SILVABULLIT

They set me back about $1300 and I thought that they would be a complete strut assembly, looks like i need to do some cutting and drilling on the existing housing to get them on. Thai I am sorry mate I got told they were a complete assembly and NOT an insert. I checked it twice to make sure and got the same response both times. Hope this isn't a hassle for you. They do look good!!

gee you must be computer illiterate. If I can work it out then it tells me you need some PC lol......

Prolly count me out this week. after all the sooks and pikers did a no show last week for a mountain cruise DHc, Nate and myslef went for a tour of the mountains in a Merc Kompressor wagon with DHC at the wheel Ever so comfortable!!

the bars to make the chassis stiffer will certainly cause road bumps and dimps to transfer more through the car because it is stiffer. So yes they do their job but do you need them to drive on the street if you aren't hitting the track every other day?? My answer is no. Spend your money on something worthwhile. PS - Hi JC... go the Maroons!!

Please post in the birthday thread for birthdays.

CES COLD AIR INTAKE(SPECIFY 1ZZ WITH THROTTLE CABLE OR DRIVE BY WIRE or 2ZZ)browny 1ZZ (country NSW) Is your 1ZZ drive by wire throttle set up?? Please reply here. CES HEADERS FOR 2ZZ ONLY kolourhero (Melb) Technoman where are you located?? VuT3k (Perth) CES CATBACK EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH STAINLESS FLANGES & SINGLE TIP(SPECIFY 1ZZ OR 2ZZ & TWIN TIP OPTION) Insyderz - 2ZZ Location?? Sinan - 2ZZ Location?? Technoman - 2ZZ Location?? Levinboy - 1ZZ (Twin tips) Location?? Browny 1ZZ (country NSW) CES PACKAGE DEAL (CAI,HEADERS,CATBACK FOR 2ZZ ONLY) GUYS/GIRLS DISCOUNTS WILL BE ORGANISED ONLY ON ITEMS WHERE THERE IS 5 OR MORE ITEMS WANTED.

guys sorry for the delay have been busy with a heap of other stuff health wise atm. will be contacting CES tomorrow to find out some info for you. thanks for being patient.

Just put a heavier sway on the rear and see if you like it. The chassis braces are for serious track work and not really designed for on road use.

Just make sure they fit a RHD!!

You should have one VSV hooked up!! the one that is on the lid of the airbox from memory is to be hooked up and goes on the mount that swings off the strut tower for the TRD CAI and CES CAI has a bracket that comes with CAI for it to mount on to as well.

Welcome to TOCAU. Hope you enjoy your stay!!

Please post in the right section. Moving to member's rides section.....

Considering the majority of your car's use is general commuting on public roads I wouldn't bother with any of that underbody braces etc etc. That is really only going to be of any use for consistant track use for the serious competitor who is competiting in a championship season. Not necessary for someone like yourself who wants a fang around a track every now and then. Combined with the cusco's I'd add a strut brace of some sort and a heavier rear sway bar. Whiteline is a good option and isn't expensive or TRD is a lil dearer. This set up will have your car handling very nicely indeed with good turn in and will tie the back down to follow where ever the front is pointed without fuss. A lot of members here make the mistake with a FWD car by putting a heavier front sway on the front and the rear. All this does is stiffen up the front the same as the back and make the turn in even more fragile. More understeer as the front is stiff and can't keep the wheels on the ground. If you are going to put on a front sway then you MUST go one stage/level heavier in the rear. The secret to make a front wheel drive car handle is to keep the front relatively soft to a degree and keep the drive wheels on the ground at all times and harden up the rear so it simply just follows the front and doesn't do it's own thing and unsettle the front. If you get your front camber set right then turn will be sharp and precise and the rear wheels will simply follow where the front is pointed. I also would look into a slightly heavier spring rate on the rear too. Did this with putting super lows in the rear over the slightly softer lows in my car. works a treat. If you are not going to be hitting the track regularly then going stiff all round will make for an uncomfortable commmuter ride for everyday use and make things like getting into sharp angle driveways etc a hassle as you'll be lifintg front wheels and getting hung up. My car used to lift a rear wheel all the time but the fronts always remained on the ground. this topic will be moved to the suspension thread.

