for $250. I don't like to hear of people using distilled water in the cooling system. As the water is pure, it is in much better condition to remove elements from the motor, heads and radiator. Use ordinary tap water. And change your coolant every 50,000 km. Maybe the distilled water removed material from the pump impeller. I've seen this happen in chemical plants.

Hi Liz, would you be able to post a picture of the black box? I have a good idea of what you're on about, but a pic would be better. I also have the wiring harness left over from wrecking my VP Commodore, so it may have the part you need.

My 01 Camry mcv36 was recently given a brake fluid drain, change and bleed at Toyota in Melton. Cost me around $70. The auto trans had a fluid change at 90,000 which I did myself. Very easy to do yourself depending on your experience. Don't forget the diff which may be separate from the trans.

I'd be looking at the vacuum booster or the check valve on the booster. BTW, I recommend you take your car to a shop for bleeding ABS system. It's not really feasible for an individual. Squirt soapy water on the brake lines when the car is running in park and with the brakes applied. If you see any bubbles, you will have a leak and need to fix the leak.

Hi Bruce, I was told this about my 2001 camry. The globe and socket are one unit and costly to replace, mine was around $25. You would have to pull the control unit to see for sure, unless you have a good service manual. You can get them on ebay on cd for less than $20.

Beaurepairs? They do anything to take you for a ride and your money. Could also be a damaged wheel.

Ask your local toyota dealer or a body panel shop.

Could be an intake manifold gasket gone bad. Is there any oil in the coolant? Have your mechanic check compression on all cylinders. Could also be plug wires. I had a similar problem on my vp commodore. That was caused by a loose ground wire at the motor mount. This is another possibility, a bad ground which will cause the computer to malfunction. Did your mechanic actually drive the car on the highway?

I've seen this plate located to the left of the oil filter and it has 2 bolts. Can't find anything about it in my haynes manual. I used a mirror to see it. Looks like a welch plug but it isn't. Next time I remove my filter I will have a closer look.

2001 Camry V6 owner here. I replaced my timing belt 1.5 years ago. Got a kit from California on ebay delivered to my door for $240. Had 11 parts. 3 seals, belt, water pump, bearings, pulleys. I replaced all but the water pump. For me to do the WP would have required much more disassembly of the motor than I wanted to. The parts here would have cost >700, and I get trade prices at toyota. The kit I got had jap and US parts except the water pump. The ebay store was volkstoy motorsports. When was your water pump replaced last?