Tony Prodigy

Very true Trent. Well said mate.

If you are rich enough to drive an IS-F, then 10 lt of oil would be negligible.. lol Good problem to have I guess..

The Dot 3 is what the Factory spec calls for anyway. I'm no engineer, but I will always try to follow the manufacturer spec within reason. ***Update*** I have since gone to DOT 4. DOT 3 and 4 are virtually the same except DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. Toyota have just been lazy in only staying with DOT3 to alleviate any confusion from past to future models. http://www.nbsbrakesupplies.com.au/technical-information/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluids.html

I agree totally Trent. You have to have some mechanical aptitude when you undertake servicing yourself especially when it comes to brakes, Not to scare anyone off, it's not an entirely difficult thing to bleed your brakes. You just have to be careful not to introduce air into the system. Krigeroz. Like Trent said. The use of pressure bleeders are great when you have no one to assist. Usually one person pumps the brake pedal while the other opens the bleed screw to release the fluid. ( With the clear tube attached to bleed nipple into a container of course). Do you plan to do it yourself is really the question. If you have the confidence and haven't tackled something like this, ask someone with experience to assist you or just let a professional do it.

Hey krigeroz, How did you go with that noise issue ? Were you able to nut it out yet ?

Thanks for the thread Krigeroz. You have just reminded me that i need to do this soon too. Dot 3 fluid is the specified type mate. (I'm sure you found this in your trusty handbook) I'd get two 500ml bottles and if you get through the 2nd one, at least you're being thorough and don't forget the extra travel the fluid has to go due to the ABS unit. So 2 x 500ml bottles minimum. If I get to do mine before you do, I'll post back the result. Here's a handy tool I purchased a while back to do my motorcycle. Works a treat and you don't need two people to do it either. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hand-Held-Vacuum-Pump-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Tool-Set-Car-/380980468155?hash=item58b43499bb:g:wZoAAOSwPe1T-pHE

This thread intrigues me. I don't understand any Aurion having road noise by default. My 2012 has always been quiet as a mouse, and more so after replacing the tired Bridgestone tyres to Michelin Prmiacy's. The gentleman with the new ATX, not sure what's going on there either ? Unless the workers at Toyota missed something during manufacture I can't figure it out. I do know that the 50 series does have the felt/carpet type wheel arch covers at the back and this has been known to make a difference. I also know that certain tyres can also generate and amplify road noise too. Not sure adding additional deadener is the real solution. These cars are already sound deadened enough.

I don't disagree with the full aluminium radiator thing if it makes you comfortable. Speak to a radiator specialist to get the appropriate one for your Aurion. I realise the plastic tanks on the modern radiators do have a tendency to leak after a while. I guess this can be gauged during regular maintenance checks. If it ain't broke then you have nothing to fix. If you see weepage at some point, then it's time to replace I guess. You can even purchase a spare radiator and keep it in your garage if your the one doing the servicing. I'm sure you always look under the hood regularly and If you see something that isn't right then you'd investigate further before driving off and risk breaking down wouldn't you ? The modern radiators are quite reliable and I have seen them last over 250,000 klms. You might be unlucky with some failing prematurely, yes this can also happen, but the percentage is very small. With regards to oil cooling, I think it's going too far. These cars are not hoon mobiles and are purchased by people who don't thrash their cars, so I really don't see the need, unless you thrash yours constantly.. Do you ??

Lol yes !!! Funny you mention this Hiro. When I was at the counter at my local SuperCheap store purchasing my oil, the female operator and I were on this very topic. After I had my whinge about the lack of 6lt oil options, she mentions that I am lucky because her husband has the V8 Holden which requires around 8 litres ! Ouch !!

Don't waste your time, energy or money unless you have an issue. Cooling mods aren't necessary on these cars unless you have modified the engine.

How much are the Toyota Genuine rotors ?

I agree Tony. If you can spare the extra cash, why not. I know you will use them all eventually. Just need to make it a multiple of 6 to even the spread.

I see your point. Yes. You can buy 2 x 5lt containers, but you'll pay 2 times as well. I realise you can save the remaining 4lt for the next service, for which you are bound again to purchase another 5 lt until you've exhausted the initial 2nd bottle. Then you have to start all over again and buy 2 lots up front. The Nulon comes in a 6lt. Mikhale posted a photo of the 5 litre bottle. Believe me, there is a 6 litre. See what I mean ? When it's on special like the rare times they are, you can indulge in a multi purchase without wallet damage, but when it's not on special it doesn't help. The Advantage with the Nulon product is that it is as good as the Castrol product, you get what you need and you pay much less. Why don't the oil manufacturers just start offering their products in 6lt capacities ?? Modern cars are 6 and more litres nowadays anyway. They do this on purpose to get us hooked and buy more.