Spotted a hell of a lot of the smaller set I used to have. Was never much into the pirates/space stuff but more into the cars, lego town ship... always building weird and wonderfull cars.........

Guni 102kw from a stock sportivo is rather low. Especially with the colder temps you gave down there too. Stock sportivo up here in Brisneyland is around 110kw. mmmmm pondering........ Isnt that really comparing apples with oranges though.....all different dyno setups etc....shootoutmode to normal dialled in ramp mode can be upto 10 % diff etc......where it was done wasnt in a shootout mode at all......only way would be all meet on the one dyno lol......got me buggered how some stock standard ones are putting out 110 + kw......when kolorheros with CES exhaust and CAI hits 117.....but then again the ones running 110+ stock.....what settings were the dyno at etc......as theres your 10 % difference etc......its hard to know or compare....really only a comparsion between the other stivos dynoed on same day etc which today was good for... stock V CAI V CAI and CES exhaust. EG had a dyno run last friday night.....ramp mode not shootout = 105.8kw Today dyno run ramp mode not shootout = 108.9kw Both farely similar, on the night i did 105.8 ramp mode GF's brothes ute 198kw ramp mode....hit button to shootout mode gave him 218kw = 10% difference from press of button on dyno......easy to manipulate pieces of machinery.....basically show what you want. One thing it does show though is how easily some bolt on mods can make to a sportivo.....add ported headers to kolorheroes and there is your 120kw no prob cheers Mate no arguments here about the difference in Dyno's. Most of the Corolla's from this forum up here have been done on CES' dyno which is an old Bosch inertia dyno. No computer, just put the car on the rollers, accelerate and the pen plots your graph. Is Guni's car a prefacelift?? Cause the only Sportivo's I have ever seen make tha kind of power were before the ECU recall on the prefacelift's and Superdave's car which had a fault. The air diffuser in the airbox wasn't fitted properly and robbed him of quite a bit of power from memory. Most of the modifed sportivo's up here make between 110 and 125kw depending on mods. There is a huge variance between stocko's as we proved very quickly. Most stocko's run between say 107kw to as high as 115kw!! Azza's car stock as put out 112kw i think from memory on a warm day up here. Kolorhero's car is pretty much on the money for his mods with your colder climate than we have but for stocko's being low as they were does make the mind boggle a bit. Azza added a TRD CAI and CES catback and pushed 121kw on a warm spring day in shootout mode on Dyno dynamics dyno. I compared CES' dyno to a dyno dynamics dyno that i also get work done at and the difference was exactly 2kw higher on the dyno dynamics dyno. Maybe next year at the National meet in Melbourne we can have a dyno day somewhere. Be pretty interesting me thinks!!

Guni 102kw from a stock sportivo is rather low. Especially with the colder temps you gave down there too. Stock sportivo up here in Brisneyland is around 110kw. mmmmm pondering........

Doesn't the PPE header require you to modify the mid pipe section?? I think the original idea of this thread is to get opinions of what works best as a straight bolt on solution. I could be wrong but thought the PPE needed some pipework changing slightly.

Those blind idi0ts ...... Slap a TRD stick on those port polished haeders .... Let' see about that result! Maybe i should put ........ 1) Stock Headers 2) Port Polished Stock headers with TRD sticker on it! :P a lot of people will go for TRD as they are a trusted brand who only sell quility products - although i cant comment on american TRD stuff. you seem a bit disgrunteled that peeps have voted for TRD but that makes no sense. I voted for TRD but i am gonne try a modded stock first as i aint loaded! if money was no object there is no doubt i would buy the TRD one - but if money was no object i would have the high comp TRD pistons too......... in fact everything that could be replaced with TRD stuff would be. You are making my point so much clearer!! TRD make good stuff no arguments here. But most people are not reading all the info supplied about the TRD headers. They even state they work best when combined with Part no a,b,c,d,....... In other words the TRD headers are meant to be used with the whole Stroker and high comp piston kit. Nearly everyone misses this point. Dunno how prices are over there but here the CES headers on an exchange deal(give them your stock set in exchange for a ported and HPC coated set) are well under half of what you pay for a set of TRD headers and have been proven to give better performance gains not just by some members here on TOCAU but also on GEN 7 Celica forums, Matrix forums in the US and also the 9th gen corolla forum as well. Now can you see why I say the poll is useless as the people who voted for the TRD headers have never tried anything but?? And there is pages and pages of testimonies on the forums I have mentioned with factual proof that stock headers ported and polished and coated are better than nearly 2/3 of the headers avavilable on the market for the 2ZZ. There are only a few race style headers(long primary piped) that do make more gains but also require modification of the cat and mid pipe section for them to fit and they are not real cheap. I hope this info will help some members see that you do not always have to buy the global brand name stuff to get a product that not only works better but also costs a hell of a lot less.

