Tony Prodigy

I doubt it will be cheap. I would figure at least a couple of hundred. If you like the trim over the electric option, I'd look into just swapping the rails. The electric option is more fiddly than you realise.

Thanks mate !

Do us a favour Krig. Next time it comes on special can you let us know ?

Well said !

Man Alive that's a huge wheel tyre combo ! How's the ride ? I'm sure the handling is top notch.

Do you really want the electric as an option or are you more interested in the nicer trim ?

I am shocked that a dealer would let it leave the yard in that condition. Take them to town mate ! Disgraceful stuff.

Yes. Good advice Ash. Looks like that car has had a hard life and would warrant a full suspension/front end inspection. Just need the O.P to give us more info on the vehicle.

No harm in trying Toyota anyway. Call them and see if they can help. Failing that, do what Trent said. It could be as simple as cleaning the electrical pin socket. I use the CRC product for electronics. If the actuator was faulty, then it wouldn't work at all. Intermittent suggests to me a dodgy contact somewhere.

Go to a wrecker and cut one off a donor car and do some minor surgery. Are you handy with a soldering iron ? Will probably cost no more than around 10 bucks. Just make sure to wrap the join with electrical tape or heat shrink to avoid moisture and possibility of a short to earth.

I doubt the wiring will be there in a "non electric" seat model car. Perhaps check with a Toyota wrecker and see if the additional seat harness is a possibility, other wise you'll need the services of an auto electrician. Let us know how you go.

Hello and welcome to the forum. A good choice of car for mum. Not only is it a nice car to drive, it will also give years of reliable operation if looked after. I suspect that's going to be your job ?? Give it a good clean and chime in if you have any questions. Cheers mate

Preferably a fully synthetic oil if you don't want the potential for sludge, AND shorter oil change intervals than the service book calls for. I do mine no later than 10k. Always 10k or less. I have zero sludge issues. Even after 10k, the used oil is still golden, slightly darker of course. As for Castrol, I only use the Castrol Edge 5w-40 in my E36 M3, nothing else. The Castrol is a little overkill, but if you don't mind paying extra, that's up to you. Remember that the Castrol product doesn't come in 6lt. The bastards make you buy 2 x 5lt so you can have your 6lt. And The Castrol rarely go on sale. My Aurion gets by very well with the Nulon 5w-30 fully synthetic. They go on special occasionally at Super S**t Auto. All you need is one 6lt container and it will fill it to the top mark on the dipstick. The book says 6.1lt. I wouldn't pay the extra 20 odd bucks for the extra 100mm. The regular price is around $67 for a 6lt. When on special they can be as cheap as $47 ! I buy 3 at least.

Did you buy that car from a dealer ? if so, take it back asap. I'm somewhat surprised that the bush would fail so prematurely on a 2011 model car. Has the car had a hard life ?

No takers ?

Ok. So you're missing the "Aurion" badges on both front guards on a 50 series Aurion. Are you the 1st owner ? If not, perhaps the previous owner may have deleted them. I have a mate who always debadges his cars. I tend not to as I like the originality of having the badges. If you are looking to put them back on, they are pretty cheap at the dealer. Around 15 or 20 bucks each. Just make sure to specify that they are for the guards as the boot badge is different.

Just wondering if anyone has the specs on the stock Aurion rotors please. I really don't want to have to remove a wheel to measure if possible. The replacement rotors have a diameter of 296mm. Thanks

I suspect Taiwan may carry more Cache than China. No offence to our Chinese brothers.

Hiro, the huge (perhaps a slight exaggeration), price difference I was referring to was between the DBA 2709E and the DBA2726E for what is essentially the same product. Why would you pay $174 if you can pay $152 for the same thing ? It's worth checking, which I did as the seller definitely won't say anything. As for the rotor height, I did see the difference and was wondering if that had any effect as I don't have the actual Toyota rotor spec.

Does anyone remember Aunger Hotwire and Kidney slot mags ? The kidney slots looked right at home on those Chargers and the Hotwires on the SLR 5000 Torana. Ah the good old days...

Yes Trent. I remember them very well from my youth. They made many aftermarket accessories. They just aren't prevalent as they used to be. 1971 was a great year by the way...

Will do Krig. Thank you Sir

Well I hope the seller can clarify this. Like I said, there are 3 rotor options. All seem to be the same product, but priced differently. This is the question .

I just received my Bendix brake pad delivery. I settled on the GCT series Bendix. The HD series is a little overkill for what I require. We don't drive our Aurion hard to warrant higher spec rotors or pads. Wow ! Ordered yesterday afternoon from nolan-australia off Ebay and accepted delivery about 10 minutes ago. How's that for service. All I need is the front rotors and I'll be in business for the full job. I'll also be flushing the fluid while I'm at it too.

Thanks Ash. I actually have been scouring Ebay and saw the one you've linked. That one appears to be the most expensive of the street series direct replacement rotor. I also found these. The specs are near identical, are from the same series, with the exception of a slight height difference. You have this one. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-DBA-En-Shield-Standard-Rotor-DBA2726E/282413870055?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Then this. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-DBA-Standard-Rotor-DBA2705/281704951193?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 If they are almost identical, why the huge price difference ? I have messaged the seller about this, and they haven't responded yet. You think it's just a marketing gimmick ?