Tony Prodigy

Hi Krigeroz, I feel your frustration. Thinking and Knowing what is causing a fault are distinctly different. Shot gunning can be costly as is time consuming. If you are having an ongoing issue such as the "high fuel consumption" I would take it Toyota or someone qualified and have the engine diagnosed with the scanner and see what fault codes it throws up.

Cool. You seem like an intelligent person so I assumed you had some background in this department. I appreciate the info you put out.

Can you ask you a leading question ? Are you a Scientist ?

Can I also add that our Aurions are optimised to use E10 so don't be alarmed to use it over 91 RON. I occasionally give it a dose of 98, not for the performance aspect, but for the high quality of fuel that is designed to "clean" the engine. Maybe that could be a plecebo too ? I Don't know.

This now makes me want to go to a dealer and test drive a sportivo. A close friend of mine has just recently purchased a Prodigy 2012 and hasn't stopped praising me for convincing him to get this over the ATX. He Hasn't stopped raving about it ..

Is there a flaw in the Sport suspension then ?? I did consider the Sportivo before my Prodigy, but was turned off by the ridiculous bodywork. I'm very Happy with the Prodigy.

Can it then be a camber issue ? Rear Toe ?? This is like pulling teeth.

So only the cars like the ZR6 and those with the optional sports suspension upgrades have the noise Issue. Very strange as the sports suspension is hardly aggressive is it not ? So The 2013 and onward Presara should then be as per normal Aurion for quietness then ? I wonder if the sports suspension is optional on Presara, and if so does this noise still emulate ?

Wow. That's hard to believe, although I don't doubt what you're saying. Have you spoken to Toyota about the issue ? Maybe it's something inherent on cars Post 2012 ?? How can this be though ? The cars are virtually all the same and built in the same manner with identical parts (model specific of course).

I can't believe all the effort and money spent to counter road noise. I can appreciate lowering a car and stiffening suspension including wheels'/ tyres can change the whole dynamic of a vehicle and road noise is just a by product of such modifications. Sometimes you can't have both. Matt36415, if you want "quiet" maybe a modified Aurion isn't for you, I don't know. How noisy is noisy ? Is it really that bad ? Everyone's interpretation of "noisy" can vary too. Did you modify the car yourself or did you purchase it this way ? ** If you modified it yourself... How was the road noise in stock form ?

Ah ok. So for Aurion, which one do you pick that is the equivalent ?

P.M received. Thank you kindly. A friend of mine just bought a 2012 Aurion Prodigy just like mine in Silver too ! His is 09/2012 and mine is 10/2012... I will share the knowledge thanks to you and everyone else here. Thank you !

Thanks for the info mate. No it doesn't bother me to do plugs or the transmission flush. I've been around muscle cars and other old school cars replacing engines, transmissions and 9 inch diffs. Thanks for the link too. Is it a reliable software ?

That really sucks Stuart. Sounds like the box is no good mate. At least it isn't a dud replacement engine. I replaced an engine on my dad's Mazda light truck years ago and was assured by the wrecker that the motor was fine. Yeah right !! After all the hard yakka removing and replacing the engine, it turned out to have a horrendous big end knock. I was ropable !! Anyway, the wrecker bloke came over to take a look and was red faced. I was given another motor, but had to do the job all over again which sucked big time. That motor is still going ok, thankfully. It's been around 12 years now, Good luck with box situation. Let us know how how get on.

Hi mark, Did you replace it yourself or did a workshop do it for you ? So it was all fine up until now. Trent has offered some good tips on what things to check. I'm unsure of your mechanical/electrical ability so please don't be offended. Sounds like the solenoid is faulty. If the car is an automatic, could it possibly be an intermittent fault on the neutral safety switch ?

If you aren't the DIY type, that's ok. If you want a nice look and can spare a little extra cash, you can have your original steel rims powder coated for cheap. The finish is incredibly strong and will last forever. Contact some powder coating companies and get a quote. If you can't take your car off the road for a week or so while doing this, you can purchase a spare set of rims cheap and have these done in the mean time then take them over to your tyre guy and have the tyres swapped, or wait till the tyres are due and put some new boots on then.

Good idea. Over pump them slightly before heading home and do the adjustment next morning. That is of course if you have a compressor and tyre inflator of your own. (which I don't have here) Thanks for the link too.

What does the full flush entail ? Are you pouring fresh fluid in while draining out slowly till fresh fluid comes out ? Like bleeding the brakes kind of thing ? Is there a post that covers the whole procedure from start to finish ? Those that I have read aren't comprehensive with bits missing or vague to some point leaving guess work or the need to ask a question.

Good advice. I've been tinkering with cars and motorcycles since my teenage years, so i have a pretty good knowledge on how to approach certain mechanical situations. This is my first Aurion and have little experience with the V6 as such. I want to get my head around all this before doing the service so I don't make a costly mistake. Once I am confident and armed with the correct info, I'll get to do it. I'll be sure to post up some pics too.

If you're mixing two different types of fluid, synthetic with non - synthetic aren't you "contaminating" by virtue of mixing ? If you are straw draining the factory fluid and then topping up with synthetic, wouldn't you be creating an issue with component degradation ? I'm no oil expert, hence the questions. Wouldn't you be better off draining the entire transmission ( If Possible) and then start using the synthetic from there on ? I totally agree with your statement. I think Toyota have pulled the wool over us in the transmission service dept.. How can they expect the fluid never be changed as it degrades just like anything else ! Are they just waiting for the transmissions to fail so we can line up at Toyota ? My car has done approx. 65 kays now and I'd like to do the straw drain, remove the pan to see if there is any kind of sludge or metal particles etc. See how it's tracking so to speak. Oh, and I would replace the filter too of course. My idea would be to do this, say on an annual basis, and just top up with the same fluid it already contains, rather than "mixing" I'f twice a year, then I'd imagine the fluid would only get cleaner and stay newer longer. Do you mean there is an over flow on the side of the transmission body or on the actual sump ? I'm still trying to work all this out, get prepared before I attack it. Can you tell me where I can get one of these gadgets ? I've checked fleabay and I'm not sure which one is suitable. Is there one specific to the 50 ?

Can I ask A dumb question here ? Why are some of you changing the transmission fluid twice yearly ? I actually had a look in the service book and it doesn't specify transmission fluid change unless there is some kind of abnormality or driven under harsh conditions. It also says roughly as a guide, that the transmission takes around 6.5LT. How are you guys putting in only around 2lt ? When should the transmission fluid be done and how do you get all the fluid out ? Another thing. If the factory fill is roughly 6.5lt and you're draining and refilling with approx. 2 or so Lt with non Toyota fluid, aren't you now cross contaminating so to speak ? You'd be better off just sticking with what Toyota have already put in wouldn't you ? Has anyone had any advice from the Techs at Toyota ?

The capacity of the A/C is well and truly adequate. That is, if you are referring to it's ability to condition the space efficiently. If the system had some tweaking, ie, regas after an issue or someone thought to add more gas to make it "colder".... then I would be suspicious. If you over the charge the system is it as bad as being under charged. I don't have the car here to check how many grams of r134a, but i'm guessing around half a kilo. I would never use the outside air function on a hot day as it does make the system work ever so harder. The amount of moisture in the air during summer is unbelievable. Keep it on recirculate and the A/C should pull down within 5 minutes or so. Toyota Air is probably the best on the market. My Aurion absolutely kills it in summer, no problem.

Yes That's correct. The idea is to use a different coloured fluid each time as this helps you see when the new stuff comes through. Good point mg85

Hey mate, just wondering why you had the A/C re gassed ? Did you have a gas leak or mechanical issues ?