T_Money the man with the finger on the pulse!! Please do keep us informed. Maybe this will become a reality!!! SD as for Darlington Park it was a great track and I cut quite a few laps around it as a pssenger with northy in His 1ZZ and Shao in Northy's old sportivo. Great fun and shao literally drives like there is no mercy shown on the car!!! The only worrying thing about Darlington Park was hitting the odd duck that was too slow getting out of the way and the infamous dam which MAP81 washed his car in. I'll let him tell the story.....

Dave I put the "R" in track in the title as a new tack for Brisbane could mean anything LOL. If this happens i will be very surprised as only a few K's from where they are planning this they had Darlington Park curcuit. Developers kept pushing housing estates closer and closer till some hob knobs of residents didn't want a race track near them and complained about noise(which wasn't really investigated). Helps when one of the residnets was a member of parliament and got it closed. It's now getting turned into a housing development surprise surprise. If it doesn happen it would be good as QR is just a damm boring track. they can't really do anything with Lakeside now as housing is all around it so you certainly can't make any noise. Maybe they can recreate the Lakeside layout at the possible new site at Gilberton??

hey SB i have been looking to do the final mod on my car (springs & strut) for the past few weeks. all of my driving is on the road, when i do this mod i may take it to the track on the very rare occasion (maybe twice a year). i drive mainly inner city so i decieded against coilovers becasue i wont need hight adjust and want a harder than stock but not hard as nails ride for the road. I think i remember reading somewhere that you can supply YELLOW KONI adjustable shocks for $1030 which are the full strut?..... i would then look to match that up with some lowered springs. i only want to lower it 30mm as insurance will not insure me anything lower, and im happy with that minor drop front and rear. my questions are........... can you get those shocks, and for a 30mm drop would you go with a whiteline control spring or a pedders spring? and if you can get these shocks are they a full strut replacement with no cuting or modding, and so can i just buy the struts, the springs of choice put them together and fit them myself ? (at my mates place who has a hoist) Ok the rears are a complete replacement but the front are an insert. Best way to do it is buy someone's stuffed stock front struts and put the insert into them. If you only want to go 30mm then go whiteline. Kings are 35mm and pedders are about the same. Not that an insurance company is going to pick 5mm anyway. Whiteline's are dearer than Kings so that's up to you. As for price for the Koni's they had a price rise 1st july so they may have gone up a wee bit. Maybe $20 tops. If you are serious PM me and I will find out. I can also get Whiteline springs at a way better price than retail too. JC from here has koni's and whiteline's on his Sportivo and he does the majority of his driving around town. Might do a run though the mountains occasionaly but that's about it. He loves the comfort of the ride and height isn't a problem. Send him a PM if you more info etc etc.

Good luck!! It ain't as easy as it looks..... Your comment about TRD is exactly why the poll is useless. Everyone knows the name and will buy it just because it's TRD.

Team: Ferrari Drivers: Kimi, Massa Pole: Kimi Fastest lap: Hamilton

Come one come all weather is looking pretty good!! It's not too late!!!

Guys seeing as this thread has got "chatty" and at times has gone off topic the Melbourne meet thread will now be be pinned like all the other states. I will close this thread and each meet can put in the Melbourne meet pinned thread. It should be the same location each month. If it isn't then start a new thread about it. cheers SB :)