I don't have any reservation on using Castrol oil or other similar types. I actually use only Castrol oil on My E36 M3 as this is the recommended oil By BMW. My main gripe is that you can't get those in a 6lt as you can the Nulon. And Nulon does provide better value for money than the nearest competitors. Castrol don't have 6lt containers, only 5lt, and for the extra 1 lt, you have to shell out an extra $20 or bucks... You're pretty much over a barrel if your engine needs 6+ litres of oil. **The GF-5 SN standard is the latest and highest standard and has yet to be superseded, so I wouldn't panic about using this oil in 2011 plus vehicles.

Mikhale and I are on the exact page on this one. I too have been using the Nulon oil and am very happy with it so far. Funnily enough, as you mentioned Mikhale, the engine does seem smoother, especially on start up. I thought I was only imagining this. I recently stocked up with a few 6lt bottles due to the recent discounting and the 6lt does get it to the top of the dipstick ( with new oil filter) despite the 6.1lt spec the manual calls for. I always replace the oil filter on each oil change, as we should. Happy days guys !!

Every 10k or less with a quality Full synthetic oil is fine

Get the "pink" SLL coolant from Toyota directly. It's around $30 for a 5 litre 50/50 premix. I wouldn't trust outsider brands for coolant. Keep it original as the factory intended. The premix is convenient for those who don't want to mix the concentrate with De mineralised water.

Hi Krigeroz. Here is the information directly from owners handbook. Page 330 Have Uploaded a replacement file no thanks to photobucket...

I'm intrigued why you mention the high fuel consumption being attributable to what sounds like a rattle. Jack the car up. take off the wheel and have a look around. The video doesn't really help. For us, it only becomes a guessing game. For a 2013 car, I seriously doubt it's something major. Could be something as silly as a loose baffle plate or similar. Lift it up and take a look and get back to us.

You can buy one from the wreckers as Trent indicated. Get a genuine part for a fraction of NEW price and better quality than aftermarket fibreglass junk. Nothing wrong with second hand parts such as this. It is going to be painted anyway right ? So in essence it will be like a new one.. If you need an OEM part number, you can also contact Toyota directly. I'm sure they won't turn your request down.

How much was the delivery on all that ?

The Square one is correct. I checked mine too. Krigeroz. That 10L Castrol oil is very cheap. Thanks for the link

Happy to oblige where I can. Thank you

The valve you're talking about, If I understand you correctly is the butterfly valve inside the A/C ducts. If these jam up, sure you will get a mix of hot and cold air or one or the other. Switching off the A/C button only isolates the compressor motor. I can understand why it does rectify itself after re starting the car. You de energize the system which can reset those other components. When you are talking about the A/C compressor, this is strictly mechanical. It's the pump inside the engine bay that pumps the R134a refrigerant to the heat exchanger (Evaporator coil) inside you cabin under the dash. If the compressor had a "sticky" valve, then it will cease to pump refrigerant. Did the mechanic do a pressure check on the systems running pressures ? This will usually determine a fault with the compressor. I'm not sure what type of compressor is in your Aurion, but most modern cars have variable displacement compressors which allows a bypass of refrigerant when it isn't needed to help reduces drag on the engine and save fuel. There is a control valve that usually fails on these types of compressors and can be fixed pretty easily without having to replace the entire unit. On the other side of things... There are two cores inside the dash. One for heat, which is governed by your cars cooling system, and one for cooling, which is governed by the A/C compressor mounted and driven by the engine. When you select full cold or close to this, the damper (butterfly valve) will close fully on the heater core side and only allow the delivery of cold air from the A/C evaporator side. Automotive A/Cs don't have reverse cycle, so it needs this kind of actuation in the ducting, to bypass either the heater core or the A/C evap. When you select a mid temperature like 23 degrees, the damper will open almost to the full position on the A/C evaporator side and very partially on the heater core side to allow the mixed air be delivered to satisfy the 23 degrees you've requested. The higher you set the temp, the more the heater damper will open. The colder you set the temp, the more the heater damper will close and call for fully open on the Evap side. So it's not a bad idea to occasionally cycle the actuator motors on both sides to stop them from "sticking" so to speak. A good reminder for everyone I reckon. I'll have to remember to do this to mine too. Cheers Tony