Tony Prodigy

Aren't Reman supposed to be the best aftermarket OE injector ? I'm surprised you have what you have. Did you reach out to the manufacturer Pete ?

As long as the engine has warranty from your wrecker, and I assume you've mentioned the washer in the sump, you should be ok. I really doubt it will have any issues. Just think someone was fumbling around replacing a leaking rocker cover gasket or something similar up there and accidently dropped it unknowingly and just think it ran for all those years after and up until it found its way to the wreckers. It was started and ran for you and all seemed ok, so I wouldn't be worried to be honest mate. Clean up the sump, new gasket and go for it.

It was probably dropped during the course of doing some head work and made it straight into the sump. If the washer has no markings on it, looks like it made no contact with any moving parts. Something like that can't circulate throughout the engine. Once it hit the bottom, there it stayed, so just remove it and move on. You did mention the engine sounded ok an it most likely is ok. If it were to grenade, it would've done so already.

How did that come about ? I wouldn't think it'd be economically viable to ship a vehicle from Australia to the UK right ? Post up some pics if you can. By the way, welcome aboard

It's just a scuff/scratch guard, that's all. If it bothers you, you can simply remove it. If it's not easy to pick it off, apply some gentle heat with a hair dryer and then try again. Failing that, incorporate the use of some dental floss instead of your nails. The heat will make it more pliable and loosen the adhesive. Clean up with isopropyl alcohol or wax and grease remover.

How so ? My Aurion has stock halogens and they are excellent for night driving. I wouldn't change just because it's popular to do so.

I usually start with Toyota spare parts dealer as a reference, then I scour Ebay for know suspects, then weigh it all up. If you have to pay a bit more that the others without there being too much difference, I opt for brand new Genuine Toyota part. If you are luckily enough, a wrecker could have a low mileage vehicle with a very decent part. That's also worked for me in the past.

Hi Gents, I finally got around to replacing the offending sensor. I'd found a supplier on Ebay who sells the exact same Denso sensor Toyota use, just without the Toyota inscriptions. For that privilege you pay an extra $100. So this one was $258 shipped. Not bad considering. Yesterday morning was looking like a fine warm start to the day, so I seized the opportunity and set up. Got my tools ready and set to work. I decided to soak the threads with brake fluid as I do know this works and didn't want to be forcing the socket wrench unnecessarily. I applied it slowly and repeatedly via a syringe and let that soak while I tried to figure out how to disconnect the electrical socket. That took some time to be honest and somehow it just gave after repeated attempts. It's really tight in that area, so removing some of the gadgets around it did help. The lead is secured to the upper radiator hose and it crossed my mind that I may need to cut that plastic clamp, but luckily I figured that it was reusable by pressing the two tabs either side and the clamp undoes. It turned out to be a ratchet clamp. Happy so far... No it was time to use the O2 sensor socket. Carefully placed it over the sensor ensuring it is straight and seated I managed to crack it off with minimal effort, much to my surprise, it came off easily enough. There was residual crud on the threads which needed cleaning. Looks like the factory anti seize did its job well. I cleaned the threads with the thread chaser tool and I was glad at this point to having purchased it. There was some resistance at first, then after repeated attempts, the tool turned buttery smooth, relieving the thread grooves of the spent anti seize. I followed this up with a few squirts of brake cleaner and a wipe over. It's now ready for the new sensor. Turns out the new sensor already comes with anti seize paste already applied to the threads. I found this out pretty quickly after removing the plastic cap they placed over the threads. I didn't pay much attention to it when I purchased it and had gone out and bought some copper anti seize in preparation. Ah well, I can use it elsewhere.. Here's the new sensor prior to installation Here's the sensor installed. Now it was time to hook up the vehicle scanner and clear the codes and test. And.... Much Success !!

That's why I suggested the blutak method because fishing sinkers are lead, hence "non ferrous" metal. I keep a packet of the stuff always cos it's one of the most handiest hack items.

Wow, that sounds nasty. I initially thought bad battery, but Ash is most likely right about the starter. Just to be sure, I assume you checked the battery health through the little window right ? Green indicates good and black is bad.

Yeah, I don't know if I'd own one long term that's for sure. My company gives us new diesel engine cars every three years or so they're always fresh and trouble trouble free for the time span we have them for. They get dealer serviced at their expense and I never have to dip into my own pocket. It's a great perk that I'm grateful for because it helps save a bit of money not having to lean on the Aurion all the time. I'm in a 2020 Colorado at the moment, which has been very good, and I suspect the next round of cars will be Hilux turbo diesels.

If it was a non ferrous item, you could just put some blutack on the end of a stick and retrieve it that way too.

WOW ! What are the chances ? So in essence that little ball bearing was probably creating an occasional short to ground. Invest in a telescopic magnetic pick up tool. That would have come in very handy on the day.

Mate, you are the voice of reason. That makes a whole lot of sense now, but gee the emissions differences certainly throws a spanner in the works.

Modern cars are pretty well built, especially now that they are full of electronics, so the car makers ensure that most, if not all the components in the engine bay, can withstand the elements otherwise they can go bad very quickly and cost too much to rectify. Air boxes have excellent seals so water is practically impossible to leak in, even when washed with a high pressure machine. When I say High pressure, it's just a generic term I use for the equipment as you don't go right up to the engine bay up close and blast it into eternity. Keep a healthy enough distance from solid components and vary the lance distance on the more sensitive items like the electrical connections and smaller vacuum lines. Try not to focus to long on any one spot. Keep the lance moving in such a way that you don't force the water around. More like sweeping, if that makes sense. The air pressure generated by the water pressure is enough to rinse everything off. I always cover the alternator as I don't want anything "wet" entering the vented sections where the windings are, especially when using chemical cleaners. I know the internal windings are lacquered and can withstand moisture/water, but it's not good practice to wet the alternator. It will last much longer if you cover it. The chemical leaching can degrade it quickly.

It'd be extreme to have to replace the whole engine due to an injector issue. I'd never entertain that idea. But hey, this is the modern era and anything is possible in this mad world we now live in.

I've never heard of coding your injectors. That is hilarious, but If that's what needs to be done, then so be it. Are the quotes you received from Toyota or did you try an independent ? I don't see what the big deal is with Toyota not wanting to do it sighting it being an import. That sounds like a whole lot of hog wash. They all come from the same factory, so what does one have to do with the other ?? I think it may be a case of sour grapes that you never took the vehicle to them in the first place, paid the extortionate amount to fix it, and so they want to punish you for it too. Just ring around mate, I'm sure there are places other than the arrogant dealerships that can do it. It's not rocket science for crying out loud. Talk to an injector specialist instead. I'm sure they have the means to fix it.

I'd say the head unit is corrupted mate. You can try the power reset, but I think it's cactus. The stock head units are rubbish to be honest. You may need to look at replacing it.

I've been swamped with work and other goings on in my life that all my Aurion and Colorado are have been neglected in the washing/detailing dept. I hope to get back on track real soon and be able to share a similar post to yours too I have to say that my biggest bug bear is "bug" removal, especially now that they've been unwashed for months means more elbow grease ! Protective coatings are virtually nil at this point and both will require an intensive decon and singe stage polish prior to applying a fresh layer.

Can't see why not. The steering controls really have nothing to do with how the boss or the steering shaft is configured, so I would safely say, yes. I cannot imagine the company retool just to accommodate steering controls. It's a ridiculous assumption.

If you really love the car, then I'd probably try and find one that's a total write off with the desired auto and swap it all over. That way you have the whole vehicle there (or what's left of it) to help guide you as to where and how everything fits. If you're not a DIY kind of guy, then it may get pretty expensive pretty fast if you have to engage a third party to oversee the whole conversion process plus search out ALL the parts required. Big Pete's option of just buying an auto Hilux may be the easiest way out.

I'm happy to be able to still excite people 🤣🤣🤣😜 I have a few other items I purchased recently which I haven't posted here yet. Better strap yourselves in to feel the G's 🤣🤣 Coming soon to a post near you 😜

G'day Gents, It's been a while since purchasing some detailing products, but the latest offerings from Waxit.com.au had me thinking I might need to add a few more bits to my war chest 😄 I was impressed by the new foam cannon, dubbed "Snow Storm" by NV Car Care and thought, what the hell. It looked to be of a quality product and as a combo deal it made sense not to. I also threw in some extra brushes from my favourite brush maker, Vikan, which are from Denmark and also some different style of wheel brushes by Economax. One is straight and the other is angled for easier reach deeper into the barrels. I did end up using the foam cannon over the weekend and was pleasantly surprised at the robust quality of the plastic body construction and its other componentry. It is much lighter than the traditional brass bodied versions and was a joy to use. The NV snow was used at a dilution ratio of 1:8 into the clear and graduated bottle. It was designed to have a wide base so it won't topple over as easily as the traditional ones tend to do. It's on special now if anyone is interested. You also get an optional attachment to suit your pressure cleaner. It comes standard with a 1/4" stainless steel male coupler and this pretty much suited my Kranzle machine set up. I opted to include a fitting for a Karcher machine as I also have of those too, so I took advantage of the free offering. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-foam-cannon-snowstorm?_pos=9&_sid=78495ce2d&_ss=r

That makes sense due to the Geographical location. Somehow I put more faith in the Japanese manufacture than the U.S. Have you ever removed the VVTi oil lines to inspect those mesh filters Ash ?

1000% correct. I find it at the height of arrogance and selfishness that owners of such vehicles equipped with lights that can burn your retinas are even allowed to be used on the roads. I understand it if you're "off road" and you need to navigate through trees etc, but for God's sake, why do you need them on well lit roads with other forms of lighting around you anyway ?? If I had a jar for every curse word I've used in that very situation, I'd be rich ! 😜